When to replace a chainring

veterangaz

Hi, My gears are starting to skip slightly so I think I need to change the chain and cassette and possibly the chainring as well. How do you tell what needs replacing though, it may just be the chain. I don't mind changing the chain and cassette but from what I can tell the chainrings are a lot more expensive and I am not sure what tools are required either. I would want to keep the cranks I guess.

Thanks

markhewitt1978

Well there's an obvious course? Change the chain and cassette and see if it helps?

veterangaz

I was just concerned that if the chainrings are slightly worn out it may mean the new chain can be damaged and in turn the new cassette could be worn out quickly as well? I know if I take it to my local LBS they will just say it all needs replacing and charge me full price for the parts when I can get them slightly cheaper online.

markhewitt1978

You would be able to tell within a couple of rides if the chainrings need replacing, you won't damage your new chain much in that time.

drlodge

A cassette should last about 3 chains, a chainring longer. How many miles has it done?

veterangaz

Only about 1200 miles since new so I guess I can just try replacing the chain for now and see what happens.

navrig2

I would not expect to replace anything after 1200 miles unless the chain had been very badly neglected.

navrig2

Check that the indexing is correct. Also worth checking the chain for seized links.

At most all you should have to replace is the chain - £20.

drlodge

Navrig2 wrote:

I would not expect to replace anything after 1200 miles unless the chain had been very badly neglected.

Indeed, I'm just replacing the chains on both my bikes and they've each done about 3000 miles. I would hope the cassettes last about 10,000 miles and the chainrings longer than that.

veterangaz

Will put my hands up, my names Joe and I am a bad cycle looker-after. Not cleaned as well as it should have been for the first few months. It was my commuter bike and only cleaned it at weekends. I didn't have much passion for cycling back then but now I love looking after it more but their are specs of rust on the back of the chain ring, just not the teeth themselves. Also, when some house renovations were happening it had to be stored outside under a rain cover which never protect them 100% when they are blowing up in the wind.

navrig2

veterangaz wrote:

Will put my hands up, my names Joe and I am a bad cycle looker-after. Not cleaned as well as it should have been for the first few months. It was my commuter bike and only cleaned it at weekends. I didn't have much passion for cycling back then but now I love looking after it more but their are specs of rust on the back of the chain ring, just not the teeth themselves. Also, when some house renovations were happening it had to be stored outside under a rain cover which never protect them 100% when they are blowing up in the wind.

In that case it is likely to be the chain.

You need to clean the crap off the chain, lubricate it with some proper chain oil and then manipulate each link looking for stiff one!!

Or bite the bullet and replace it.

keef66

Get a chain checking tool, and if it shows the chain's worn beyond 0.75% but not yet 1% just replace the chain. If the new chain skips on the old cassette, change the cassette too.

If the checker shows it's beyond 1% chances are you need a new cassette anyway.

Chainrings should be fine for years

veterangaz

My cassette is 11-32 which doesn't seem that common. I am not that great on hills so would want a similar one as apparently they are better suited. Would a 11-28 make much difference as wiggle sell these.

drlodge

veterangaz wrote:

My cassette is 11-32 which doesn't seem that common. I am not that great on hills so would want a similar one as apparently they are better suited. Would a 11-28 make much difference as wiggle sell these.

If you need that 32 tooth sprocket for the hills, an 11-28 will make climbing alot harder. If you don't need it, you'll get slightly closer ratios which is an advantage.

veterangaz

Can just get fitter and try and do hills with a 11-28, not like I am cycling up Everest every weekend. My current chainring set is FSA Omega BB30, 50/34. So will replace the chain and cassette with:-


SRAM PG1070 10 Speed Cassette - Road
11-28 Silver
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SRAM PC1091R 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain - 114 Links
SRAM PC1091R 10 Speed Hollow Pin Chain - 114 Links
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Sprool

veterangaz wrote:

My cassette is 11-32 which doesn't seem that common. I am not that great on hills so would want a similar one as apparently they are better suited. Would a 11-28 make much difference as wiggle sell these.

My new carbon Canyon came with an 11-32 block on a compact crank (50/34) - I was happy since I rode an Alu triple before and theres big hills round my way. After a few rides I realise the bike is so much easier uphill I'm never going to use the 32 cog so have swapped out for an 11-28 - better range of closer gears for cruising. There's only a couple of evil 20% gradient sections round my way that really hurt on a 28 cog, but they are short enough to muscle through it. The long climbs are 8 - 12% gradient and a 28 is ok for that.