disc brake adjustment

dartmoorcyclist

Hi all,
I am a newbie to disc brake adjustment and have read as much as I can and watched videos and can't get my Hayes CX Expert set up right - can anyone give me some tips please but keep it basic language, or speak slowly please…!
I either have the pads rubbing the rotor or I have to set the brake cable so slack that the lever has to depress most of the way in to brake, there seems to be no middle ground. I can't find a manual online.

There is a very slight warp in the rotor, it is so slight that I can't see what is happening but think it is rubbing against the outboard pad, there is just a slight rubbing sound for a small section of the rotor. I do need to fix this and it seems easily done but I am concerned about bending it too far or the wrong way. I only have to turn the adjuster screw a couple of turns and the whole rotor is touching the pad (I think the outboard pad). The outboard pad seems to be sitting a little closer to the rotor (than the inboard pad) when the brakes are off.
I have recentred the calliper, undoing two bolts, depressing the brake lever, doing up the two bolts again.
I have tried moving the inboard pad in, and wound the adjuster all the way back (slackening the cable).
Basically there seems to be a very fine line, and I can't get the brakes to lock on without depressing the lever a long way.
Also, while I am at it, I am not sure how to take the pads out and be sure they are sitting correctly. There is a small hex screw above the brake pads, and then I can see the tabs where I can pull them out underneath, but without a manual I am hesitant to undo the hex screw.
Sorry for the long post! Any thoughts please - especially if you know this actual brake model.
Many thanks.

ugo.santalucia

Clearances for road discs are very narrow, so if the disc is warped, it's good for the bin.
First you need to align the caliper, so undo the allen bolts that fix it to the frame, squeeze the brake and tighten them while you squeeze. This way the caliper will be perfectly aligned. The inner allen bolt and the adjusting barrel allow you to position the pads where you want them to be. You want the disc to run really close to the inner pad and a bit further from the outer (which is the one that moves) Both distances are less than 1 mm. Pad adjustment is a matter of fractions of a turn, not one or more full turns.
Don't give up on them, because they are awesome brakes

sungod

as above

before starting adjustment, make absolutely sure the wheels are fully seated in the dropouts - undo qr, put weight on bike, tighten qr

dartmoorcyclist

Thanks both for your replies. I am hoping putting the wheel and disc in a truing stand and a tiny tweak will save the rotor though - it is out by a fraction of a millimetre - and so I think proper set up will also help. I will keep going! The wheel is definitely in firm - tried that first. Never lean a road bike with discs against anything is the rule from now on! Another question though - if I do need new rotors, can I buy cheaper ones that are 160mm. Not ideal, but the ones on it look like they can't be sourced in the UK and are expensive. They look like standard 6 bolt. Thanks again.

ugo.santalucia

Try to straighten it isa waste of time. It works for MTB, but in road brakes you need sub millimeter clearance. You can buy any 6 bolt rotor of the correct size. They are just steel discs, there is no magic in them

dartmoorcyclist

Okay thanks! Got the message, new rotors it is!