Bike for Climbing Advice(Ribble Bike Builder)
jack264
Posts: 39
So I've been throwing around two used bikes over the past 2 summers, a AluHydro Bianchi 1885 from 2007(Shimano) and more recently a Ribble Winter Trainer Campagnolo. Both have done well on the climbs I've been doing, which the highest is the Horseshoe Pass.
However I feel it's time to step up to a new bike of my own, I feel I've earned it, plus the Winter Trainer can then be used as...winter trainer/commuter instead of my hardtail.
My budget is probably up to about £1500, 0% interest over 7-10 months and we could probably look at spending more. I'm looking to a do few more steeper and harder rated climbs, and go carbon probably sticking to Campag as Di2 is a little out of the market for now.
Want to get an idea on wheels and gears.
When it asks me to choose cassette and torque chainset on the veloce, are the smaller the easier to climb with? I don't know what I have on the Winter Trainer but I can't climb with any higher than the 4th lowest gear on a long climb.
Also can I get an idea of what's the difference between the wheels, people rave about mavics often, but I don't really understand the difference between them all. I have Campagnolo Khamsin on this ribble, but what's the difference with them and say Mavics where Ribble doesn't even allow to buy tyres and tubes? I've never actually had a puncture on a road bike insanely. Would be looking to continue that trend mostly, although a good all rounder preferred.
Last, for now, is the HF83 worth the £300 extra over the R872.....definitely prefer the R872 with looks, but I'm happy to build around the HF83 is the price is justified.
I know it's long guys, but for the past 18 months, I've just rode, rather than looking at technical sides. Thanks for any help.
However I feel it's time to step up to a new bike of my own, I feel I've earned it, plus the Winter Trainer can then be used as...winter trainer/commuter instead of my hardtail.
My budget is probably up to about £1500, 0% interest over 7-10 months and we could probably look at spending more. I'm looking to a do few more steeper and harder rated climbs, and go carbon probably sticking to Campag as Di2 is a little out of the market for now.
Want to get an idea on wheels and gears.
When it asks me to choose cassette and torque chainset on the veloce, are the smaller the easier to climb with? I don't know what I have on the Winter Trainer but I can't climb with any higher than the 4th lowest gear on a long climb.
Also can I get an idea of what's the difference between the wheels, people rave about mavics often, but I don't really understand the difference between them all. I have Campagnolo Khamsin on this ribble, but what's the difference with them and say Mavics where Ribble doesn't even allow to buy tyres and tubes? I've never actually had a puncture on a road bike insanely. Would be looking to continue that trend mostly, although a good all rounder preferred.
Last, for now, is the HF83 worth the £300 extra over the R872.....definitely prefer the R872 with looks, but I'm happy to build around the HF83 is the price is justified.
I know it's long guys, but for the past 18 months, I've just rode, rather than looking at technical sides. Thanks for any help.
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Comments
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Speaking of gearing, if you want to climb, chances are you would do best with a compact chainset which is 50/34 with 34 being the small ring. I think most people would suggest pairing that with an 11-28 on the back, which should give you a great climbing range. With shimano i think you can go up to 32 teeth on the back, but I wouldn't recommend that unless you've got lots of 25% gradients or higher.
As for wheels, I've used Khamsins for a long while now and while they are nothing stunning they are super reliable. Campagnolo and Fulcrum wheels, are practically the same with different decals. I think for the money they are very good. Zondas for example are around £270 for about 1500g, and krysllium, the Mavic equivalent, are likely a bit more than that, nearer £400 so they are quite a bit more, but equally well regarded. The reasons Ribble won't let you buy tyres and tubes, is because Mavic wheels come as part of a system, that include tyres and tubes (WTS). If you change to different wheels you will then have add tyres and tubes. Figure that in your costs.
I hope that helpsCanyon Roadlite AL-Shamal Wheels-Centaur/Veloce Group
Canyon Ult CF SL- Spin Koppenberg-Ultegra group0 -
ok, yeah I don't plan on doing climbs that steep. I think theres the odd random short hill that sometimes feels out of my depth, but I can grind up them considering the relative shortness of them.
I'm thinking
Ribble R872
Campag Veloce 13-29 with Compact 34/50
Campag Khamsin ASY G3(this will probably be first future upgrade)
Dead Alloy Handlebars and Stem
Trivio Headset Spacers
Selle Italia Nekkar Plus Flow Saddle
Deda RSX 01 Seatpillar
Continental Gatorskin Folding Tyre + Continental Tubes
Might get cheap SPD-SL pedals so I can two sets around, though I might not be using clipliss when commuting. That Build is about £1350. If I were to push it towards 1500-1700. What upgrades/changes would you recommend?0 -
Khamsin's are bulletproof but weigh an absolute tonne. Would suggest upgrading those to Zonda or neutrons if you can.0
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I could probably stretch to Zondas.
Though it actually adds more than expected as a Khamsin/Veloce build through their SE page is about £80 cheaper than through the bikebuilder itself, the bastards! But it's ultra limited in Wheel upgrade options.0 -
Bin the Gatorskins and go for a nicer feeling tyre. The GP 4S is a much better tyre but with puncture protection that seems to be as good.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
Assuming that I haven't misunderstood you about Di2 you might want to consider this Cube. It is obviously size dependant and I realise you weren't asking for other bike options but I came across it the other day and figured it would be a great deal for someone.
http://www.tweekscycles.com/Product.do?method=view&n=3276&g=309178&p=309183&c=215&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Clearance%20&%20SALE%20Bikes&gclid=CP6x1YTv-70CFcjjwgodSj8AOwhttps://www.bikeauthority.cc/
IG - bikeauthority.cc0 -
twgh wrote:Khamsin's are bulletproof but weigh an absolute tonne. Would suggest upgrading those to Zonda or neutrons if you can.
Khamsins weigh 300g more than Zondas or Neutrons. That is hardly 'an absolute tonne'!
Excellent winter wheels - can't go wrong having a pair of Khamsins lying around or on the bike!
Don't pick the G3 unless there is no choice. You can now get more sensibly spoked Khamsins which, irrc, weigh less (marginally) and cost less than the G3 and would be easier to true if you managed to disarray them a bit.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Bin the gatorskins - winter trainer with little feel. Great against punctures but can be a bit slippy in the wet - the sort of thing you'd pick for year round commuting.
I'd go for Zonda's over the Khamsins.
And I reckon the R872 is the frame to go for.0 -
I think you would be better off with the 12-30 centaur cassette , 50x13 may be a bit low on fast downhills.0
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30 may be too low in fairness. I need to count the cassette on my Ribble Trainer, it's definitely 34/50, just need to check the back one when I can. I bought it off someone whos a far better climber than me, so only want to go 1 or 2 up.
What tyres should I go with then? In general, this will mostly be a summer bike, BUT i can easily get stuck in rain on it, and I'd happily take the disadvantages in favour of them being as puncture proof as possible. How reliable are the tyres of Mavics? Might throw on some Ksyriums, though I'm not sure of the difference between the equipes and elites?0