Can't fit bleed block
Cqc
Posts: 951
Hi all, I have an avid elixir 5 rsl which desperately needs a rear bleed, but I have been stuck on the first obstacle: I can't fit the bleed block in. It's definitely the right kind, but I can't fit it so that the fat bit is inline with the pistons, and in most guides the two prongs stick out the other side, but with mine, the fat bit doesn't fit into the calliper so it is the prongs that are inline with the pistons, is the bleed block in enough, and if not, how do I get it further in?
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Sounds to ne asif your pistons aren't fully back in.. lut and old set of pads in and push them back with possibly a flat screw driver to make sure the pistons are all the way back.0
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They don't seem to be jutting out much, but I'll try...0
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No, thing is, the bleed block isn't being blocked by the pistons being too narrow, it's being blocked by the callipers being too narrow. Arent the two halves of a calliper connected simply by the two screws that hold them together, to could I take the two halves apart, fit the bleed block, and then screw them back together? Or is that not a good idea as they have oil between them or something?0
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Terrible idea. Don't - all the fluid will pour out everwhere (plus all the bits) to be replaced with lots of air.
Leave the pads in (preferably an old set), stick a big screwdriver in, and turn it like a key.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
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Parktools0 -
It's not the piston, it's actually the width of the calliper that's the problem- the pistons are properly pushed back in...0
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Not possible if you have the right bit.I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Sounds like you dont have the right bleed block if thats the case0
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It says it's the right one, does the rsl bit in the name make it different?0
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You dont need the bleed block just shove a bit of wood or anything hard (but not metal) in to stop the pistons moving. I have used folded up cereal packet in an emergencyFig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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Oh ok, have done that, but bleed hasn't been that effective, lever still pulls right to the bar. However, I've noticed that the pads are completely worn out, so I will order some new ones and then if they don't improve things I'll try another bleed.0
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Try loosening the caliper on the adapter - I've had the same problem, it just depends on the alignment, and the adapter can either get in way or at least stop you getting the block at the right angle to slip in.0
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That doesn't necessarily mean a bleed issue, if the pads are not advancing properly you get the same symptom but all the bleading in the world won't fix it.Cqc wrote:Oh ok, have done that, but bleed hasn't been that effective, lever still pulls right to the bar. However, I've noticed that the pads are completely worn out, so I will order some new ones and then if they don't improve things I'll try another bleed.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
What alaric said above.
The bleed block is being interfered with.
Loosen the caliper, or better still, just take the whole lever and caliper and hose off the bike, mount the lever to a piece of tube in a vice and bleed the brakes off the bike.
It's much easier as you can position the lever at any angle you want and the line has a dead straight vertical run from the hanging caliper to the lever making the bleed so much faster.0 -
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Top, but don't worry, bleed+ new pads= happy brakesride_whenever wrote:do the pads come in from the top or the bottom?0
