Some feedback on using a road bike for first time

amityweb

Just got my first road bike, a Cube Peloton 2013 model. I've never ridden a road bike before, I've always ridden a MTB (but on the road). So I read and heard a lot of things to expect, and thought I would give my feedback as some of them are not true (for me):

What I was told
1) A bike salesman said I should be able to touch my toes else I may have issues due to bending forward more
2) I may get a back back as I lean forward more (so get a comfort framed bike not a race one)
3) I will feel the bumps a LOT more so full carbon would reduce this
4) It can be wobbly compared to a MTB
4) Been told my bottom will hurt more

What I found after a few rides (approx. 10miles)...

1) Touching toes proved to be b****it on this forum
2) No bad back yet (haven't been on long rides yet though)
3) This is not an issue at all - you can feel more bumps but not much at all. Certainly not worth the extra cost for a carbon frame. I was mostly concerned about this, but not an issue at all
4) This is true, but not much, only when trying some fast turns, needs getting used to
5) This is true

What no one told me

6) Get a bad neck from looking up more - I assume this will go in time as I get used to it and stretch my neck more

So am totally hooked on using the road bike compared to a MTB.

The important thing to note for anyone else in my shoes are the "issues" I was concerned with were not issues at all. I am much faster now, and covering more miles in the same time as my MTB.

Sawilson

Let's reiterate then

1) The salesman probably has a bet with someone that he can get every new customer to bend over, or he likes you
2) How many ex-pros do you see walking bent over double.
3) A carbon frame may reduce some road buzz, is it life changing, NO
4) Mountain bikes can be a bit wobbly if you hammering it down a black run !
5) The bottom issue gets better with time, a good fitting saddle and good quality padded shorts help.
6) The neck muscles are not used to being in this position but should soon strengthen up.

When MTB's became fashionable 20 odd years ago everyone threw their road bikes away and bought a new shiny but very heavy MTB that never actually went off road, but it was the thing to have.
Even to this day you still see them struggling with some heavy fat tired bike on the road when a hybrid/commuter/road bike would suit them far better.

I am glad you didn't swallow the bullsh*t given to you and you're enjoying the sport.
P.S it can get addictive and expensive.

Doris Day

I had a 2012 Cube. First thing i did was change the saddle and flipped the stem to make it more comfy.
Great bike choice

apreading

amityweb wrote:

What I was told
1) A bike salesman said I should be able to touch my toes else I may have issues due to bending forward more
2) I may get a back back as I lean forward more (so get a comfort framed bike not a race one)
3) I will feel the bumps a LOT more so full carbon would reduce this
4) It can be wobbly compared to a MTB
4) Been told my bottom will hurt more

What I found after a few rides (approx. 10miles)...

1) Touching toes proved to be b****it on this forum
2) No bad back yet (haven't been on long rides yet though)
3) This is not an issue at all - you can feel more bumps but not much at all. Certainly not worth the extra cost for a carbon frame. I was mostly concerned about this, but not an issue at all
4) This is true, but not much, only when trying some fast turns, needs getting used to
5) This is true

What no one told me

6) Get a bad neck from looking up more - I assume this will go in time as I get used to it and stretch my neck more

1) What the f*** was he on about...?
2) Bad back is more likely due to bad fit - a good fit should not cause this regardless of type of bike.
3) Carbon could be worse if it is really stiff, but generally does reduce road buzz. Frame design (shape of seat stays for example), wheels, tyres (particularly the latter) have as much if not more to do with it than that though. The effect of this goes up exponentially if you weigh more though, as you have more mass going over the bumps and you have to pump the tyres harder to avoid pinch flats. If you are quite light and have 25 or 28mm tyres with relatively low pressure, the bumps can be quite pleasant!
4) I think the 'wobbliness' is more when getting up to speed and is more to do with the narrower bars and lighter weight - just needs getting used to for some.
5) Again, if you get a saddle that fits you properly you should not necessarily expect this. If it does happen more on a road bike it is just because you are sat down more than when cycling off road - but you were riding your MTB on the road and will have been sat down most of the time, I imagine, so there should be no difference here.

6) The neck is one of the things that a more comfort oriented geometry would have helped with. It may get better or it may get worse, probably the former but only time will tell.

slowbike

1) I can't touch my toes without bending my knees - doesn't stop me from riding a relatively aggressive position and on TT bars.
2) You will use muscles you're not used to using - it takes time to adapt - that doesn't mean a "bad back" just a different workout - my back hurt at the weekend - I hadn't practised so much in the drops recently.
3) Compared to a MTB you will feel the bumps more - carbon forks would reduce that, full carbon a bit more, but not really enough to worry about it
4) The handlebars are narrower - yes, it's more wobbly - takes a bit of getting the hang of.
5) Correctly fitting saddle helps - as does getting used to the position.

6) Yes - holding your head up for a few hours does stress the muscles in your neck - it's part of the training - you need to try to relax those muscles from time to time - sit up, look around - just change position helps ...

markhewitt1978

If you have a bad back it can often just be getting used to it. A couple of months ago I flipped my stem to get a bit of a lower position, I had a bad back for the first couple of 100km rides, no problems thereafter.

