Stitching tubulars

Skinner2k3
Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
edited March 2014 in Workshop
I have a tub I need to stitch back up, the original stitch was quite a complex looking thing that I don't think I am up to replicating by hand.

Anyone that repairs tubs, what stitch do you use?

The length I need to re-join is approx an inch. Was thinking a back stitch overlapping the original stitching by a stitch either end?

Cheers

Ben

Comments

  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    Ok unpicked a couple more to see what's going on and its a two thread stitch. Don't think I am going to try that!
  • balthazar
    balthazar Posts: 1,565
    I've never done it but this might help:

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/tubular-repair.html
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    That will do nicely. Time to google noose knot and loop stitch.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    Yes, you need to overlap the original to avoid it coming loose and I use an X pattern, which is safe and won't explode
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    What thread do you use and where do you buy it?
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    Here it gets a bit techy... at work I got hold of some kevlar thread as a sample from Dupont.... that's unbreakable. Otherwise get the strongest polyester thread you can get hold of. And get a sewing aisle if you care about your thumbs
    left the forum March 2023
  • JayKosta
    JayKosta Posts: 635
    I use heavy duty carpet / upholstry thread.
    I don't overlap, just stich in one direction, and then back again.
    Try to use the orginal holes in the casing.

    Use your fingers to 'pinch' the casing 'up and away' from the tube so you don't puncture with the needle.
    Use a metal thimble to push the needle - the casing can be very tough.

    Hours of fun....

    Jay Kosta
    Endwell NY USA
  • mm1
    mm1 Posts: 1,063
    Hours of fun...its all coming back to me. I haven't fixed a tub since the 1970's (Peter Burgin fixed the only one punctured since then). I seem to remember senior riders giving their old punctured tubs back in my youth, if you could fix it was yours. Also remember the velox glue that was used to reafix the base tape had all sorts of dire health warnings (benzine based, aromatic hydrocarbons are apparently deadly). After a while fixing knackered Wolbers I got quite good at it, so pracice is what counts, not sure I'd bother now.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    mm1 wrote:
    Hours of fun...its all coming back to me. I haven't fixed a tub since the 1970's (Peter Burgin fixed the only one punctured since then). I seem to remember senior riders giving their old punctured tubs back in my youth, if you could fix it was yours. Also remember the velox glue that was used to reafix the base tape had all sorts of dire health warnings (benzine based, aromatic hydrocarbons are apparently deadly). After a while fixing knackered Wolbers I got quite good at it, so pracice is what counts, not sure I'd bother now.

    Benzene is a known carcinogenic... you will be pleased to know it's ben added to "green petrol" as anti-detonant to replace the lead tetra-ethyl that was used before... which never killed anybody... :wink:
    left the forum March 2023
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    I was looking for Barge Cement after a bit of reading, couldn't find it but local shoe repair place knew it and had an alternative.

    What I don't have is a dry rim to instal the tire onto to set the base tape glue.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,355
    for thread, 30lb dacron backing line is good, several lifetime's supply for a few quid from angling suppliers, go for white or yellow as it's easier to see the stitches

    as above, i use the XXXXXX pattern with the 'pinched' casing, it looks like the pic on this site...

    1374488457.jpg

    ...pull the thread snug as you stitch, when fully inflated the pressure will flatten out the pinched bit

    i use a leather needle and a thimble
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    So diagonal stitch up and then come back crossing over to form the XXX?
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,355
    yep
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    Ta!
  • mm1
    mm1 Posts: 1,063
    Benzene is a known carcinogenic... you will be pleased to know it's ben added to "green petrol" as anti-detonant to replace the lead tetra-ethyl that was used before... which never killed anybody... :wink:[/quote]

    I did know that Ugo, causes liver cancer and once its in the body...my understanding is that when unleaded petrol was introduced, the trade was given very specific handling instructions (to wear gloves etc). Hey, ho, will I be undone by fixing tubs almost 40 years ago?
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    mm1 wrote:
    I did know that Ugo, causes liver cancer and once its in the body...my understanding is that when unleaded petrol was introduced, the trade was given very specific handling instructions (to wear gloves etc). Hey, ho, will I be undone by fixing tubs almost 40 years ago?

    Highly unlikely... people are scared of carcinogenic chemicals but they eat char grilled burgers and sausages which are way more likely to kill them in one of the dozen ways they can do that
    left the forum March 2023
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    Tub all stitched up. Seems I have managed it without poking the needle through the tube which is a bonus :lol:

    Bit concerned about the knots, is it worth putting a small dab of superglue on the knot so they wont come undone?

    Is there a way to re-glue the base tape that does not require a dry rim to put the tyre on and pressurise?

    I don’t have a spare rim!
  • JayKosta
    JayKosta Posts: 635
    Your regular rim should be ok. Just don't inflate to full pressure, only enough to seat the casing onto the base tape - and don't use too much glue on the tape.

    Next day remove the tire and scrape any loose bits of dried glue off the rim. Then apply a thin amount of new glue to the rim and LET IT DRY for whatever time is on the container (else you'll have an 'even worse' sticky mess...). Then seat the tire on the rim, partially inflate, spin wheel to see how the tire wobbles, use fingers to push the wobbley section so the tire spins straight. Then inflate to full pressure and wait until next day for the glue to dry.

    Regarding knots... I leave a 'tail of thread at the start of the stitching and sew over it. When finished, I weave another 'tail' under the new stitching - that makes using a small knot adequate.

    Other tips...
    When installing a new tire, FIRST dry-seat (no glue) it on a rim and fully inflate. Some tires are very tight getting onto the rim - I soak the base tape in water so it can stretch a little - makes it easier to dry-seat it. Remember this if you have a new tire as a spare and need to change it on the road.

    Be very careful when seating the tire on rim - start at the valve and work in both directions away from the valve. Be VERY careful to not pull on the valve stem - it can rip from the tube.

    Jay Kosta
    Endwell NY USA
  • Skinner2k3
    Skinner2k3 Posts: 310
    Thanks Jay.

    The tire is on the rim now. I applied glue to both the tire and the base tape and allowed to go tacky before lining the tape up and then mounting on the rim. I have noticed the edges of the base tape have lifted already where not within the area pressed against the rim. I will re glue the edges tomorrow to tidy them up.

    Cheers

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