Winter MEKK needs better breaks

Tuc

Hi I’ve just purchased an entry level MEKK for winter and the breaks are shocking can someone please let me know what would be a good budget break to use as an upgrade.

Cheers

D

freezing77

Adajch1234 wrote:

Hi I’ve just purchased an entry level MEKK for winter and the breaks are shocking can someone please let me know what would be a good budget break to use as an upgrade.

Cheers

D

The first thing I would do is ensure that your current setup is optimal. i.e. the correct amount of travel on the brake levers, the brake pads are setup correctly. Perhaps give the pads a rub with sandpaper to take the manufacturing gloss off.

If this does not improve things look at getting softer pads such as koolstops or swisssstops.

For info what brake levers and calipers do you have fitted?

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/kool-stop-dura-aceultegra105-pair-of-cartridge-inserts/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=uk&kpid=5300042095

freebs

Shimano 105 are great brakes for the price.

Tuc

thanks guys,, will make sure the setup is correct first if that don't solve things the 105 's could be the way forwards

All the best D

Tuc

ref the brake levers and calipers I'm not sure the link below may help

http://www.mekkbicycles.com/Mekk-Pinerolo-AL-ZR.aspx

wishitwasallflat

Fit Koolstop Salmon pads instead of what's there before you do anything else. I did that on my bike and was amazed at the improvement - never felt any need to change the actual brakes after that.

rickeverett

yeah the callipers themselves wont be crap. Its a combination of things.

better pads and optimal set-up will work wonders. You may also have a lot of give in the cables or leavers.
also look at how close they are to the rim and if the pads are aligned correctly with maximum contact.

simon_masterson

If you get down in the drops and apply your front brake forcefully, does the bike stop hard? If it doesn't, you shouldn't be riding the bike. I'm inclined to assume that it's user error before inadequate calipers though, in this day and age. Believe me, if you have never ridden in torrential rain on a bike with steel rimmed wheels and Weinmann brakes, you have absolutely no idea what bad braking is.

But in all seriousness, once you've checked that the caliper is set up properly, you might need better pads, as stock ones are often rubbish. It's friction - what matters most is the surfaces involved; this means you should be cleaning the rims as well. Road brakes aren't like MTB brakes either, as the contact patch is much smaller. If you put overpowerful brakes on a road bike, you would just lock the wheel; you need to brake effectively.

Tuc

Thanks All for your advice Guys,, being new to this sport I need as much advice as possible, guess I’m used to Brembo breaks on two wheels :shock:

Loving my bikes even if they dodn't have an engine, thanks again and happy riding Dudes..

larkim

Sorry, I know its bad form to correct grammar / spelling.

But they are brakes, not breaks. And they are levers, not leavers.

Here endeth the lesson...

sammmrobertss

I've got shimano 105 on my mekk winter training.

crankycrank

Tuc wrote:

Thanks All for your advice Guys,, being new to this sport I need as much advice as possible, guess I’m used to Brembo breaks on two wheels :shock:

I know what you mean, you'll never get that kind of stopping power from bike brakes and tyre grip being another thing bikes lose out on big time to motorbikes, no dragging your knee in turns. As mentioned, you'll notice a big improvement with either the Koolstop brand "Salmon" pads or Swisstop "Green" and the newer/better? but more expensive "blue" pads.

Tuc

thanks for the heads up, guess I'm not going to need my knee sliders this year, all the best

racingcondor

Also worth mentioning that cartridge brakes are much better than one piece. Examples -

Cartridge http://www.swissstop.ch/Images/SwissStopImages/width800/FullFlashPro_OriginalBlack.jpg

One-Piece http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ashima-v-brake-70mm-one-piece-brake-shoe/ (admittedly these are V brake so not the same but you get the idea)

Having a seperate metal cartridge lets you set them up once, rather than every time you replace them and provides a less flexible brake surface so improves modulation (how progressive the braking is, pull harder, get more power rather than on/off grabbyness).