RD problems

kingofthetailwind
kingofthetailwind Posts: 575
edited March 2014 in Workshop
Half way into work this morning I realised that a baby wipe or something similar (boke) had gotten wound round both jockey wheels of my rear derailleur.

It wouldn't budge so I had to take the chain off and pull the baby wipe out bit by bit, as carefully as possible. Pretty sure I've gotten it all out. I then refitted the chain. Due to SRAM Powerlink (grrrrr!) and chain tool issues the chain is now one link shorter.

It's shifting fine, and seems normal when I run the chain backwards. The cage looks aligned and the jockey wheels look fine too. But when pedalling there is a rattling noise, louder when pedalling faster.

Any ideas what the problem coule be? Damaged jockey wheels?

Comments

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Is the chain definitely routed properly through the rear mech? I have in the past hastily reassembled a bike and managed to route the chain outside one of the little tabs on the rear mech. Very annoying when you've spent an age wrestling a recalcitrant quick link.
  • kingofthetailwind
    kingofthetailwind Posts: 575
    keef66 wrote:
    recalcitrant quick link.

    Perfect description! Easy on, impossible off.

    The routing look fine. :?
  • kwozzymodo
    kwozzymodo Posts: 45
    Have you run the chain the wrong side of the lug on the jockey wheel cage between the guide and tension wheels? That would sound like a permanent rattle when the chain is moving.
  • kingofthetailwind
    kingofthetailwind Posts: 575
    Yeah, that's what I've done. Another rookie error! I think you're both describing the same problem.

    Should be able to fix it and still get out for my hill training on the way home. If I can just find someone that can open SRAM Powerlinks!

    Thanks for the replies, really appreciated.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Yep, that's what I was attempting to describe!

    I don't mind admitting defeat, and it was the night I wasted 45 minutes in a freezing garage that I resolved to buy myself a pair of quick link pliers. Possibly the best cycling tool I own.
  • kingofthetailwind
    kingofthetailwind Posts: 575
    Yeah, they're on my (long) to buy list!

    I have a pair of needle nose pliers in my desk. If I can't do it by hand I'll try those. I've a few spare Powerlinks in case I damage one.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,821
    Somewhere on this here interweb thing are instructions on how to remove a stubborn quick link when out without tools. Hard to describe accurately, but it basically involves holding the chain against a rock in such a way that the quick link (and the link next to it) stand up making in an inverted V then you hit the top with another rock forcing the quick link apart. Sounds a bit brutal and I suspect the chances of damage are high so make sure you have a spare quick link.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    KingOfTheTailwind wrote:
    Yeah, that's what I've done. Another rookie error! I think you're both describing the same problem.

    Should be able to fix it and still get out for my hill training on the way home. If I can just find someone that can open SRAM Powerlinks!

    Thanks for the replies, really appreciated.

    Can't you just remove the jockey wheel/s to free the chain? Save messing with the chain.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Veronese68 wrote:
    Somewhere on this here interweb thing are instructions on how to remove a stubborn quick link when out without tools. Hard to describe accurately, but it basically involves holding the chain against a rock in such a way that the quick link (and the link next to it) stand up making in an inverted V then you hit the top with another rock forcing the quick link apart. Sounds a bit brutal and I suspect the chances of damage are high so make sure you have a spare quick link.

    You can do this with a trick doing it on the front chainring from what I have seen,
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    zx6man wrote:
    Veronese68 wrote:
    Somewhere on this here interweb thing are instructions on how to remove a stubborn quick link when out without tools. Hard to describe accurately, but it basically involves holding the chain against a rock in such a way that the quick link (and the link next to it) stand up making in an inverted V then you hit the top with another rock forcing the quick link apart. Sounds a bit brutal and I suspect the chances of damage are high so make sure you have a spare quick link.

    You can do this with a trick doing it on the front chainring from what I have seen,

    Yep, just hitch part of the chain forward one tooth on the big chainring so the quick link forms one side of the resulting A shape, then whack the apex with a rock.
  • kwozzymodo
    kwozzymodo Posts: 45
    Undo the bolt holding the bottom jockey wheel and remove. Split the 2 sides of the cage apart and re-route the chain. Put the bottom jockey wheel back, re-align the cage and re-thread the bolt.
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,821
    zx6man wrote:
    Veronese68 wrote:
    Somewhere on this here interweb thing are instructions on how to remove a stubborn quick link when out without tools. Hard to describe accurately, but it basically involves holding the chain against a rock in such a way that the quick link (and the link next to it) stand up making in an inverted V then you hit the top with another rock forcing the quick link apart. Sounds a bit brutal and I suspect the chances of damage are high so make sure you have a spare quick link.

    You can do this with a trick doing it on the front chainring from what I have seen,
    Yes, that's it. I was being thick. pull one side of the quick link one tooth closer then bash it with a rock. I knew rocks were involved, I just got carried away with Fred Flintstone repairs.
    Kinesis Pro6
    Marin Nail Trail
    Cotic Solaris

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