Rose Xeon CRS 3000

victorfilipescu

Hey guys,

I got myself a Christmas present that only arrived two days ago. It's a Xeon CRS 3000 from Rose in black and red.
The colour and frame looks a lot better in reality than on their website.
Full Ultegra 6800 groupset, Ksyrium Elite S wheels, Ritchey carbon bars and seatpost, monolink Flite saddle in 59 size... and that's pretty much all there is.
I hope for better weather to take it out for a spin. :roll:

Will probably replace the Yksion tires with Durano Plus as I don't want any surprises with punctures and besides some aero bars when time for triathlon comes, I think those are the only modifications/ upgrades I'll do on it.

Weight is 7,3 kg without pedals, Sigma computer and bottle cage... featherlight compared to my 13 kgs mtb.

I'll take more pics of details on the bike and upload them.

Victor

rickeverett

ooooooo
nice

I'm looking at these at the moment ! - Was wanting it in shiny white but it isnt in ize 57 ! - so its either shiny black, black and red or go for the 4400 SRAM version. :?

Let us know what its like, especially for longer distance / comfort.


Did you change anything on the spec?

victorfilipescu

Glad you like it.

IMO it looks awesome in shiny red and black. A friend of mine has the last year's version in matt black and grey and that looks very good. I wanted to get the same but this year's colours don't include that one.

Btw, on their website it looks like the white in 57 is available...

rickeverett

victorfilipescu wrote:

Glad you like it.

IMO it looks awesome in shiny red and black. A friend of mine has the last year's version in matt black and grey and that looks very good. I wanted to get the same but this year's colours don't include that one.

Btw, on their website it looks like the white in 57 is available...

Just checked - it says White CRS3000 is in 49, 53, 55, 63

The CRS4400 is in White 57cm but its a tad more expensive and over budget (want to factor in some ROSE kit)
I have no Idea how SRAM Force performs. Ultegra 6800 gets lots of praise.

Perhaps the 3000 in Black !

victorfilipescu

Force is a really good group. It's at the same level with Ultegra. Some people say it's even better. It's lighter for sure. One noticeable difference when using it is the double tap levers, but I never had a road bike before so for me it doesn't make any difference asa I'm not used to any of the systems.

Sprool

Very, very nice - I'm trying to choose between the crs3000 and the canyon ultimate CF SL at the moment - I do like the rose system where you can alter specs but have been put off by a review saying the rose is more of a stiff racy bike and a bit twitchy, less comfortable for longer rides. However thats only one persons opinion, the spec is great. I'd be more swayed by a bias towards comfort and less aggressive ride position at my age, more of a sportive or GF set up maybe. Guess I can always flip the stem but I don't want something that is too skittish on poor roads.

ai_1

rickeverett wrote:

....I have no Idea how SRAM Force performs. Ultegra 6800 gets lots of praise.....

I'm coming from Shimano Tiagra and was considering a bike with SRAM Force so made sure to get a test ride on a Force equipped bike (2013 model Force). I quite liked the shifting. It's much more positive than Shimano shifting. Shimano is lovely and smooth but sometimes you have to look and see did the chain actually move! SRAM is more "clicky". However I didn't find the hoods a good fit for my hands. I found them too slim and rounded. Maybe I'd get used to them but maybe not.
So, I stuck with Shimano and have just ordered a Canyon CF SL 9.0 with the new Ultegra 6800. SRAM Force is definitely worth a look especially if it's your first road bike and don't have an existing preference. However, Ultegra 6800 is going to be hard to beat if the reviews are to be believed.

victorfilipescu

Thanks mate!
I faced the same 2 choices plus some others. I got the Rose simply because it was cheaper. For the same spec Canyon asked for 120 euros more, plus they dont offer, as you say, the option of customizing the bike. I live in Denmark, but I ordered it in Germany at my gf's parents to get around the transportation costs and VAT. I saved around 180 euros... I picked up the bike myself since we went there this weekend.

It is indeed a more racy bike than others but if you want something more comfortable for more hours in the saddle, Rose also offers the CGF (carbon gran fondo) to suit. Taller head tube, etc...but this is another discussion, I'm sure there are plenty of good bikes out there.
I got this one to use also in triathlons and mountain climbing, so I think it's a good compromise.

ai_1

Yep, I also considered Rose (Xeon CRS3000 and Xeon CW3000) before buying Canyon. The Rose "configurator" is a big bonus but I went with Canyon purely because I wasn't certain about comfort on the Rose. Some of the roads I ride in Ireland don't have great surfaces and I think UK is similar in places. I suspect they're better in Denmark!
Having said that, I'm a bit sceptical about claims that the frame is a major contributor to comfort anyway - the majority of the comfort is dictated by tyre choice and pressure.

