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  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    Cheers for that Marcus,
    I know its a personal thing but I'm happy with just gels on any run up to 12 hours. Fingers crossed that I should complete 100 miler in less time lol But at the aid stations is it your flapjacks and jelly babies etc like at a running aid station?

    If you know that gels work for you for 12 hours, you are likely to not face too many issues for what should be less than half that time. Half of the battle in riding long distances is learning about looking after your body for food and liquid. You probably know more than most cyclists what works, so you shouldn't have too many challenges.

    I haven't ridden a sportive for a number of years - but, yes, from what I remember things like flapjacks, bananas etc.
    Stuff about riding a bike a long way
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    Cheers for that Marcus,
    I know its a personal thing but I'm happy with just gels on any run up to 12 hours. Fingers crossed that I should complete 100 miler in less time lol But at the aid stations is it your flapjacks and jelly babies etc like at a running aid station?

    They usually call them feed stations, but yeah, flapjack, jelly beans, bananas, more gels.
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Cool,
    Hopefully with all the good advice and tips, sorting out my bike this week, i'll be well on my way. Still feel daft on a cheapo bike...might have to remedy that soon :-)
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Nobody will notice you on a cheap bike, that will be the majority. Some people will notice if it's a very expensive bike!
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Agggh another question........
    Whats meant by 'standard 52-42 double rings at the front but a 14-28 cassette at the back'?
    Also just looking into it but I only got 14 gears lol?? Whats the norm?
    Just trying to compare to other possible new buys in the future.
    Plus how much difference does 4kg make on a bike when I weigh 79 to begin with!
  • thefd
    thefd Posts: 1,021
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    Agggh another question........
    Whats meant by 'standard 52-42 double rings at the front but a 14-28 cassette at the back'?
    Also just looking into it but I only got 14 gears lol?? Whats the norm?
    Just trying to compare to other possible new buys in the future.
    Plus how much difference does 4kg make on a bike when I weigh 79 to begin with!
    Standard chainsets use 53/39 on the front - where as a compact uses 50/34. The 53 or 50 ring is a higher gear, the 39 or 34 is the lower gear. On a steep hill the 34 will make it easier than the 39.

    The 14-28 cassette means that the 28 is the lower gear (easier for going up a hill, and is the biggest cog) and the 14 is the higher gear for going faster on the flat or down hill. So the best combination for you for a hill is the small cog on the front - 42 - and the biggest cog on the back - 28 - and the opposite for downhill would work best.

    Newer bikes have 10 or 11 cogs on the back and usually just 2 on the front, although you can get a triple not the front.
    2017 - Caadx
    2016 - Cervelo R3
    2013 - R872
    2010 - Spesh Tarmac
  • thefd
    thefd Posts: 1,021
    Make sure you don't 'cross the chain' - that means put it on the big ring and the biggest cog or the smallest ring and the smallest cog - it puts more pressure on the chain because it is working diagonally and wears the cassette and the chain quicker!
    2017 - Caadx
    2016 - Cervelo R3
    2013 - R872
    2010 - Spesh Tarmac
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Cheers for that.
    Been out for 45 minutes and tried concentrating a bit more on what gears to use and where etc. With my set up and on relatively lumpy roads, I don't seem to be using hardly any gears apart from 1-6. I've found myself in 2 quite alot and even then my legs arn't spinning as much as I would have thought in 2nd gear!
    52-42 double rings at the front,14-28 cassette at the back. So ideally I'd have to think about changing bikes and looking for better gearing. Or is it me just being a bit crap. What would you guys think about the above set up?
    I have found dropping a gear when originally I would have stayed in a certain gear benficial and over a longer hillier distance I added 2mph to my average speed. So it seems like gearing has a massive role to play
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Confused as to what you actually mean here by gears 1-6? That could mean your hardest or your easiest gears? Best to describe where your chain is back and front. In general with bicycle gearing you're looking to keep your cadence relatively constant by shifting down when it gets too hard and shifting up when you start spinning out, so that your pedalling stays the same, it's your speed on the road which varies. Mostly impossible to maintain on steep climbs but it's something to aim for.

    42/28 = your bottom gear has a ratio of 1.5, which is on the high side of things but not impossible by any means.
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Sorry lol
    1-6 1 being bottom easiest lowest gear:-)
    Good to hear I'm not up against it with my bottom gear, just means i need more miles in the legs :-) It's hard to tell whether it's me thats terrible or the bike. I can sort it out if its me so thats not a problem :-)
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    And that's on the smallest chainring on the front and the biggest on the back right? (Sorry if it sounds obvious but need to be clear!)

