Bike fit advise

stumpmagnet

Hi all, having just bought a nice new Dolan lEtape last Thursday I have decided to go lower on my bar position than I had on my previous bike (cube peleton pro).
Could the experts have a look at the images and let me know if this looks about right? Seems comfortable and my average over a 35 mile loop went from 20.2 with the stem at +6* to 21.3 mph with the stem flipped the next day.
My cube I had previously was a size large and was always a stretch and I had all the spacers under the stem, I am only 5ft 8 1/2" but my instep is 32 1/2" so I need a high seat height.
My LBS sold me the cube a couple of years ago and I was never convinced it was the right size so when I ordered the Dolan the guys advised a medium but with 350mm seat post when it arrived it looked very compact but now I have set the seat height etc it's far more comfy than the cube ever was.
Does the stem length look ok also? Cheers

styxd

Saddle looks too high in your first pic. Looks like you've got alot of weight on your hands aswell. I'd move the saddle down and back. You also need to rotate your pelvis more to enable you to get lower with a flat back. You also look quite toes down, where are your cleats positioned? If they're right under the ball of your foot, I'd recommend moving them back 5 - 10mm.

brownbosh

This is a dangerous request to make on a forum. People have very different set ups even in the pro ranks. For me the saddle height looks correct. Impossible to tell on forward ort rear without seeing pedals at quarter to three and also seeing bike without you sat on it. Your position also looks a little short to me on the drops. I honestly think that if you have little experience then saving for a reputable fit would be the best investment - no-one on here can possibly see how your knees and hips are tracking and where your bodies weakness' lie in a static photo. Good luck though fella and enjoy.

t4tomo

It doesn't look far off and most importantly you said its feels more comfortable. Tinker with it a bit one item at a time and see if you can improve, gat is essentially all bike fitting is.

stumpmagnet

I have only just read everyone's replies so sorry. done a 50 mile ride yesterday with the aim of playing with the set-up, I did indeed end up dropping the seat 5mm at first then another 5mm some miles later and made a huge improvement took a lot of weight of my wrists, I will look into my cleat position and re set the saddle fore/aft with plumb line from my knees. have set my single speed commuter to the same spec today and is also much better. thanks all will keep you updated and will end up having a proper fitting when funds allow.

drlodge

styxd wrote:

Saddle looks too high in your first pic. Looks like you've got alot of weight on your hands aswell. I'd move the saddle down and back. You also need to rotate your pelvis more to enable you to get lower with a flat back. You also look quite toes down, where are your cleats positioned? If they're right under the ball of your foot, I'd recommend moving them back 5 - 10mm.

This advice is on the money. The saddle looks too far forward putting too much weight on your hands, move it back (and down a bit) so that you have little pressure on your hands.

if you stand upright with your arms outstretched then bend your legs, see how your bum sticks out? That's the kind of position you want to emulate

stumpmagnet

Many thanks for the replys everyone I think I still need to move the saddle back about 10mm - 15mm but it's on the end if the printed scale at the nose end yet there is loads of rail left (it's a fizik tundra2) is it ok to move it further to get my plumb line in line from my knee to the pedal axel? I'm assuming the scale takes into account different seatpost clamp designs as the scale is still usable at the tail end of the clamp, if when I've got this sorted my arms are locked out when on the hoods should I then go for a shorter stem? I assume they should have a slight bend at the elbow will try tonight and report back

styxd

Stumpmagnet wrote:

Many thanks for the replys everyone I think I still need to move the saddle back about 10mm - 15mm but it's on the end if the printed scale at the nose end yet there is loads of rail left (it's a fizik tundra2) is it ok to move it further to get my plumb line in line from my knee to the pedal axel? I'm assuming the scale takes into account different seatpost clamp designs as the scale is still usable at the tail end of the clamp, if when I've got this sorted my arms are locked out when on the hoods should I then go for a shorter stem? I assume they should have a slight bend at the elbow will try tonight and report back

I wouldnt bother with the plumb line, you just want enough saddle setback to take the weight off your arms really. It's genberally fine to clamp the saddle outside the scale. Bear in mind that if you move the saddle back, you may need to move it down slightly aswell. Make sure your cleats are set properly. Rotate your pelvis forward, this should give you a flater back and enable you to reach the bars.

drlodge

Different seat post have more/less "set back", frames with steep seat tube angles will need more saddle setback to get to the same fore/aft position - about 1cm per degree. I had to find a seat post with 35mm set back (20mm is more standard) on my Condor which has a 74 degree seat post, to get the saddle to the right fore/aft position.

