Advice on upgrades...

rossanderson
rossanderson Posts: 7
edited March 2014 in MTB buying advice
Hi folks.

Have been lurking and reading posts for a while now and have just signed up. I'm a well built, 6'4" bloke, and am riding a Specialized Rockhopper 29er. I'm looking at upgrading a few bits on the bike and would like some advice from people with more experience than me. I'm thinking that handlebars and stem would be a good start, but with the hope of better breaks and drivetrain soon. In respect to handlebars, maybe 750mm - 785mm? any advice would be really appreciated. I'm mainly riding XC, with no big DH.......yet.

Thanks Ross

Comments

  • mcnultycop
    mcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    How wide are the bars that are on? Do they not feel right?

    750mm are pretty wide and generally considered more for pointing downhill stuff than XC.
  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    What model rockhopper?

    That said, you don't want to be doing downhill on any of them.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

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  • Base model. Forks willl be an upgrade soon aswell.

    its got a flat bar, double-butted 6061 alloy, 700mm wide, 10-degree backsweep, 4-degree upsweep, 31.8mm at the mo. just feels a bit uncomfortably narrow. i have very wide shoulders.
  • kajjal
    kajjal Posts: 3,380
    Unless there is anything causing you problems I would just replace what wears out unless you fancy a project.

    I have been mountain biking since the early 1990's and today's bikes have much better brakes and suspension than the ones we used to ride down rocky tracks in the middle of nowhere ;)
  • Cqc
    Cqc Posts: 951
    These bars are a good start- there's an 785mm option too but that's way OTT in my opinion http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/funn ... -prod91521
    An air fork would be a good upgrade too
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Only upgrade things which are causing you problems or you don't like. Bars and stem are very personal choices and need to suit you and your riding style. Other people can't really advise you on what width bars or stem length you need.
  • Well I'm gonna need to look at the forks soon. I'm having a stiffer spring put in as I'm currently using all of the 100mm travel. Over time I want it to become a project but haven't got the budget to spend a lot in one go. But would be happy spending about 200 quid a month.
  • Bars are very personal. I have gone slightly wider and shortened the stem on mine . It suits me. Best upgrades by far have been new wheels and xo shifters . Even a decent set of tyres can have a big impact. It's taken over 2 years to get my bike how I want it.
  • chrisw333
    chrisw333 Posts: 695
    What tyre are on it? That's where I would usually start.

    Then save for a better fork.

    750mm is wide for an xc bar.
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    chrisw333 wrote:
    What tyre are on it? That's where I would usually start.

    Then save for a better fork.

    750mm is wide for an xc bar.

    I use 780mm bars on my xc bike. It's a very personal set up. I couldn't ever go back to narrower than 720mm. It also depends on your definition of xc.
  • The tires are still stock at the moment. What tires would folks recommend for a 29er?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    For what sort of riding on what sort of terrain, do you go out when it's wet and muddy or are you more a fair weather rider, do rocks and or roots feature where you ride, all day jaunts or shorter flat out blasts?

    Black and round is good though!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jon1993
    jon1993 Posts: 596
    Unless there is anyone one particular thing causing you an issue don't change it let it wear out then replace with newer better components.

    First place I always start with a new bike is tyres as the ones that come on factory bikes generally go for the big named tyres e.g. mountain king II or Nobby Nics but they put on the hard rubbish compounds that have no grip so, get some specific to what you use it for its the cheapest big difference you can make along with saving weight in the most influential performance effecting part of the bike.

    Second is suspension (if its rubbish) get something that's half decent and air sprung. I wouldn't go any lower down
    the spec than recon as there performance is rubbish, my reba's are amazing wouldn't change them for anything now I have seen Rebas in 29er for £250 on sale of chain reaction may be worth looking second hand can get some amazing bargains.

    You said about upgrading brakes if they aren't hydraulic then definitely upgrade! before suspension even they make a massive difference although if you already have hydraulics the braking power doesn't increase with more expensive XC based brakes I don't think they just get lighter. Maybe a bigger front rotor would help if that's the case?

    SPD's are great to if you don't have them take some getting use to though.

    As for other components I really wouldn't bother until they wear out to slight of a difference to warrant the money in my opinion.
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  • The Rookie wrote:
    For what sort of riding on what sort of terrain, do you go out when it's wet and muddy or are you more a fair weather rider, do rocks and or roots feature where you ride, all day jaunts or shorter flat out blasts?

