1x10 ring size?

princeisking
princeisking Posts: 13
edited February 2014 in MTB buying advice
Okay so I am going to have a crack at a 1x10 setup but the question is what size ring? Currently running 38/26 and 11-36 at the back but I hardly ever use the granny. I think I could manage with something in between the two but do I go 32t or 34t? Just need a few ideas to help me decide (would be using the Works ring)

Comments

  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Personal. I ran (and liked) 36, but plenty of people using 30/32/34.
  • 97th choice
    97th choice Posts: 2,222
    Running 34 with 11-36, It's a bit of a slog up steeper slopes but also helps build the fitness.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    As above it's a personal thing, depends on where you ride, how you ride and level of fitness.
    I use mostly a 34t but do have a 32t as an option as it takes minutes to swap over.
  • Thanks all think I'll go 34t first off and take it from there. Anyone using Works Components ring? Or have a preference?
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    Thanks all think I'll go 34t first off and take it from there. Anyone using Works Components ring? Or have a preference?

    Yep my 32t is a Works Components ring and it is much better than my RaceFace Narrow Wide, it has longer teeth and cut better, less noisy and clears mud better. Plus it's cheaper.
  • I really like the absolute black rings, be aware most rings don't play well with kmc chains currently because the rollers are a touch larger.
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    I use KMC chains with no problems at all on 3 bikes with single rings.
  • You will see more dropped chains on single ring (no chain guide obviously) setups using kmc chains. Particularly in filthy conditions, get some calipers and measure the chains. Speak to the guys who make these rings. It's a known issue and kmc are working to rectify it.

    The chains still work but the performance isn't as solid
  • WindyG
    WindyG Posts: 1,099
    Never dropped a chain yet and I don't take it easy and no guide or clutch mech, first I've heard of this issue, maybe for those doing DH.
  • I am runnind a 675 slx clutch mech but it's sgs. Now I did a little research and replacement cage parts (gs) are available and can be had through lbs for £15. Question is do I need to run the shorter cage? Or can I use the sgs cage? I realise the gs will shift a little crisper and be a little more out the way but is it essential? Thanks in advance.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I am runnind a 675 slx clutch mech but it's sgs. Now I did a little research and replacement cage parts (gs) are available and can be had through lbs for £15. Question is do I need to run the shorter cage? Or can I use the sgs cage? I realise the gs will shift a little crisper and be a little more out the way but is it essential? Thanks in advance.
    It won't shift any crisper, the upper jockey is in the same place.

    It will look better, be a little less likely to be damaged and give a reduced chain angle on the lower run.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • That's good to know. I think
    I will mod the mech anyway while Inhave the chain off. I still save £30 over replacing the whole thing and, as said it will be neater and out the way a bit more. New dropper installed, lighter saddle on it's way along with new tyres and 1x10 to look forward to.....now just have to wait for it to stop hammering down to try it all! Thanks for the help.
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I really wouldn't bother. Sell the mech and replace if you're that bothered.