6wheels

I'm a great believer in the balance method, might be worth a read...

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... oad-bikes/

drlodge

6wheels wrote:

I'm a great believer in the balance method, might be worth a read...

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... oad-bikes/

Me too!

stumpmagnet

That's a great article very interesting I have since these pics lowered the seat about 10mm and moved it back around 5mm after 10mm seemed too much, now when I'm in the drops and pushing I find it more comfortable than on the hoods as there seems less weight on my wrists would a 90mm (as apposed to the 100mm fitted) stem bring the bars closer and take a little more weight off? Or would I be too cramped up,

stumpmagnet

Just fitted 90mm stem and feels even better on a short ride around the block will need a longer ride to determine if this is the way to go but off on holiday for a week so will have to wait

RDW

drlodge wrote:

6wheels wrote:

I'm a great believer in the balance method, might be worth a read...

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... oad-bikes/

Me too!

I find it a bit hard to trust anything on that site after reading this:

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... are-of-it/

stumpmagnet

Hi all an update. I have gone back to the 100mm stem now as I felt a little cramped with the 90mm went out tonight on a 50mile ride at quite a high pace and have experienced very sore thighs which I haven't had before the only difference from previous rides is I had some different (diadora) shoes to try which seem to keep my feet a bit more leval on a pedal stroke than my old shimano shoes is this the way to go and suffer until I get used to it or go back to my shimano shoes?

drlodge

Try moving the cleat so your foot is a little more forward on the pedal, just a couple of mm, that will help drag your foot round and not tire out your thighs so much.

stumpmagnet

ok thanks will try that not sure if i have much adjustment to move the cleat
so thats to move the cleat reaward on the shoe?

drlodge

Stumpmagnet wrote:

ok thanks will try that not sure if i have much adjustment to move the cleat
so thats to move the cleat reaward on the shoe?

Yes, cleat goes back,so shoe moves forward in relation to the pedal. I forget the precise measurement, my ball (of the foot) is > 1cm forward of the spindle.

Late Starter

Having a proper bike fit was the best thing I ever did for comfort. Had back pain all my life and climbing steep hills for any length of time killed me. Did the Ventoux a few years ago and despite the fact that it is a killer of a climb, it was back ache that absolutely destroyed me and made me realise I needed to seek help.

Now, after a Retul bike fit, with the stick on sensors and the computer witchcraft that goes with it, I hardly ever get any back pain. I'm not saying you should have a Retul one, as I'm sure standard bike fits are just as good (far cheaper too!). However, it's the best money I have ever spent on anything to do with biking, and I have spent some money in my time, especially on stems, saddles, bars etc.

AIMVHO

stumpmagnet

Yup if things don't improve that's the way I will have to go although went out with my local club last night doing race training and wore my shimano shoes and my legs although still a bit sore from Wednesday didn't seem too bad at all

BrandonA

brownbosh wrote:

This is a dangerous request to make on a forum. People have very different set ups even in the pro ranks.

Same goes for professional bike fitters. There is no right answer.

I don't really understand why people rant and rave about bike fits.

A proper service would determine the best bike for you in advance to purchasing one. Including the saddle, stem etc.

If you own a bike I think you need to tinker until you get it how you like it. I've adjusted the saddle height on my winter a few times on my bike and now I think it offers a good power to comfort ratio. Test flipping the stem and see which you prefer. Move the saddle forward and backwards. Try different cleat positions.

After making a change test it. If comfort is your main thing see if it rides better. If you want speed, see if you can generate more power.

ugo.santalucia

Looks fine, but the white shorts look cack, sorry!

Moonbiker

Wow steve hogg has some crazy ideas

I find it a bit hard to trust anything on that site after reading this:

http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... are-of-it/

News flash

Charity braclets fuck up you illiac crest heights

Dam that Lance :shock:

Moonbiker

As for the OP sounds like you are changing your bike setup after everyride which seems abit fast, better to leave the adjustments made in place abit longer as changes will take awhile to get used to & for your body to adapt to. Then you can and decide if you like them more accurately.

stumpmagnet

Was thinking the same thing will leave alone for now went out early today for 40odd miles and had no problems