UDi2 vs Dura Ace
markwb79
Posts: 937
A colleague is asking my advice and I really cant decide...
Both 11sp, but which would you pick...
Ultegra Di2 or Mechanical Dura Ace.
(I know the correct answer is Super Record, but its between these two)
Thanks
Both 11sp, but which would you pick...
Ultegra Di2 or Mechanical Dura Ace.
(I know the correct answer is Super Record, but its between these two)
Thanks
Scott Addict 2011
Giant TCR 2012
Giant TCR 2012
0
Comments
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Both will be great and are pretty similar in price. Try them both and see what you prefer would be the most sensible advice.
DA9000 by all accounts is the best mechanial groupset on the market at the moment (at least in terms of functionality) so hard to argue with that.0 -
DA9000 on a road bike, Di2 on a TT bike.English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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My UDi2 battery ran out the other day half way around a planned 100km ride, I'll be going DA mechanical next time.0
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The battery on my phone ran out the other day. I'll use a carrier pigeon next time
Seriously, I had a few battery life concerns at first but so far my Ultegra internal battery it seems to go on for weeks on just one charge. Don't think you can go wrong with either Ultegra Di or DA mechanical - I guess much comes down to the feel of the electronic vs mechanical shift. I found that the Di shifting took a lot more getting used to than I was expecting and I didn't really like it at first, but now I am a convert.
For what it is worth Fabian Cancellara uses mechanical while all his Trek Factory Racing teammates use Di - very much a matter of personal taste. Wiggo still uses Di in spite of a couple of well publicised issues with it in the past -including the famous throwing his Dogma against a wall incident in the Giro del Trentino last year0 -
freefall_junkie wrote:The battery on my phone ran out the other day. I'll use a carrier pigeon next time
Not quite but you might consider a different phone with unlimited battery life ala a mechanical groupset. In general I like it, if it had a flashing battery light when low then that at least would help but it doesn't it relies on you checking, which as a div I didn't.0 -
Sram redI'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0
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Dura Ace for sure.Red bikes are the fastest.0
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I've ridden both and just made the decision to stick with dura ace. I can't begin to explain how good dura ace 9000 is....although I did try in the thread below:
viewtopic.php?f=40042&t=12958199&p=18734483#p187344830 -
Weight wise from high to low is UDi2-U-DA-UDA
DA 9000 would give you best performance, unless you really like electronic shifting. Its good for sprinting and rubbish shifting. You can shift your gears any way you like.Battaglin 3 Cime
Jamis Exile race 29er
Schwinn Madison0 -
When comparing shifters, cables and mechs with each other, the weight difference is a couple of swigs from your bottle.
As most decent frames now build up at well below UCI weight just isn't an issue.
Running your bike out of battery is like running your car out of fuel. Inexcusable when checking involves a 3 second button press at the end of a ride.
There are some very good mechanical systems out there... and there is Di2.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
tigertang0 wrote:UDi2-U-DA-UDA
I though it was De Do Do Do De Da Da Da... :roll:left the forum March 20230 -
How does anybody manage to run a battery flat? You get several warnings before the system fails!0
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I found it very hard to believe too.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
rickwiggans wrote:How does anybody manage to run a battery flat? You get several warnings before the system fails!
what warnings? went out, 50km later front mech shifts to small ring, stops. Carry on rear is still working but then rear derailleur stops in one gear and your done.
like i said be nice if there was some warning light like it flashed without you having to do a battery check.
if im missing something i'd love to know, the last charge was January 2014 so it lasted a good 3000kms or so.0 -
Yep, those are the warnings. But I have "clean bike, check battery routine". However, you should be getting much more than 50 Km from nearly flat to dead - more like 200 to 300 Km, which should in most cases be enough to get you home on the rear mech. Tired battery maybe? I'm not sure I'd see a flashing light to be honest, the junction box is tucked well out of the way. Sounds like you've been unlucky. Diary note to check battery on 2000km maybe?0
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yep will check more frequently now, it did go flat after 1 month storage around Xmas time so maybe a dodgy battery.0