Either Rose would probably have been great, I just couldn't find enough information to be confident so I played it safe. I think the Xeon CW3000 could be a great road/triathlon/TT combination bike which was what I originally had in mind but decided to go for more of a climbing bike in the end. I do mostly sportives and duathlons myself and plan to do some triathlon this year with a half ironman in autumn if everything goes well.

victorfilipescu

Good luck with the training for the half Ironman. It requires hard work for a few months but don't forget to have fun while in the race. You're supposed to enjoy it!
Totally agree about the Xeon CW but as you say the non aero bikes are nicer on the climbs. The Canyon won't dissapoint.
I'm sure the Canyon is an excelent bike, I would put it on the same level as the CRS. My choice between the two was 90% based on price.

danwallace

Nice , really like the colour.

RideOnTime

nice one...

gethinceri

I'm very jealous. Considering a CSL 3500 and having a test ride in a couple of weeks with the UK Rose guy, really looking forward to it.

chadders81

Lovely bike - I have the same bike with Di2 and the frame is great. I'm a powerful (read a bit fat) rider and it is super stiff and climbs and descends beautifully.

Coming from a MTB, you'll be amazed how light and responsive the wheels feel. It deserves better tyres though. Mine didn't last long.

I think I'm going to get the alu version as my new commuter.

victorfilipescu

Glad to hear you have good experiences with it. And plus the Di2 system...makes it a dream to ride.
No doubt it's a lot sharper than my MTB, hope I have good enough legs to match the potential of the frame.
About the tires, I'm thinking of getting Duranos not to have problems with punctures, but I know they're not the fastest ones around. Ultremos would be nice, but then again it doesn't really help if I go faster but during a half iron man I get one or two flats... Dunno, which tires do you have?

chadders81

I run Conti Four Seasons on mine at the moment. They seem tough enough and I don't see the point of riding a light bike and wheels with heavy tyres.

No punctures so far but I do run mine really hard (120psi) which seems to cut don't the risk. Doesn't do much for the ride comfort but neither does standing at the side of the road trying to get a tyre on a rim.

ai_1

Chadders81 wrote:

I run Conti Four Seasons on mine at the moment. They seem tough enough and I don't see the point of riding a light bike and wheels with heavy tyres.

No punctures so far but I do run mine really hard (120psi) which seems to cut don't the risk. Doesn't do much for the ride comfort but neither does standing at the side of the road trying to get a tyre on a rim.

I use 4 seasons too and had 1 puncture all last year. I run my front wheel around 85-95psi and back wheel about 105-115psi depending on conditions. I don't think very high pressure is essential.

I agree with you on light bike and wheels with heavy tyre - it wastes the potential of your bike.
Punctures will happen occasionally but it's sufficiently rare that I wouldn't cripple my bike just to reduce the risk. Even if you do puncture in Ironman it's not going to cost you a huge amount of time. You might be stopped for 5-10 minutes. Maybe under 5 mins if you practice and use CO2 cartridges. That's not a lot in the context of Ironman where the winner will be around 8hrs and most of us will be somewhere between 11 and 15hrs. Heavy tyres may even cost as much time as a puncture on a 180km cycle. If you do puncture it's at least an excuse for a breather!

rickeverett

Ai_1 wrote:

Chadders81 wrote:

I run Conti Four Seasons on mine at the moment. They seem tough enough and I don't see the point of riding a light bike and wheels with heavy tyres.

No punctures so far but I do run mine really hard (120psi) which seems to cut don't the risk. Doesn't do much for the ride comfort but neither does standing at the side of the road trying to get a tyre on a rim.

I use 4 seasons too and had 1 puncture all last year. I run my front wheel around 85-95psi and back wheel about 105-115psi depending on conditions. I don't think very high pressure is essential.

I agree with you on light bike and wheels with heavy tyre - it wastes the potential of your bike.
Punctures will happen occasionally but it's sufficiently rare that I wouldn't cripple my bike just to reduce the risk. Even if you do puncture in Ironman it's not going to cost you a huge amount of time. You might be stopped for 5-10 minutes. Maybe under 5 mins if you practice and use CO2 cartridges. That's not a lot in the context of Ironman where the winner will be around 8hrs and most of us will be somewhere between 11 and 15hrs. Heavy tyres may even cost as much time as a puncture on a 180km cycle. If you do puncture it's at least an excuse for a breather!

