Removing bike pedals - bigger wrench or mtfu?

notnot
notnot Posts: 284
edited March 2014 in The workshop
I'm trying to get the pedals off my old giant MTB to use on its replacement. I've got a thin metal spanner (one of these ones cut out of a sheet of metal) and can't get them to loosen at all :( Do I need a decent-sized wrench, or should this be doable with more brute force?

Comments

  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    Have you tried using the hex bolt from the back?
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  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    notnot wrote:
    I'm trying to get the pedals off my old giant MTB to use on its replacement. I've got a thin metal spanner (one of these ones cut out of a sheet of metal) and can't get them to loosen at all :( Do I need a decent-sized wrench, or should this be doable with more brute force?
    Get the correct tool for the job.

    Ever wondered why there are pedal span nerves made? As normal spanners are often lot long enough.

    What you are trying to use, if it is what I am thinking it is, is as much use as a chocolate tea pot.

    And not all pedals take a hex key in the back.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • notnot
    notnot Posts: 284
    nicklouse wrote:
    notnot wrote:
    I'm trying to get the pedals off my old giant MTB to use on its replacement. I've got a thin metal spanner (one of these ones cut out of a sheet of metal) and can't get them to loosen at all :( Do I need a decent-sized wrench, or should this be doable with more brute force?
    Get the correct tool for the job.

    Ever wondered why there are pedal span nerves made? As normal spanners are often lot long enough.

    What you are trying to use, if it is what I am thinking it is, is as much use as a chocolate tea pot.

    And not all pedals take a hex key in the back.

    Like this? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/15mm-Pedal-Sp ... 54017547fe Good to know it's not just me being a wimp, anyway :)
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    That one looks like it's going to be stamped out of cheap steel. I'd have thought it'll do the job once or twice, but (after having bent an average quality chain whip) I really do recommend going for the best quality tools you can't quite afford. If you buy cheap tools you'll just go back a month later and buy the proper one anyway - buy cheap, buy twice.

    Something like this is great (I've got the one with the aluminium handle and you could hack your way into a tank with one).

    Having said that, I have made do with a Halfords Advanced 15mm spanner with an extension pole on it. Their Advanced range is actually very good quality.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • DrLex
    DrLex Posts: 2,142
    davis wrote:
    [...]

    Something like this is great (I've got the one with the aluminium handle and you could hack your way into a tank with one).
    [...]

    I treated myself to that one (the bottle opener swayed it) after almost detaching a digit when trying to use a short, thin (& cheap) spanner - recommended!
    Location: ciderspace
  • Also, try and set the wrench at an angle that allows you to catch the crank, working the wrench and crank together like shears. That'll help a lot.
  • Also, try and set the wrench at an angle that allows you to catch the crank, working the wrench and crank together like shears. That'll help a lot.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    Try soaking it in WD40 or GT85 overnight to loosen it up. When you fit your next set of pedals (or refit these be sure to grease them so you don't end up stuck again. Also one pedal turns the wrong way, that can be confusing as I never remember which side!
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Try soaking it in WD40 or GT85 overnight to loosen it up. When you fit your next set of pedals (or refit these be sure to grease them so you don't end up stuck again. Also one pedal turns the wrong way, that can be confusing as I never remember which side!

    The left pedal is left-hand thread. Simple.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    the pedals tighten when rotated in the normal pedaling direction - that's why one is reversed.

    to undo, just undo in the opposite direction to this
  • awavey
    awavey Posts: 2,368
    not sure how safe this is, and he was clearly a trained professional in a closed environment and accepts no liability for trying this technique :lol:

    but I have seen one youtube bike maintenance demo video, where the guy moves the pedal to the bottom of the stroke, hooks the spanner up to the pedal bolt, making sure its going to go the correct way he wants to unbolt it, holds the front brake, puts one foot on the pedal, and then stands on the spanner. so basically putting his whole body weight through the spanner, and voila the bolt is no longer stuck and he can then slowly unbolt it the rest of the way.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    awavey wrote:
    not sure how safe this is, and he was clearly a trained professional in a closed environment and accepts no liability for trying this technique :lol:

    but I have seen one youtube bike maintenance demo video, where the guy moves the pedal to the bottom of the stroke, hooks the spanner up to the pedal bolt, making sure its going to go the correct way he wants to unbolt it*, holds the front brake, puts one foot on the pedal, and then stands on the spanner. so basically putting his whole body weight through the spanner, and voila the bolt is no longer stuck and he can then slowly unbolt it the rest of the way.

    * for both pedals this is so the handle of the pedal spanner is pointing to the back of the bike.