Tyres, advice please
abarth_1200
Posts: 370
Hi.
So I'm looking for a fast rolling, lightweight set or combination of tyres for my 120 mm full suspension bike, mainly ride trails and forest tracks, must be grippy on wet rock and roots.
I currently have a pair of schwalbe smart sams which are a little heavy, just got a racing ralph 2.25 evo which is 495 grams, however looking online it appears the racing Ralph was redesigned around the larger contact patch of 29 inch wheels, do you think they redesigned the whole tread based on just 29ers, I'm asking because I have 26 inch wheels.
What should I put up front, another racing ralph or maybe a nobby nick, in the same width? Also can anyone explain to me high volume v low volume tyres, does a high volume narrow tyre roll faster with less effort.
As you can see I'm kinda fond on schwalbe tyres but I've seen a couple of maxxis options. So maybe a a few suggestions from the guys in the know on what tyres to look into.
Ps I'm seriously considering getting stans no tubes and converting to tubeless to save more weight, rims are dt swiss x430 with a hole for Schrader valve, can a presta valve no tubes kit be used with these rims?
So I'm looking for a fast rolling, lightweight set or combination of tyres for my 120 mm full suspension bike, mainly ride trails and forest tracks, must be grippy on wet rock and roots.
I currently have a pair of schwalbe smart sams which are a little heavy, just got a racing ralph 2.25 evo which is 495 grams, however looking online it appears the racing Ralph was redesigned around the larger contact patch of 29 inch wheels, do you think they redesigned the whole tread based on just 29ers, I'm asking because I have 26 inch wheels.
What should I put up front, another racing ralph or maybe a nobby nick, in the same width? Also can anyone explain to me high volume v low volume tyres, does a high volume narrow tyre roll faster with less effort.
As you can see I'm kinda fond on schwalbe tyres but I've seen a couple of maxxis options. So maybe a a few suggestions from the guys in the know on what tyres to look into.
Ps I'm seriously considering getting stans no tubes and converting to tubeless to save more weight, rims are dt swiss x430 with a hole for Schrader valve, can a presta valve no tubes kit be used with these rims?
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At the moment I'm running a Rocket Ron (pace star triple compound) on the rear and a Fat Albert (Trail Star) on the front. Both run on tubeless. Tbh I'm a bit disappointed with them. Over the years ive tried Contis in black chilli, Panaracers, etc etc. ive always got better and better tyres as Ive gone along. My last set was Bontrager XR3 team issue, i only got them as needed some at short notice and thats what my lbs suggested. I was sceptical as looked very round and not much tread. I put them on with Bontrager sealent and they was the best tyres I have ever run. The rolled fast, gripped in all conditions and was indestructible compared to others. They are really cheap too compared to most. The only reason I got these is they was free as part of a wheel upgrade so thought, why not. Was expecting big things but as soon as they wear down i'll be back to XR3 Team issues. I would also never run tyres with tubes again now tried tubeless.0
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lbalony wrote:At the moment I'm running a Rocket Ron (pace star triple compound) on the rear and a Fat Albert (Trail Star) on the front. Both run on tubeless. Tbh I'm a bit disappointed with them. Over the years ive tried Contis in black chilli, Panaracers, etc etc. ive always got better and better tyres as Ive gone along. My last set was Bontrager XR3 team issue, i only got them as needed some at short notice and thats what my lbs suggested. I was sceptical as looked very round and not much tread. I put them on with Bontrager sealent and they was the best tyres I have ever run. The rolled fast, gripped in all conditions and was indestructible compared to others. They are really cheap too compared to most. The only reason I got these is they was free as part of a wheel upgrade so thought, why not. Was expecting big things but as soon as they wear down i'll be back to XR3 Team issues. I would also never run tyres with tubes again now tried tubeless.
nice testimonial
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Ok good, looked up the weight at 520g it's maybe a little heavy, looks a good tyre and other reviews say so to.