    Black and round is good though!

    I like black and round too. Coincidence...? I'm out in all weather really. Wet and windy at the moment. just looking for a decent set of all rounders.
    jon1993 wrote:
    Unless there is anyone one particular thing causing you an issue don't change it let it wear out then replace with newer better components.

    First place I always start with a new bike is tyres as the ones that come on factory bikes generally go for the big named tyres e.g. mountain king II or Nobby Nics but they put on the hard rubbish compounds that have no grip so, get some specific to what you use it for its the cheapest big difference you can make along with saving weight in the most influential performance effecting part of the bike.

    Second is suspension (if its rubbish) get something that's half decent and air sprung. I wouldn't go any lower down
    the spec than recon as there performance is rubbish, my reba's are amazing wouldn't change them for anything now I have seen Rebas in 29er for £250 on sale of chain reaction may be worth looking second hand can get some amazing bargains.

    You said about upgrading brakes if they aren't hydraulic then definitely upgrade! before suspension even they make a massive difference although if you already have hydraulics the braking power doesn't increase with more expensive XC based brakes I don't think they just get lighter. Maybe a bigger front rotor would help if that's the case?

    SPD's are great to if you don't have them take some getting use to though.

    As for other components I really wouldn't bother until they wear out to slight of a difference to warrant the money in my opinion.

    Currently already running the original Tektro Hydraulics, and SPD's. Really the fork is my issue. I'm 6' 4" and 275lb. I'm nearly bottoming out the Suntour fork that came with the bike. Having a stiffer spring put in at the weekend to see if that can do the job while I find a better fork.
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    Well I'm gonna need to look at the forks soon. I'm having a stiffer spring put in as I'm currently using all of the 100mm travel. Over time I want it to become a project but haven't got the budget to spend a lot in one go. But would be happy spending about 200 quid a month.

    Personally i would save your 200 a month up, then when you know how you really ride and what excited you then upgrade parts or more liekly buy a new bike and sell the old one.

    its a short travel bike and if you get into more aggressive riding its always going to feel very steep and unispired to ride, if you find yourself becoming very distance and speed orientated they you will know to go for light bits and so on. My advise play the waiting game on it.
  • Cqc
    Cqc Posts: 951
    Well I'm gonna need to look at the forks soon. I'm having a stiffer spring put in as I'm currently using all of the 100mm travel. Over time I want it to become a project but haven't got the budget to spend a lot in one go. But would be happy spending about 200 quid a month.

    Personally i would save your 200 a month up, then when you know how you really ride and what excited you then upgrade parts or more liekly buy a new bike and sell the old one.

    its a short travel bike and if you get into more aggressive riding its always going to feel very steep and unispired to ride, if you find yourself becoming very distance and speed orientated they you will know to go for light bits and so on. My advise play the waiting game on it.
    +1
  • FishFish
    FishFish Posts: 2,152
    A lot being said which is good food for thought. Two themes though - performance and size. Why not get someone fit the bike for you - they will sort out the seat hight and position on the rails. This may require a new stem and or bar. With the bike fitting you you can get started with the upgrades.
    ...take your pickelf on your holibobs.... :D

    jeez :roll:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Bike fit is a roadie thing, pretty irrelevant to MTB where it is more about what feels right when you are riding than what feels right sat in a store.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thewaylander
    Thewaylander Posts: 8,594
    FishFish wrote:
    A lot being said which is good food for thought. Two themes though - performance and size. Why not get someone fit the bike for you - they will sort out the seat hight and position on the rails. This may require a new stem and or bar. With the bike fitting you you can get started with the upgrades.

    Yarp fitting on a mtb is utter pish(using a new scottish we all learnt). the rider position is far ro fluid for it to work compared to a road bike.
  • thanks guys. all really helpful stuff. Had a stiffer coil fitted the other day and it does feel quite a bit better for now. Think ill probably leave everything as is at the moment and see how i get on. although tyres might be a place to start as im running on the stock tyres that came with the bike (Specialized Ground Control Sport, 29x2.1", wire bead, 60TPI) which are nothing special.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    They aren't bad tyres, but are a bit heavy!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.