Removing Rear Brake ?

mr_eddy
mr_eddy Posts: 830
edited March 2014 in Commuting general
Ok just a thought, Don't shoot me down just yet as at this stage its just a thought but would it be overly dangerous to remove a rear disc brake leaving just the front? Personally I don't think it would.

A bit of background info, The bike in question is my commuter - a 2013 Pinnacle Lithium 3 with Shimano mechanical discs (BRM375 I believe - 160mm 6 bolt rotor), I noticed the other day that my front disc pads were in need of replacement, I also noticed that the rear pads were hardly worn if at all.

Not surprising really as I brake using my front brake most of the time or at least put more force into the front brake lever. I would say at a guess at most my rear brake contributes maybe 15% tops to braking situations. Also I run slicks so when using just rear brake the rear tyre locks up before any real reduction in speed - This makes me think that they are not really that relevant.

This got me thinking about removing the rear brake completely, Whilst I know some out there will say that this is dangerous and to some extent this is a valid point but I used to ride my SS hack bike to work (I still do every now and then) which only has a single dual pivot SORA road brake up front and in all the miles I did on that I never once felt I needed a rear brake.

I don't cycle at all when there is ice on the road as in these situations I walk to work so that is not a major issue.

I am keen to get some input from someone who has done this or who indeed runs just a single brake up front, As we all know the best weight saving (above losing a few inches from around my belly) is rotational weight so basically wheels, and losing a steel rotor plus caliper and then also a rear lever and long cable I reckon would drop maybe 500-1000g off the total weight and it would cost me nothing but a bit of time.

I am also keen to get some advice on switching the front brake to a BB5/BB7 mechanical this way I could sell the complete Shimano brake set and then money should cover the cost of a BB5/BB7 or be close to the cost, By all accounts the BB5 brakes are far superior to Shimano's entry level mech discs. I could keep the current front brake lever as it is fully compatible with the BB5 or any other mech disc for that matter.

I am not too bothered about Hydraulic as its a commuter so I don't need trail stopping power or modulation. Nor do I want to mess about with getting a new lever and bleeding lines etc.

It goes beyond this tho as I would also save on brake pads and only 1 brake to maintain.

Thoughts ?

Comments

  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Bad idea.

    It is true that most of the braking is done by the front brake, but removing the rear brake is an insane idea - it does do some work and in some conditions it is safer to brake with the rear. Think about what would happen if the rear were to lock up. Not nice. But not half as bad as if the front were to lock up.

    By removing one brake you're reducing your overall stopping power and if youre not using the rear brake you're using the front more - so you won't really save on rear pads as the front ones will wear more.
    I recently noticed my brake pads were worn, interestingly the rears much more than the fronts. That's because I use the rears for slight braking like going downhill more than the front as its safer (and the rear is my right hand which is strgoner...)
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    I know Sheldon says you only need to brake with the front etc, but I find braking with both is superior, rim brakes mind.
  • mr_eddy
    mr_eddy Posts: 830
    Valid points, I will see if I can get some more opinions. I would not rush into anything, I may experiment a bit before going for anything permanent.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I have to ask - what is the advantage of removing the rear brake? If you want to not use, just not use it. Except in an emergency of course!
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
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  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    I wouldn't like to just use the front when its in wet conditions
  • jonnyboy77
    jonnyboy77 Posts: 547
    My front discs eat pads about 2x more quickly than the rear, but I wouldn't be without a rear brake.

    For example, earlier this year one of my front pads fell out after the split pin worked loose! I rode about 12 miles home on just the rear. I have now paid a lot more attention to how secure that split pin is!

    Like a few others mention, in the wet I barely touch the front brakes and use the rear more. In general/normal use I try and modulate a little bit of front & rear, and based on wear I'd say it works out at about 70/30 split f/r

    Also consider if (and I hope you/no one ever is) you were involved in an accident with a car or pedestrian and your bike is found to be running with only 1 working brake - law etc. aside, I think its likely more than a few accusatory fingers would point in your direction (rightly or wrongly).

    Short answer: No. ;)

    - Jon
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  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    It ain't a track bike...leave the brakes on!
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  • majormantra
    majormantra Posts: 2,094
    It's not a fixie, so no.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    It is an offence to now have 2 working brakes, on a fixie that can be the pedals for the rear, so if you are involved in an incident it would almost certainly be used against you.

    My rear disc setup weighs in at 416g (lever 60g (crosstop style), cable 66g (full length outer), calliper 196g (Clarkes CMD5), disc 82g (alligator) and bolts 12g), I could save a little more with a non disc hub rear wheel, so maybe squeezing the 500g you mention would be possible. If your parts are a lot heavier then why not just get lighter parts!

    The Shimano/BB callipers will be heavier than mine though, as much as twice as heavy. Hydraulic can be lighter (Magura Julies are about 250g which is a saving of 50g ish on the lever/cable/calliper setup I have).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    mr_eddy wrote:
    It goes beyond this tho as I would also save on brake pads and only 1 brake to maintain.

    Thoughts ?

    Aside from echoing the above comments that this is a terrible idea, how do you work out that you'd save on brake pads? You don't use more brake pads up just because you have two pairs on the bike rather than one. In reality, in the long term, you would actually not save any brake pads buy removing the rear.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    Rolf F wrote:
    mr_eddy wrote:
    It goes beyond this tho as I would also save on brake pads and only 1 brake to maintain.

    Thoughts ?

    Aside from echoing the above comments that this is a terrible idea, how do you work out that you'd save on brake pads? You don't use more brake pads up just because you have two pairs on the bike rather than one. In reality, in the long term, you would actually not save any brake pads buy removing the rear.

    Except that you wouldn't need to brake so heavily ... being 500g lighter .... ;)
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Slowbike wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    mr_eddy wrote:
    It goes beyond this tho as I would also save on brake pads and only 1 brake to maintain.

    Thoughts ?

    Aside from echoing the above comments that this is a terrible idea, how do you work out that you'd save on brake pads? You don't use more brake pads up just because you have two pairs on the bike rather than one. In reality, in the long term, you would actually not save any brake pads buy removing the rear.

    Except that you wouldn't need to brake so heavily ... being 500g lighter .... ;)

    Silly me! I just didn't think that one through.........

    Additionally, consider what happens when the brake cable breaks? It can happen......
    Faster than a tent.......
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Or like when I crashed and put the front wheel out of true; could just about ride but the front brake was useless, obviously.
  • bobbygloss
    bobbygloss Posts: 317
    Or if you're coming downhill to a junction, you need to signal and brake at the same time. Sometimes you don't have the option of always using the same hand for all braking.
  • mr_eddy
    mr_eddy Posts: 830
    Thanks for all the input, It was just a fact finding mission before anything else. In hindsight and taking on board the advice given I will stick with both brakes, I may switch to BB7 calipers and rotors tho all round instead as this would also save a bit of weight and by all accounts these brakes don't wear pads as easily.

    Thanks
  • goonz
    goonz Posts: 3,106
    #brakesaredeath
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  • damocles10
    damocles10 Posts: 340
    Both brakes would be the best solution...Like you say mr_eddy. I mostly use the front brake as this is the most effective at stopping......I while back I nearly went in to the back of a bus using the rear brake as it just locked the wheel and skidded. It also saves on rim wear, it's far cheaper to replace one wheel than two.