Back disc break is rubbing?

RedTurbo
RedTurbo Posts: 5
edited April 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
Hello, I have looked around other forums for an answer but cant find a topic related to my issue.

So yesterday I went out biking down hill and at the end of it my back disc was rubbing the - well look at this image of it, where the red arrow is: http://puu.sh/7TgUP.jpg

This is what the break looks like altogether if this helps: http://puu.sh/7TgWg.jpg

Now, i have loosened the back wheel and moved it around, doesnt seem to make much of a difference at all. to me the disc itself doesnt look bent, could it be the wheel or hub or even frame?

I only just started downhill and yesterday was my first time, the bike was pushed, maybe I did something there?

any advice thanks...

Comments

  • Ouija
    Ouija Posts: 1,386
    It's more likely your calipers moved inwards towards the wheel. Might want to loosen those two bolts in the pic and recentre it.
  • RedTurbo
    RedTurbo Posts: 5
    Ok, thanks. I will have a look now, are talking about the second or first picture?
  • Palmer82
    Palmer82 Posts: 21
    I think Ouija meansd loosen the bolt in the first image and realign the calliper.
  • RedTurbo
    RedTurbo Posts: 5
    Palmer82 wrote:
    I think Ouija meansd loosen the bolt in the first image and realign the calliper.

    Yeah I did that, only trouble is I cant seem to center it, just keeps touching?
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    RedTurbo wrote:
    only trouble is I cant seem to center it, just keeps touching?

    Do you mean that there isn't enough room between the pads to allow you to clear both sides of the rotor, or that you just can't move the calliper far enough in one direction to stop the original rub?

    you did loosen both calliper bolts, i take it?
  • RedTurbo
    RedTurbo Posts: 5
    you did loosen both calliper bolts, i take it?


    Well, yeah there isnt that much room between the pads and the disc itself. When I push the break, the piston does retract but hardly - is that normal??
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    While you're at it you may want to do your qr up!
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • mattv
    mattv Posts: 992
    Looks as if the disc isn't central in the caliper and one piston is out further than the other so the caliper sits crooked. Take out the wheel, use a wallpaper scraper, broad CLEAN flathead screwdriver etc to gently ease the pistons back into the caliper, or at least til they are even. Then refit wheel (properly using your quick release, it's not safe in that picture) loosen the 2 bolts then squeeze lever, tighten 2 bolts.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    JBA wrote:
    While you're at it you may want to do your qr up!
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,918
    That looks like the whole caliper/brake assembly is far too close to the disk itself. (can you get a shot of the other side and the front set-up as well providing you have matching brakes front and rear?)

    1st - As above. Slacken off the two caliper bolts, apply pressure to brake lever to centre pads, then nip up bolts gently whilst squeezing brake lever.

    2nd - if above doesn't work, it does look like the whole wheel hub has shifted away from the cassette. I've seen this happen on a mates bike where the locknuts on the hub bearings had come loose and wound the wheel across. Take wheel out and check for freeplay of the axle with your fingers or just see if the wheel rocks when it is mounted. Also compare both ends to see if a similar amount sticks out for mounting in the drop outs. Something in that first picture is just not right with that clearance.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.

  • paulbox
    paulbox Posts: 1,203
    cooldad wrote:
    JBA wrote:
    While you're at it you may want to do your qr up!

    Does doing up the QR make any difference? I'd have thought that that little bit of a squeeze it provides might help a tad.
    XC: Giant Anthem X
    Fun: Yeti SB66
    Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
    Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
    Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    It shifts the frame a fraction.
    Also stops you dying. Which, depending on your perspective, can be good.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • JBA
    JBA Posts: 2,852
    cooldad wrote:
    It shifts the frame a fraction.
    Also stops you dying. Which, depending on your perspective, can be good.

    This ^^^.
    “Life has been unfaithful
    And it all promised so so much”

    Giant Trance 2 27.5 2016 ¦ Sonder Broken Road 2021¦ Giant Revolt Advanced 2 2019 ¦ Giant Toughtroad SLR 1 2019 ¦ Giant Anthem 3 2015 ¦ Specialized Myka Comp FSR 2009
  • paulbox
    paulbox Posts: 1,203
    cooldad wrote:
    It shifts the frame a fraction.
    Also stops you dying. Which, depending on your perspective, can be good.
    Lol, I know what doing up a qr does in general; I meant, does it have any effect on his brake rubbing issue :)
    XC: Giant Anthem X
    Fun: Yeti SB66
    Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
    Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
    Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    cooldad wrote:
    It shifts the frame a fraction.
    Also stops you dying. Which, depending on your perspective, can be good.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    PaulBox wrote:
    Lol, I know what doing up a qr does in general; I meant, does it have any effect on his brake rubbing issue :)

    Yes - if the frame and hub aren't under pressure, the hub won't be in the right place relative to the frame and brakes. You should always have the wheel properly secured when adjusting the brakes, otherwise you're setting them against a rotor that will be free to move slightly, and in a different position compared with when you try to actually ride it.

    It's the same when adjusting hub bearings - there needs to be a tiny bit of play in the hub when it's not secured, which disappears under the pressure applied by the QR, because the whole thing is squeezed together slightly.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    PaulBox wrote:
    cooldad wrote:
    It shifts the frame a fraction.
    Also stops you dying. Which, depending on your perspective, can be good.
    Lol, I know what doing up a qr does in general; I meant, does it have any effect on his brake rubbing issue :)
    It can have an effect, yes. Not always though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • photonic69
    photonic69 Posts: 2,918
    Just had the same issue when changing my stem over. When reattaching the caliper to the carrier/bracket, the flex of the hydraulic hose causes the caliper to twist on the carrier and caused the same clearance issue. Slacken off bolts and align caliper by eye and nip up. Then loosen and centre by the above mentioned methods. Jobs a good 'un.


    Sometimes. Maybe. Possibly.