Replacing old 105 brake calipers

Hi,
I've got a set of rather old (about 5 at a guess) 105 brakes on my Boardman Team road bike they were second hand and a vast improvement on the stock ones that came with the bike.
Would I notice a big difference in stopping performance with a new set of 105s or Ultegras?
Thanks
I've got a set of rather old (about 5 at a guess) 105 brakes on my Boardman Team road bike they were second hand and a vast improvement on the stock ones that came with the bike.
Would I notice a big difference in stopping performance with a new set of 105s or Ultegras?
Thanks
0
Posts
Looks like I'm looking at Sram.
It maybe worth just swapping your pads for some swissstop pads because there's nothing wrong with 105.
Must be used in conjunction with ST-5700, ST-6700 or ST-7900 STIs for correct leverage ratio
I've got some swiss stop pads and they make a huge difference to the stock ones. I think the problem is that I'm used to discs on the MTBs and they stop you!
I struggle to believe these statements as anything other than Shimano cobblers designed to con people into buying new calipers. You pull the lever a certain amount. That moves the cable a certain amount (that movement being dependant on how far the cable pivot is from the lever pivot).
The cable then moves the caliper arm the same amount which translates to a movement of the brake block onto the rim - that movement being determined by how far the cable clamp on the caliper is from the pivot and how far the brake block is from the pivot.
None of these variables have that much potential to change much. Unless there is some radical design change in the mechs, I can't see that it matters in the slightest what caliper you use with what lever. Any variation would be got used to within about five minutes on the road. Or has anyone used the wrong calipers with the wrong levers and found that they keep going over the handlebars or into the backs of buses?
I suppose the key thing is.... there any point in changing my 5600 series 105s for a set of new fancy Sram (or Shimano if they work) or is there very little performance difference?
I'm not looking to spend money just to make the bike look pretty or 30g lighter.
If not, leave them on.
If so, what pads are you using? When did you last change the cables?
I've not ridden another road bike in years so don't know what I should really be expecting from rim brakes these days.
I've got SwissStop Green pads, which should be pretty good. The cables have not been changed for every, so that could be a good call. If I'm doing it, I'm assuming I should to inners and outers to get the most benefit.
I change inners around every 8-10000km and outers 15-20000km
As said above, new pads, new cables (inner and outer) should be a better, and cheaper improvement.
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If you don't like your brake performance don't change the calipers yet, that's stage 3, first 2 stages are pads and cables as suggested above.
If your rims are alu, clean your rims with a green abrasive plastic wool (like a kitchen sponge) and dish-soap. Then try Swiss-Stop Green pads which are their high performance alu compound.
When you move to your brake cables, cut them as short as possible while allowing 180 degrees of front wheel movement in the frame. A lot of store-bought bikes have quite flowey cables that can cause squishy braking.
Also, when re-taping your bars, make sure your brake levers are in the 'correct' part of the bar. Without seeing your bike set up, sometimes an over-rotated bar can lead to a situation where you have to really censored your wrists on a funny angle that reduces your hand power. Make sure you tick this box when you remove the old tape. Nothing wrong with doing a ride or 2 with no tape and a long 5mm allen key in your pocket to make running adjustments.
Also as Frans suggested I'm going to make sure I've got optimum leaver position so I'm getting the most out of what I've got.
Sorry I know this goes against everything that cycling stands for.. I.E. Spending money when every you can.
You must be careful spreading rumours like that, you will be black-balled by every bike shop in the land.