Singlespeed road bike with mudguard eyelets and clearance

luke a-d

Hello. I currently commute 21 miles each way on a Trek District belt drive singlespeed, which has a belt drive (I added drop bars). I'm getting frustrated now with constantly having to re-adjust the belt tension and wheel alignment. I'm looking to replace it with chain-driven singlespeed (freehub) that has clearance for mudguards and 25mm tyres. Any suggestions?

cycleclinic

Genesis dayone Kon Paddy wagon man the list just goes on and one. Search for single speeds in google and trawl.

luke a-d

Thanks. Both of these look good options. It did make me consider selling my cross-bike too and getting the Day One Alfine and a singlespeed rear wheel to replace them both. I'll need to buy second-hand, though, so I'll keep eyes peeled for something in good nick at the right price.

passout

I had a very cheap SE draft and currently have nice SE larger - proper cromo frame & decent spec. They have mudguard eyelets and will take full guards. The draft came with 32mm and the larger with 28mm tyres & clearance looked good on both. Great commuters, never had any bother with them.

So I've got this in 52cm: http://road.cc/content/news/45781-just-se-bikes-lager I'm 5'9'' and its slightly too big for me despite messing around with the stem, so was thinking of selling or part ex-ing it, we'll see. Shame as it has a nice ride quality.

wrayste

I have a Pearson Touche which I have been pretty happy with, although for my next commuter I'll want to have disc brakes which limits what is available significantly. So much so that I have been thinking about going fixed and then only running a front disc brake with a different fork.

I had also been interested in belt drive for ease of maintenance, but it sounds like it has been causing you more problems than worth. Do you think it has been because of the frame design or the system?

marcusjb

On-One Pompino - 28mm tyres and guards work just fine.

luke a-d

Thanks all, some good suggestions. I've reset the alignment and tension on my Trek District and on today's ride all seems well. If it gives me more grief I'll be making use of your suggestions.

wrayste - I love the belt drive when it's running smoothly. My views on belt drives as follows:
Pros:
when it's set up right, the belt is silent.
It doesn't need degreasing or lubing and won't get you covered in grease.
Nor will you need to replace a snapped chain on a wet, cold night in the middle of nowehere (as these are well-known to be the only circumstances in which chains brake)
The belt should do 10-15k miles IF it has been properly tensioned.

Cons:
Tension and alignment does change with time due to slight movement in the bolts (because you need a break in the frame to remove/replace a belt, there is usually a plate on each side to join the chainstays and seatstays which is attached via bolts, plus there is a bolt on each side to adjust the tension). Too tight and the resistance is too high and you get creaking. To low and you can damage the belt under heavy load (e.g. when climbing). That said I do a lot of miles on mine - typically 85-120 miles per week. If things start plaing up at the start of my ride, I have to either suffer it for another 20 miles or do roadside adjustments.
The bike is not as effiicient as a chain-driven bike, but I'm not sure how much of this is due to (a) the belt, (b) the cranks, cassette and cogs or (c) the frame of my bike.
Parts are more expensive - belt, craks and cogs.
Local bike shops are generally not familiar with belt driven bikes, even if they sell them.