The steering can seem quick comared to a MTB but that's just because the bars are much narrower, road bikes need more small inputs as obviously they are designed to hold their line on a road, not be doing lots of weaving around rocks etc.

leedsmjh

amityweb wrote:

What no one told me

6) Get a bad neck from looking up more - I assume this will go in time as I get used to it and stretch my neck more

.

If you are using an MTB-style helmet then removing the peak can help with this

botch

leedsmjh wrote:

amityweb wrote:

What no one told me

6) Get a bad neck from looking up more - I assume this will go in time as I get used to it and stretch my neck more

.

If you are using an MTB-style helmet then removing the peak can help with this

I'd agree with this - I'm an mtb'er who has recently bought a road bike for training/quick blasts around the local roads and found the peak was getting in the way. I didn't really notice it until I removed it and realised that it did genuinely make a difference.

The biggest change I've found is how quickly the bike reacts, I find my self over-turning or over-compensating from time to time. I also have a new-found respect for anyone riding road bikes on busy main roads and having to deal with potholes/badly set manhole covers etc..

HellsCyclist

Carbon framed road bikes do sod all to absorb road bumps. I know coz I got one. This makes me awsome.
Actually I dont know what the advantages are of carbon fibre. I suppose they are the Ferarris of bicycles. They make people think your loaded or something. Truth be told I purchased my current bike because the colour scheme looked fantastic. The salesman said I could have got a slightly higher spec bike for the same price but the colours on the other one were feces. This actually makes me a bit stupid but I dont care coz I enjoy the ride.

kajjal

HellsCyclist wrote:

Carbon framed road bikes do sod all to absorb road bumps. I know coz I got one. This makes me awsome.
Actually I dont know what the advantages are of carbon fibre. I suppose they are the Ferarris of bicycles. They make people think your loaded or something. Truth be told I purchased my current bike because the colour scheme looked fantastic. The salesman said I could have got a slightly higher spec bike for the same price but the colours on the other one were feces. This actually makes me a bit stupid but I dont care coz I enjoy the ride.

Did exactly the same for my MTB, no point having a bike you don't like the look of

As long as the spec and ride are what you want then all good. My road bike was purely purchased on spec and price in the sales. It rides well and I have no problems with its looks.

markhewitt1978

HellsCyclist wrote:

Carbon framed road bikes do sod all to absorb road bumps. I know coz I got one. This makes me awsome.

I went from an aluminium frame to a carbon frame with exactly the same components, so it was a back to back test, and it *does* make a big difference. Of course there are carbon frames which are harsher than aluminium, but in general terms it holds true.

amityweb

leedsmjh wrote:

If you are using an MTB-style helmet then removing the peak can help with this

One of the first things I did! Had to lookup online whet the difference was between MTB and road helmet and read it was a peak, so ripped that off

markhewitt1978 wrote:

I went from an aluminium frame to a carbon frame with exactly the same components, so it was a back to back test, and it *does* make a big difference.

My point is though that its totally fine for me (I dont ride HUGE rides, small but frequent), so i dont think the extra spend would be worth it, as the bumps are not bad at all. Maybe on long rides, I'll soon find out.

My bad back was only on one of my first rides, a 12 miler, but I haven't done really long rides. May do a 67 Wiggle Wye Warior in May so we'll find out then! Only done about 12 miles max so far. Although I am hooked, I'm out between 4 to 6 times a week I think, but only short (but hilly) rides. Love it.

markhewitt1978

amityweb wrote:

My point is though that its totally fine for me (I dont ride HUGE rides, small but frequent), so i dont think the extra spend would be worth it, as the bumps are not bad at all. Maybe on long rides, I'll soon find out.

There are some road surfaces that I'll ride over no problem at full speed when I'm doing a 15 mile loop. The same stretch after coming back from 60 miles feels like I'm running over rocks!

kayakerchris

All materials will give rough rides and all materials will give soft rides. It is all to do with the exact material and the way the bike is designed.

Aluminium is thought to give a lot of buzz but most aluminium bikes in this country are at the cheaper end of the market. I suspect if you try some of the high price german aluminium bikes they would be just as comfy as any other. I have a cheap steel lugged bike. Hard as rocks and I feel every wrinkle.

I have a steel better quality frame and it sucks up the bumps, but I also have 32 tyres on it at a lowish pressure.

It is the totality of the package that is important not one bit.

HellsCyclist

kayakerchris wrote:

All materials will give rough rides and all materials will give soft rides. It is all to do with the exact material and the way the bike is designed.

Aluminium is thought to give a lot of buzz but most aluminium bikes in this country are at the cheaper end of the market. I suspect if you try some of the high price german aluminium bikes they would be just as comfy as any other. I have a cheap steel lugged bike. Hard as rocks and I feel every wrinkle.

I have a steel better quality frame and it sucks up the bumps, but I also have 32 tyres on it at a lowish pressure.

It is the totality of the package that is important not one bit.

My 23mm tyres are supposed to have 120 psi. It also says 320 TPI what ever that means. Does TPI affect shock absorbency?

markhewitt1978

HellsCyclist wrote:

My 23mm tyres are supposed to have 120 psi.

That'll be 120psi MAXIMUM, there will be another recommended pressure, no doubt you can go lower, probably down to about 90psi before you run the risk of pinch flats.

It also says 320 TPI what ever that means. Does TPI affect shock absorbency?

Threads per inch, basically the quality of the tyre construction.