Ironic as the CO2 cartridges along with repair kit or new tube will weigh the same as the difference between a light sport puncture prone tyre and a slightly heavier puncture resistant sport tyre like a GP4000.

chadders81

That's rotational weight though and rubbish tyres don't roll as well. Totally different.

ai_1

rickeverett wrote:

Ai_1 wrote:

Chadders81 wrote:

I run Conti Four Seasons on mine at the moment. They seem tough enough and I don't see the point of riding a light bike and wheels with heavy tyres.

No punctures so far but I do run mine really hard (120psi) which seems to cut don't the risk. Doesn't do much for the ride comfort but neither does standing at the side of the road trying to get a tyre on a rim.

I use 4 seasons too and had 1 puncture all last year. I run my front wheel around 85-95psi and back wheel about 105-115psi depending on conditions. I don't think very high pressure is essential.

I agree with you on light bike and wheels with heavy tyre - it wastes the potential of your bike.
Punctures will happen occasionally but it's sufficiently rare that I wouldn't cripple my bike just to reduce the risk. Even if you do puncture in Ironman it's not going to cost you a huge amount of time. You might be stopped for 5-10 minutes. Maybe under 5 mins if you practice and use CO2 cartridges. That's not a lot in the context of Ironman where the winner will be around 8hrs and most of us will be somewhere between 11 and 15hrs. Heavy tyres may even cost as much time as a puncture on a 180km cycle. If you do puncture it's at least an excuse for a breather!

Ironic as the CO2 cartridges along with repair kit or new tube will weigh the same as the difference between a light sport puncture prone tyre and a slightly heavier puncture resistant sport tyre like a GP4000.

There's no irony here at all.
I would be carrying the same repair kit regardless. Wouldn't you? Heavier tyres may reduce the chance of puncture but they don't eliminate it.

Furthermore, the main reason I suggest avoiding heavy/tough tyres is because of the ride quality and rolling resistance. The reduced weight is nice too but not the main issue. And as Chadders said there's a difference between weight on the wheel rim/tyre versus other parts of the bike, specifically when accelerating from bends or, more importantly for Ironman, when climbing.

So, I disagree with you entirely....

victorfilipescu

Thanks for all the comments guys. So you would suggest not to get the Duranos because they're too heavy and too hard ridig...?
What other tyres are out there that offer good punture protection and will not transform my racer into a mtb?
rickeverett suggested the GP4000

ai_1

victorfilipescu wrote:

Thanks for all the comments guys. So you would suggest not to get the Duranos because they're too heavy and too hard ridig...?
What other tyres are out there that offer good punture protection and will not transform my racer into a mtb?
rickeverett suggested the GP4000

Is it Duranos or Durano Plus that you had in mind? I had it in my head that Duranos were very beefy tyres with a thick breaker belt but having just looked them up the Durano Performance folding tyre weighs 235g which isn't bad at all. I thought it was a lot heavier. I must have been thinking of the Durano plus which does have a thick belt and is listed as 340g. I use Continental 4 seasons which have a similar weight spec to the Durano Performance (230g) although the TPI figure is much higher which probably means it's more supple. Apologies if I've confused matters, I thought we were discussing heavily protected clunky tyres versus racing or lightly protected tyres!
I've done about 6000km on my 25mm 4 Seasons and I've had 1 puncture in that time. I haven't tried Duranos so can't comment on their performance.

victorfilipescu

Sorry, my bad, I was talking about Durano Plus, the 380 grams for a 25c tire...
My gf has the same only in 23c and she never had a puncture in 2 years. They are heavier and harder to bring up to speed, but they're pretty much indestructible and they seem to last quite long also.
Conti's sound also good and I guess they are a bit lighter.
No worries mate, that was exactly the discussion...I just want to get a good compromise between the two types of tires. Ideally, one that would spin fast and won't puncture.
Thanks for your answer

bendertherobot

Ai_1 wrote:

I agree with you on light bike and wheels with heavy tyre - it wastes the potential of your bike.

Well, that really does depend.

If you compare something like the Ultremo ZLX with the DD the difference is marginal. In fact if you select the 25c DD you may well even gain on average speed. The difference is a maximum of 70g per wheel. You really won't feel that. And you can be sure that you stand a much greater chance of avoiding the fairy.

Granted as you progress through the 300g barrier you may feel a difference.

I was rocking 450g tyres in today's flood and was absolutely banging along.