    If you're managing in bottom gear then I wouldn't worry too much, just keep pedalling and occasionally shift up - quite often I'm cycling along thinking I'm turning the biggest gear I can but then try shifting up to a harder gear and turns out I can pedal that one no problem!

    If you're in bottom gear and the pedals are still too hard to turn then you need to look at your gearing options - which tbh are limited.
  • ai_1
    ai_1 Posts: 3,060
    A 42 tooth small chainring is going to hurt you if you try any big and/or steep hills! If you don't live in a hilly area you might get away with it for the time being. Being an experienced ultra runner I'm assuming you're not carrying much weight?! That'll help on the hills and will help you get away with the 52/42.
    Generally a compact double with 50/34 is ideal for most people. I currently use a triple 50/39/30 with 12-27 at the back so my easiest gear is a LOT easier than yours (1.11 versus 1.5). I don't think I could survive some of the routes I cycle or some of the sportives I've done with your setup.
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Ah lol
    Interesting to hear that Ai.
    I was wondering whther I was just making a meal out of the smaller hills or whether the lowest gear was a bit tasty. It does seem when shifting up its a heck of a jump. Something in the middle would be more beneficial. So from what I have heard it seems as though the gearing is a bit naff. Certainly no point in paying to change it. So might be a new bike. At least I know what I am looking out for now so to speak. Alternatively if I stuck with this bike for a while and chopped it over to something light weight and a bit better i'd be a heck of a lot faster?
    Mark without looking I am not sure how the chain set up looks. I'll have a nosey later
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    edited March 2014
    Certainly 42T is a big small gear - if you see what I mean. I, like many, run a compact chainset so 34T is my small ring, and I have a 30T on the back, so I can spin up almost any hill. If I had 42/27 there would be some hills I just couldn't climb at all, I'd have to walk up. To give you some idea, your lowest gear is the same as be being in the big ring on the front with the easiest gear on the back.
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Thats mental.
    I did wonder why when watching other cyclists go up a hill there legs spinning like a gooden, but me I just couldn't do it for love nor money. Good enough excuse for a nice new bike :-)
  • ai_1
    ai_1 Posts: 3,060
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    Thats mental.
    I did wonder why when watching other cyclists go up a hill there legs spinning like a gooden, but me I just couldn't do it for love nor money. Good enough excuse for a nice new bike :-)
    Yep, if you've the budget for a new bike then this is an excellent excuse, I mean reason, to get one!
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    It seems you want a new bike - The bike you have is terrible, fit only for the skip, the internet told you to get a new bike ;)
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    As long as its the internet telling me to do it I think I might :-)
  • ai_1
    ai_1 Posts: 3,060
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    As long as its the internet telling me to do it I think I might :-)
    It would be irresponsible not to!
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Just get something with a compact crank (50/34) or a triple chainset and you'll be fine :)
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Here we go again. Money really is limited as I have just spent 3000£ on new diving kit :-s So I really have minimal money to chuck about and was thinking about the Btwin Triban
    Group Set: Prowheel Ounce triple chainset; Shimano 2300
    Something like that?
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    tbh 2300 is ok but it's old now and has thumb button shifting which isn't ideal. You should be looking at at least 2400 (Claris).

    What's your toppermost budget?
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    At the moment I don't in the fact that I don't have a penny to spend but could claw together perhaps 400-450 max. Been looking at ebay etc but no luck
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    I was hoping you'd say that, here you go http://www.wiggle.co.uk/felt-f95-sora-wiggle-exclusive/
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    Hi all,
    Been toying with so many ideas and just checking my options.
    Gave the bike a good clean changed the tyres etc Now the bloody gears arn't changing properly. I get the dreaded clicking until after a while it clicks into to place.... Anyhoo my cassette is 14-28. Could I buy a different one to make it slightly easier to climb hills. I've looked on the forum and its melted my brain. If I could whay would I go for and how much of a job is it? Do I have to start messing around with the chain and other bits for it to fit etc. I just thought doing this then sorting the clicking out at the same time
    Any thoughts much appreciated, please keep it simple as I am simple :-)
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,160
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    Here we go again. Money really is limited as I have just spent 3000£ on new diving kit :-s So I really have minimal money to chuck about and was thinking about the Btwin Triban
    Group Set: Prowheel Ounce triple chainset; Shimano 2300
    Something like that?

    That's a very expensive pair of budgie smugglers.
  • ultrarunnerlee
    ultrarunnerlee Posts: 55
    They are carbon fibre with a titanium cod piece
  • Mad_Malx
    Mad_Malx Posts: 5,160
    ultrarunnerlee wrote:
    They are carbon fibre with a titanium cod piece

    :D

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