bars level with saddle

samsbike
samsbike Posts: 942
edited March 2014 in Road beginners
I have been suffering from a painful neck and shoulders and finally resorted to having the bars level with the saddle on my mtb and the pain has diminished.

However, I have not done the same on my road bike, as its too difficult to do. Do any others ride with the bars and saddle level? I did check the forum bit of 'your road bikes' - but the handlebar to seat drops look huge!

Comments

  • Wirral_paul
    Wirral_paul Posts: 2,476
    Painful neck and shoulders is often down to the reach being too long - are you sure it isnt this rather than what i assume is down to you looking up??

    You could always try flipping your stem over to angle it up for starters - but to answer your question.... no not many need to run bars level with the saddle
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    I have an inch of drop on my road bike and a little more on my XC mountain bike. Its just what feels comfortable to me and on the MTB what handles well off road. My mountain bike was fine as it originally came. For my road bike I flipped the stem so it is upright and put the spacers below the stem. Easy to do and put back.
  • Schobiedoo
    Schobiedoo Posts: 121
    Nope, my saddle is much higher than the bars. It sounds like it might be worth looking into getting a proper fitting done on your bike.
    Neil Pryde Bura SL
    Cannondale CAAD8
  • I had a fit, and the top of my bars is 1cm below my saddle.

    Not the fastest position, but I can sit on the bike all day and that matters to me.
  • samsbike wrote:
    I have been suffering from a painful neck and shoulders and finally resorted to having the bars level with the saddle on my mtb and the pain has diminished.

    However, I have not done the same on my road bike, as its too difficult to do. Do any others ride with the bars and saddle level? I did check the forum bit of 'your road bikes' - but the handlebar to seat drops look huge!
    Do not concern yourself with how others set their bikes up. Whats important is what's right for you.

    You seem to have found a solution for your mtb that you say is too difficult for your road bike. What's the difficulty? We might be able to help.
  • samsbike
    samsbike Posts: 942
    The mtb has an effective reach of 590mm with a 90mm stem.

    My road bike has a effective tt of 550mm with a 100mm stem and short reach bars, around 70mm I think. It seems ok on the top but the drops dont really work. Is a shorter stem the answer? If its that, will the tops not feel cramped?
  • Pituophis
    Pituophis Posts: 1,025
    I was having similar problems on my original frame which was (unknown to me - lack of experience) a little too big, so got a far shorter stem which improved things considerably.
    Even on my newer, smaller frame, I only have a drop of around about an inch, and it is very comfortable on long rides.
    As has been said, don't worry about "what looks right", it is more important that it is comfortable for your style of riding.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    samsbike wrote:
    The mtb has an effective reach of 590mm with a 90mm stem.

    My road bike has a effective tt of 550mm with a 100mm stem and short reach bars, around 70mm I think. It seems ok on the top but the drops dont really work. Is a shorter stem the answer? If its that, will the tops not feel cramped?

    When you say 'top', do you mean hoods or the flat section of bar?
    Where do you hold the bars mostly? I would not bother with the drops if you have issues with bar to seat drop.
  • samsbike
    samsbike Posts: 942
    Sorry, tops are the tops of the bars, perpendicular to the stem
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Why are you holding it there?

    Those flat bits are only there to join the stem to the hoods/drops :wink:

    Sounds like you could do with getting a smaller frame/bike TBH.
  • andrewjoseph
    andrewjoseph Posts: 2,165
    Samsbike,

    Where are you measuring from?

    I measure from where my sit bones are on the saddles to middle of tops, bottom of hoods and middle of drops. Don't measure from nose of saddle unless you have identical saddles on both bikes.

    The reach from my saddle on mtb to middle of grips is similar from same position on road saddle to bottom of hoods.
    --
    Burls Ti Tourer for Tarmac, Saracen aluminium full suss for trails
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Pointless comparing road and mtb setups since you should sit in a completely different position on a road bike. If you aren't, then you're probably not doing it right.
  • samsbike
    samsbike Posts: 942
    Samsbike,

    Where are you measuring from?

    I measure from where my sit bones are on the saddles to middle of tops, bottom of hoods and middle of drops. Don't measure from nose of saddle unless you have identical saddles on both bikes.

    The reach from my saddle on mtb to middle of grips is similar from same position on road saddle to bottom of hoods.

    I think I am measuring wrong will try again.

    I realise their is a position problem but I am trying to alleviate teh shoulder pain on both bikes.