Forum home Commuter cycling forum Commuting chat

Torque Keys

2»

Posts

  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,550
    edited April 2014

    £52.76


    ETA - I actually have a proper wrench but bikes in two countries and I'm a little nervous about trying to transport it in hand baggage case it falls into the category of a weapon. My friend just wants something for reassembling a bike after transporting in a bike bag - it's only the bar clamp - 4x 5Nm screws
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • ddraverddraver Posts: 22,574
    They make a solid clunk when you reach 5Nm - but yes if you re used to a decent set of long allen keys it's surprising how hard you have to turn it.
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • il_principeil_principe Posts: 9,146

    £52.76


    ETA - I actually have a proper wrench but bikes in two countries and I'm a little nervous about trying to transport it in hand baggage case it falls into the category of a weapon. My friend just wants something for reassembling a bike after transporting in a bike bag - it's only the bar clamp - 4x 5Nm screws

    Can be found cheaper and is useful to own, especially if you have carbon kit and travel with the bike.
    2015 Canyon Aeroad CF SLX
    2020 Canyon Ultimate CF SLX
    2020 Canyon Inflite SL 7
    On the Strand
    Crown Stables
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,550
    Slowbike wrote:
    If the nut and bolt are spec'd to just 5Nm and you over tighten the key then yes you could strip it ...

    Have you never stripped a bolt? Really - it's not that hard ...

    I have one of these tools - very pleased with it - although I suppose I should try and calibrate it ... 5Nm was more than I expected, but less than I could manage with an allen key.

    I'm sure I could strip it with a wrench or Allen key (though I can't remember the last time I did) - just it would be a struggle with this thing - you don't get much mechanical advantage from something 5cm wide - in fact, you're needing to apply over 100N (assuming the effective lever is less that the full 5cm) mostly with your thumb
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,550
    Can be found cheaper and is useful to own, especially if you have carbon kit and travel with the bike.

    For sure - these things are pretty convenient though and you can just leave it with the bike bag. Don't get me wrong, I use my proper torque wrench(es) (I have a load for the car too) lots and it is great.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,498
    Slowbike wrote:
    If the nut and bolt are spec'd to just 5Nm and you over tighten the key then yes you could strip it ...

    Have you never stripped a bolt? Really - it's not that hard ...

    I have one of these tools - very pleased with it - although I suppose I should try and calibrate it ... 5Nm was more than I expected, but less than I could manage with an allen key.

    I'm sure I could strip it with a wrench or Allen key (though I can't remember the last time I did) - just it would be a struggle with this thing - you don't get much mechanical advantage from something 5cm wide - in fact, you're needing to apply over 100N (assuming the effective lever is less that the full 5cm) mostly with your thumb

    I'm just a tough cookie! ;)
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,498

    £52.76


    ETA - I actually have a proper wrench but bikes in two countries and I'm a little nervous about trying to transport it in hand baggage case it falls into the category of a weapon. My friend just wants something for reassembling a bike after transporting in a bike bag - it's only the bar clamp - 4x 5Nm screws

    I think it's perfect for the bar and seat post clamps ... that's why I've got one.

    I've not bothered with an adjustable torque wrench as the accuracy is debatable. I've got a long one for the car - but mostly use that just as a longer lever.
  • meanredspidermeanredspider Posts: 12,550
    Slowbike wrote:
    I'm just a tough cookie! ;)

    Popeye, more like! Either that, or you buy some very cheap nasty stuff :wink:
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • slowbikeslowbike Posts: 8,498
    Slowbike wrote:
    I'm just a tough cookie! ;)

    Popeye, more like! Either that, or you buy some very cheap nasty stuff :wink:
    I do eat my spinach! ;)

    Seriously though - if you think a key is defective as you're not getting it to click then an old nut&bolt - clamp in a vice and tighten until you either get the click or can't tighten any more is not going to damage anything important ...
    I'd rather risk the spare nut/bolt than anything on the bike!

    Actually - when I first got the key I clamped it in a vice and turned it until I felt it give - so I knew what it was going to do when applied to bolts on my carbon bike - so that's an alternative - put it directly in the vice and turn.

    Btw- I don't buy cheap nasty stuff - I just don't want to wreck my expensive stuff! ;)
  • ddraverddraver Posts: 22,574
    i think there may be easier options than the whole vice thing but yes, i did several rides with my bars done up way too lose before I was fitting something that required more than 5Nm and gave it a bit more whack and heard the click
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
Sign In or Register to comment.