Headset Cap and Bolt

navrig2
navrig2 Posts: 1,851
edited March 2014 in Road general
I am awaiting delivery of a headset and cap to add a bit of bling to the new bike.

The bolt is coloured to match the cap however it is anodized alloy and the confirmation email states:
IMPORTANT NOTE – the matching bolt that comes with your headset cap is made of Aluminium Alloy and is designed to be nipped up gently with a 4mm Allen/Hex Key – FINGER TIGHT ONLY please![/

Not sure that these bolts ought to be sold as headset bolts or am I missing something?

Comments

  • jibberjim
    jibberjim Posts: 2,810
    If you want more than a few Nm of torque on a headset bolt, you're probably doing something wrong.

    Also, if you really do, use a regular bolt when setting up, then remove it once you've done and replace it with the shiny one, all will be fine.
    Jibbering Sports Stuff: http://jibbering.com/sports/
  • navrig2
    navrig2 Posts: 1,851
    jibberjim wrote:
    If you want more than a few Nm of torque on a headset bolt, you're probably doing something wrong.

    Also, if you really do, use a regular bolt when setting up, then remove it once you've done and replace it with the shiny one, all will be fine.

    You just remined me of the advice I was given previously - tighten then unscrew and eighth of a turn.

    Makes sense now.

    Thanks.
  • rafletcher
    rafletcher Posts: 1,235
    Navrig2 wrote:
    I am awaiting delivery of a headset and cap to add a bit of bling to the new bike.

    The bolt is coloured to match the cap however it is anodized alloy and the confirmation email states:
    IMPORTANT NOTE – the matching bolt that comes with your headset cap is made of Aluminium Alloy and is designed to be nipped up gently with a 4mm Allen/Hex Key – FINGER TIGHT ONLY please![/

    Not sure that these bolts ought to be sold as headset bolts or am I missing something?

    You're missing something.

    The bolt you're talking about should only be used to nip up the headset bearings to remove play. Then you tighten your stem bolts around the steerer, and THAT holds everything together, so you should then loosen off the cap bolt. As you are presumably replacing an existing top cap without loosening the stem to steerer bolts, then finger tight is fine. If you at some time need to adjust/replace the headset, use an old cap with a SS bolt before putting your bling one on again.
  • ilovegrace
    ilovegrace Posts: 677
    daft question but here goes, how do you make sure you have the handle bars/stem at the right angle (or at a right angle !) to the headset, is this done by eye only ?
    regards
    ILG
  • navrig2
    navrig2 Posts: 1,851
    ilovegrace wrote:
    daft question but here goes, how do you make sure you have the handle bars/stem at the right angle (or at a right angle !) to the headset, is this done by eye only ?
    regards
    ILG

    That's how I have just done it. Initially stand with the front wheel between my legs and align it along the top tube, align the bars and hand the tighten stem bolts enough to hold in position. Standback and check alignment from front and rear then adjust or tighten bolts. Remember to check how it feels on the first ride.
  • ilovegrace
    ilovegrace Posts: 677
    Will do that tonight.
    Many thanks Navrig2
    regards
    ILG

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