Question regarding wheels

Lancstony

I have been using my mountain bike recently to shed some weight, was 20st 7lbs but now down to 19st.

I bought myself a road bike last year but due to my weight I wouldnt use it as could just see the wheels collapsing or the frame breaking cos of the lard i was carrying, not that i am slim now though, the bike is a Ribble winter bike. :oops:

My question is, at what weight do you think i would be safe using it as I really want to get out on the road bike but am afraid i will break it at my current weight.

I have changed the wheels on it to something with more spokes which i understand helps, am i being over cautious because its a road bike i just think it wont be as strong as the mountain bike?

DiscoBoy

You'll most probably be fine. As you suggest, the wheels are the main concern: the frame will be fine. What wheels are on there here're at the moment? How many spokes?

Lancstony

They are Shimano R501 standard spokes, 20 front and 24 rear, if that helps as I am not as knowledgeable as that reply indicates!!!

slowbike

hmm - something with a few more spokes may be a little more robust ... 32 per wheel would be better and little difference in performance to the R501s ...

lostboysaint

Slowbike wrote:

hmm - something with a few more spokes may be a little more robust ... 32 per wheel would be better and little difference in performance to the R501s ...

That.

Just changed my Fulcrum 5s (which admittedly lasted a couple of thousand miles before pinging a spoke) for some Velocity A23s. More than happy with the additional strength, width, no. of spokes and stiffness. And I'm 98kg.

Lancstony

Thanks for the replies will have a further look into it, might just wait until I'm a good bit lighter and just use the mountain bike for now.

I got motivated watching people ride over Honister Pass in the Lakes on Monday and thought thats my aim! bit to go yet though!!!!

slowbike

you could probably sell the 501's and get some sturdier wheels and the whole thing be cost neutral.

lostboysaint

Slowbike wrote:

you could probably sell the 501's and get some sturdier wheels and the whole thing be cost neutral.

That.

Why wait? Just go and get a decent set of 32 spoke wheels, which you know will be good enough - if properly spec'd - 'cos that's probably the spoke count you're riding on your MTBs!

Lancstony

Will give it a try and see what I can sort, those Velocity ones seemed a bit pricey on first search but will have a further look tonight when got a bit more time.

Determined to become a hill climbing whippet!!!!

wishitwasallflat

Ride it now the frame will be fine those wheels will probably last 1k miles or so before spokes break, if you replace them get 36 spoke handbuilts. I started road biking at well north of 22 stones and am now 17.5 seen off a few sets of similar wheels but my Harry Rowland 39 spoke handbuilts have been faultless.

1964johnr

If your current wheels are laced with cheap spokes which bend 90 degrees at the point where they join the hub, this will provide a weak point. At this point the strength of the spoke is reduced by 40% because of the bend in the metal. This is where a lot of spokes snap with heavier riders. I am 16 stones and regularly snapped spokes. I changed to Mavic Aksiums which have straight spokes with no bend at the hub. Problem cured. No snapped spokes in over a year now.

lostboysaint

1964johnr wrote:

If your current wheels are laced with cheap spokes which bend 90 degrees at the point where they join the hub, this will provide a weak point. At this point the strength of the spoke is reduced by 40% because of the bend in the metal. This is where a lot of spokes snap with heavier riders. I am 16 stones and regularly snapped spokes. I changed to Mavic Aksiums which have straight spokes with no bend at the hub. Problem cured. No snapped spokes in over a year now.

Puts kettle on, grabs biscuits and waits for wheelbuilders to arrive..............

ugo.santalucia

1964johnr wrote:

If your current wheels are laced with cheap spokes which bend 90 degrees at the point where they join the hub, this will provide a weak point. At this point the strength of the spoke is reduced by 40% because of the bend in the metal. This is where a lot of spokes snap with heavier riders. I am 16 stones and regularly snapped spokes. I changed to Mavic Aksiums which have straight spokes with no bend at the hub. Problem cured. No snapped spokes in over a year now.

Where did you get this information? It's a lot of nonsense.
There is no evidence whatsoever that straight pull spokes last longer than J bent ones. People on Aksium break spokes, people on J type break spokes. It's a fact of life, spokes fatigue and eventually break, regardless of whether they are straight or J bent. It often happens to be close to the hub, where most of the torque is applied, that's the same for straight spokes.

ugo.santalucia

I am also not sure about how true your comment is John1964. You say you've had the Aksium for over one year now, but then I find this comment of yours dated 7 January 2014 :shock:

Decided to buy a ribble Gran fondo with 105 groupset. will be going for a compact 50-34 with a 172.5 crank arm and a 11-28 casette. This seems to be the best they do for someone who needs those easy gears. My problem is which wheels to go for. I brake rear wheel spokes on my current Giant SCR 2 at the rate of one every five rides and although my weight may not be the only issue, I want to make sure that I choose strong wheels which will not brake spokes at regular intervals. i have gleaned that a 32 or 36 spoke wheel will probably be better than wheels with a low spoke count, but not sure which wheels on the Ribble bike builder will be appropriate. Anyone got any ideas?

Can you explain?

Joeblack

Popcorn.... Open!!

lostboysaint

Joeblack wrote:

Popcorn.... Open!!

As you can see, I'd already got the front row seat Want a top up?

Joeblack

lostboysaint wrote:

Joeblack wrote:

Popcorn.... Open!!

As you can see, I'd already got the front row seat Want a top up?

Haha spotted now

Did you bring the beers?!

racingcondor

As has been said bu Ugo and others. 32 spoke handbuilts would do the job. J bend spokes only break at the J if the wheel is bady built and the spokes are losing tension as the wheel flexes. If that's the case then straight pull spokes will break in short order as well.

I'd suggest Shimano hubs (well made and about as weather resistant as they come), 32 spokes Sapim Race or DT Competition (or the cheaper ACI double butted spokes) and any decent rim. I'm sure your wheelbuilder will have a preferred rim so I'd go with that.

ugo.santalucia

lostboysaint wrote:

Joeblack wrote:

Popcorn.... Open!!

As you can see, I'd already got the front row seat Want a top up?

Sadly I suspect the guy is a troll. Looking at his past... when someone opens yet another thread about "jumping red lights" you know he's just trying to create an argument... and this is no different... just contradicting himself only a few months after claiming the exact opposite...

Lancstony

Oh no what have I started!!!

ugo.santalucia

Well, it's not your fault... my moderator bulb lit as I read the post, because I remember the guy for this other thread he opened in the general section and I subsequently had to move to the Bottom Bracket section... pure trolling

viewtopic.php?f=30005&t=12962869&p=18792716#p18792716

and let's not forget this other gem

viewtopic.php?f=40013&t=12962342&p=18785919#p18785919

Lancstony

Never understand the whole trolling thing, just seems weird to me.

Anyway with regards to my original question I am shortly off out the door for a short ride to see how the current wheels go, fingers crossed nothing happens!!!

ugo.santalucia

Lancstony wrote:

Never understand the whole trolling thing, just seems weird to me.

It's a bit like starving a pack of dogs and then throwing a chicken in the yard to see what happens... some people take pleasure... :?

Lancstony

Hmm whatever floats your boat I guess