What is the difference between pace star and trail star on schwalbe tyres, I can't seem to find much info online
Any other suggestions.0 -
Trail star is stickier than pace star.
How about Conti Race Kings in Black Chilli compound?Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
stupidly light weight tyres and wet rocks is asking for trouble.0
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POAH wrote:stupidly light weight tyres and wet rocks is asking for trouble.
No its not. It depends on the tyre.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
RockmonkeySC wrote:POAH wrote:stupidly light weight tyres and wet rocks is asking for trouble.
No its not. It depends on the tyre.
520g is a little heavy according to the OP - light tyres have thin sidewalls and/or little tread.
show me a tyre that's under 520g that is actually got well protected sidewalls0 -
DCR00 wrote:Ardent in 60a
not under 520g0 -
I seriously would not worry about weight too much. The Bonti's felt lighter than some lighter tyres id run in the past. Good thing is with Bontis, you try them and if not happy they give you a full refund. Was a no brainer for me.
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Another shout for XR3s. Wouldn't get caught up with the weight of them as I run heavier XR4s in the Winter and find they roll quicker than 3s so go figure. Just a bit too aggressive for hard pack.Bird Aeris : Trek Remedy 9.9 29er : Trek Procaliber 9.8 SL0
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Had a look on crc for ardents but can't find the ones your on about, what do you ride and what terrain, they sound good0
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BloggingFit wrote:Another shout for XR3s. Wouldn't get caught up with the weight of them as I run heavier XR4s in the Winter and find they roll quicker than 3s so go figure. Just a bit too aggressive for hard pack.
I like my XR3 Team Issues too, they were great for my riding last summer (mix of trail centres and natural, all ridden like a fanny). Especially for £17.50 each. I fancy trying an XR4 front this summer, but not sure which width.0 -
Kowalski675 wrote:BloggingFit wrote:Another shout for XR3s. Wouldn't get caught up with the weight of them as I run heavier XR4s in the Winter and find they roll quicker than 3s so go figure. Just a bit too aggressive for hard pack.
I like my XR3 Team Issues too, they were great for my riding last summer (mix of trail centres and natural, all ridden like a fanny). Especially for £17.50 each. I fancy trying an XR4 front this summer, but not sure which width.
Go with the wider if running tubeless as you can get away with lower pressure which they seem to like. You may initially find them a touch aggressive up front on harder trails with the taller tread but towards the end of the dry season they're spot on, like an XR3 but with a softer rubber compound. Once you get the wear rate you should find the bike will have a nice rear wheel bias with an XR3 on the back and drift nicely.
A alternative option is an XR3 and XR2 front/rear combo in the Summer especially if the train centres you ride drain off well.Bird Aeris : Trek Remedy 9.9 29er : Trek Procaliber 9.8 SL0 -
I'm not running tubeless. Currently I've got XR3 at both ends, 2.2 rear and 2.35 front. I was going to buy the 2.35 XR4 for the front, but I noticed in my LBS that it's not only the width that differs - the trad blocks on the 2.35 are noticably larger and taller than on the 2.2 too, so I was thinking I'd go for the 2.2.
The trails i was riding last year (Gisburn and Stainburn and local routes) were bone dry in that lovely summer we had, but I'm new to MTB, coming from a background of road riding on (motor)bikes, where I'm used to being able to ride the front end and knowing it will grip. I'm struggling to transfer to MTB with any measure of confidence because I can't relax and trust the front end to grip on the looser surfaces of off road, hence considering trying the more aggressive XR4. I'm sure the XR3 will grip well past anything I can do with it, but I just want more confidence in front end grip. All the things I take for granted on a road bike (looking well ahead, reading the road, getting off the brakes before turning in etc etc) I'm really struggling to transfer to MTB trails cos I don't have confidence that the front tyre's going to grip, so I'm looking down just in front of my front wheel like a newbie ona direct access course and just not getting any flow. I can see things I'm doing wrongly (backed up by feedback on my skills course I attended last summer), but just can't seem to transfer the things I know from 20 years on tarmac onto the dirt (and it's frustrating). The speeds I'm riding at I won't be drifting, unless I'm in the process of falling off...0 -
I have 2.2 xr4 front and back and have total confidence.0
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It's gonna take more than a new tyre to give me total confidence, but it might help. 0
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Try going over bike set up and play with different tyre pressures. Look to put more into the rear, anything between 2.5 and 5 psi more is a good starting point, to see if you can encourage the bike to be more tail happy. You can do the same with suspension set up but you can go a lot deeper than simply pressure so I would start with the basic things first.
