What order do you do things in (bike building)

rafletcher
rafletcher Posts: 1,235
edited April 2014 in Workshop
I've got to the point where I have the extraneous bits bolted to the frame - chainset in, front and rear mechs attached, bars and levers on, wheels in. So, chain needs to be fitted, and therefore I need to put it over the big/big combo to get the correct length. But I can't as the front mech is not set up - but in order to set that up I need a chain fitted. So, what would be your next step? (I've built several bikes before and always managed it, but can never remember this bit :lol: ) I'm leaning toward setting up the front mech with a "loose" chain.

Oh, and there is a new thing for me - this is the first frame I've had that has all internal cable routing. They've helpfully run nylon monofilament through the downtube from the head tube stops and through the top tube (not fully internally "tubed" so just the inner goes through) to help pull the cable inners. How do you / would you "join" the inner to the nylon - tie a knot? Using gaffer tape doesn't strike me as very secure...

Comments

  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    front mech - either use the limit screws to make it big ring only, or most have a screw to undo the cage so the chain can slip into the front mech

    i normally just bolt everything on (f. mech included), put the chain on to adjust - doesn't have to be going through the front mech to guage the size - just do big big with the f.mech off if you want and mark the chain with a sharpie
  • arlowood
    arlowood Posts: 2,561
    You don't need to do the big/big threading malarky to size your chain. Just use the link here and input the various numbers (largest chainring/largest sprocket and chainstay length) Works every time for me.

    http://www.epicidiot.com/sports/chain_l ... ulator.htm

    Then you can fit your chain with confidence onto the inner chairing and largest rear sprocket (assuming you have set up the rear mech) then start on the front mech set up.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Fit your chain over small-small and adjust to the longest length you can with the RD still taking up some slack. Stops you having to fight with the RD spring tensioning the chain so much.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    arlowood wrote:
    You don't need to do the big/big threading malarky to size your chain. Just use the link here and input the various numbers (largest chainring/largest sprocket and chainstay length) Works every time for me.

    http://www.epicidiot.com/sports/chain_l ... ulator.htm

    Then you can fit your chain with confidence onto the inner chairing and largest rear sprocket (assuming you have set up the rear mech) then start on the front mech set up.

    yes, I've seen chain calculators before - and indeed thinking back I may well have used one (possibly a Park Tool one) on my last build, it rings some faint bells (old age, it was only 6 months ago!)
  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    drlodge wrote:
    Fit your chain over small-small and adjust to the longest length you can with the RD still taking up some slack. Stops you having to fight with the RD spring tensioning the chain so much.

    Hmm, yes, that would be the longest it should be for sure. Can always shorten later, or leave it as it may well be long enough should I change from "compact" to "standard" chainset.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    rafletcher wrote:
    drlodge wrote:
    Fit your chain over small-small and adjust to the longest length you can with the RD still taking up some slack. Stops you having to fight with the RD spring tensioning the chain so much.

    Hmm, yes, that would be the longest it should be for sure. Can always shorten later, or leave it as it may well be long enough should I change from "compact" to "standard" chainset.

    It might be...Since I am using 34-50 and 12-29, I reckon I could fit a standard chainset and get away with it, if I used a 11/12-25 cassette.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • me-109
    me-109 Posts: 1,915
    arlowood wrote:
    You don't need to do the big/big threading malarky to size your chain. Just use the link here and input the various numbers (largest chainring/largest sprocket and chainstay length) Works every time for me.

    http://www.epicidiot.com/sports/chain_l ... ulator.htm

    Then you can fit your chain with confidence onto the inner chairing and largest rear sprocket (assuming you have set up the rear mech) then start on the front mech set up.
    I just ran mine through this and it came back with 53, which is 106 in my money and exactly what I have when I sized it up doing big/big or big/small/jockey wheels vertical.
  • spanner239
    spanner239 Posts: 181
    rafletcher wrote:
    Oh, and there is a new thing for me - this is the first frame I've had that has all internal cable routing. They've helpfully run nylon monofilament through the downtube from the head tube stops and through the top tube (not fully internally "tubed" so just the inner goes through) to help pull the cable inners. How do you / would you "join" the inner to the nylon - tie a knot? Using gaffer tape doesn't strike me as very secure...

    Dab of superglue?
  • 964cup
    964cup Posts: 1,362
    Recently it's been di2 bikes, so I do seatpost, saddle, cockpit first fit, wheels, check sizing, cockpit off and cut steerer, wheels off, wiring, mechs, test electrics, BB, chainset, chain, brakes, cockpit second fit, shifters, brake cable, bar tape, frame protection tape, wheels back on, cadence sensor, recheck torque, set up gears, set up brakes, test ride.

    For chain sizing I use the big-big + 2 links method with the front mechs off, or out of the way, then position the front mech and thread the chain. I use a cable tie to take the tension out of the rear mech until the chain is joined.

    For cable pulling, tie the monofilament to the cable using an icicle hitch or a Blake's hitch and then wrap it in electrical tape, as much to stop the cable fraying as to retain the knot.
  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    Thanks for the tips on the knots - and the one using a cable tie on the rear mech
  • arlowood wrote:
    You don't need to do the big/big threading malarky to size your chain. Just use the link here and input the various numbers (largest chainring/largest sprocket and chainstay length) Works every time for me.

    http://www.epicidiot.com/sports/chain_l ... ulator.htm

    Then you can fit your chain with confidence onto the inner chairing and largest rear sprocket (assuming you have set up the rear mech) then start on the front mech set up.

    Wow. That's brilliant. I keyed in my chainstsyvlength and sprockets and it came out with the exact number of links supplied to me by Spesh. Love it.
  • DiscoBoy
    DiscoBoy Posts: 905
    I'm not really seeing the problem: You don't need a front mech fitted to put the chain in big + big. You don't need a chain of the correct length to position your front derailleur.

    I'd fit the front derailleur first, but that's just me.
    Red bikes are the fastest.
  • StillGoing
    StillGoing Posts: 5,211
    Front derailleur on. If it's in the way i.e. between the rings, then adjust it to over the small ring. Chain on big/big, miss the rear derailleur, add 2 links and cut. Thread chain through RD and FD and join. Set FD.
    I ride a bike. Doesn't make me green or a tree hugger. I drive a car too.