Other option is to see where your body weight is places on the bike when cornering as you may not be getting enough over the front wheel. Something simple like dropping stem height by 5mm can make enough of a difference.Bird Aeris : Trek Remedy 9.9 29er : Trek Procaliber 9.8 SL0 -
I've been running 30psi at both ends, but was thinking of trying dropping a couple (maybe down to 25psi) at the front to see how that feels. I don't weigh much, so hopefully should be able to do that without pinch flats becoming a problem. My suspension's Sektor TK front and Monarch R rear, so the only adjustments I have are preload and rebound, I' currently running 25% front sag and 30% rear.
Cockpit wise I'm running 740mm bars on a 70mm stem, currently with the standard 30mm of spacers under the stem, but I'm going to drop the stem down by 10mm and see how that feels (Ed kept telling me to get lower over the front end on my skills course, so that should help with that, and put some more weight through the front contact patch), hopefully it'll give me less of that ooer, think the front end's gonna wash out here feeling.0 -
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I think I've got my rebound pretty much right after a bit of experimentation, couple of clicks slower than middle at both ends, could feel the bike bouncing a bit before slowing it down a couple of clicks, now it returns nicely wihout packing down. It simplifies things when you don't have much adjustment, lol - it's rather simpler than playing with rebound plus separate high & low speed compression on my Wilbers.0
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Running more rear sag means you'll increase rear grip relative to front, try the same sag both ends or reversing it. With air springs sag is inversely proportional to spring rate (more sag = softer spring) and I'm sure you know from setting up m/c's you soften the end you want more grip at.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Whatever,on the back...but deffo a WTB Velociraptor 2.1 on the front...its the only directional tyre left!!!!!!!!!!!!!0
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Really?Soggz wrote:Whatever,on the back...but deffo a WTB Velociraptor 2.1 on the front...its the only directional tyre left!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not that directional necessarily makes a tyre 'better' anyway!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I used to play around with tyres all the time to try to get the "perfect setup" remember this is totally subjective and down to what you want from a tyre, your riding style, when you ride and where you ride.
If your after light weight but still want some good grip and are prepared to go tubeless I would recommend a continental mountain king supersonic in either a 2.2 or 2.4 (it does come up small) they do have paper thin sidewalls but up at Haldon forest where I ride a lot, the local stone is flint :shock: I have managed to slice 3 bontys (all within a couple of rides) but after 2 sets my contis are standing up to the test (could be just dumb luck but if the slipper fits.....). I do run them at slightly higher pressures and find this works well (about 32 front and 37 rear). I run these on my 150mm ragley marley hardtail but If I had a 100mm full sus XC bike I would run them on that too. My ragley is my skills / fitness training bike really.
On my full sus I tend to run maxxis high rollers or minions which personally are my perfect all round all year tyre. I run them tubeless and in single ply versions but they would be to aggressive for you and definitely too heavy!Yeti SB66c 20130 -
The Rookie wrote:
Really?Soggz wrote:Whatever,on the back...but deffo a WTB Velociraptor 2.1 on the front...its the only directional tyre left!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Not that directional necessarily makes a tyre 'better' anyway!
This is something I've noticed after a long time out, it used to be front tyres were like the velocorapter and rear tyes had the paddle style tread. I'm slightly struggling to get my head around paddle type tyres on the front even though people rave about things like the trail kings for a front tyre.
when did this change and was there a reason?0
