Resin or Metal pads of XC in UK weather?
John_Carter
Posts: 87
Hello,
Just got new Shimano SLX M675 brakes - they come with metal pads but I'm thinking of installing resin pads as they allegedly provide more 'feel'. I know resin isn't as good in the wet which is quite frequent in the UK.. ;-)
On the other hand I'm not doing DH and wonder if the SLX brakes (with 180mm rotor on the front) and metal pads would prove too powerful and provide less feel...
What do you think?
Thanks!
Just got new Shimano SLX M675 brakes - they come with metal pads but I'm thinking of installing resin pads as they allegedly provide more 'feel'. I know resin isn't as good in the wet which is quite frequent in the UK.. ;-)
On the other hand I'm not doing DH and wonder if the SLX brakes (with 180mm rotor on the front) and metal pads would prove too powerful and provide less feel...
What do you think?
Thanks!
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Comments
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sintered for wet and muddy conditions and resin for dry."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:sintered for wet and muddy conditions and resin for dry.
in other words sintered for UK as we never get a dry day :P0 -
What would happen to resin pads in wet water? they's wear quicker but they will brake if you pull the lever hard enough, no?0
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just wear out fast. seen some people get through a set in an hour.John_Carter wrote:What would happen to resin pads in wet water? they's wear quicker but they will brake if you pull the lever hard enough, no?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
And how would they compare for 'feel' metal and resin?
Thanks,0 -
what do you mean by feel.
if you mean lever feel the same."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
I'm currently on SuperStar Kevlar (Red!) and think they are great. Grippy, not at all noisey and seem to hold up very well (although I don't do much sandy riding). Cheap too at about £6 a set.0
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nicklouse wrote:what do you mean by feel.
if you mean lever feel the same.
Sorry,
I mean modulation sensitivity, the opposite of the 'on/off' feeling - I understand Resin is more sensitive?0 -
Kevlar are a good compramise, but I can still get through a set within a few rides.0
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I found kevlar pads a little prone to glazing, the power would drop off while they still had plenty of material. Switched to resin for my last batch of Superstar and they are more powerful, with acceptable wear. I don't tend to ride as much in really crap conditions though!0
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Modulation will not change as that is part of the brake design. sensitivity same it is part of the brake design.John_Carter wrote:nicklouse wrote:what do you mean by feel.
if you mean lever feel the same.
Sorry,
I mean modulation sensitivity, the opposite of the 'on/off' feeling - I understand Resin is more sensitive?
what i think you are asking is asking the same as what will the difference be when changing pad supplier. will there be a difference? and the answer is yes, no, maybe. just the same as you can get differences in the "same" pads from one supplier.
your brakes will feel the same. the rate of retardation for a given force on the lever may be different. But as the human brain is a wonderful thing you will change the force you are applying without even noticing."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
nicklouse wrote:
Modulation will not change as that is part of the brake design. sensitivity same it is part of the brake design.John_Carter wrote:nicklouse wrote:what do you mean by feel.
if you mean lever feel the same.
Sorry,
I mean modulation sensitivity, the opposite of the 'on/off' feeling - I understand Resin is more sensitive?
what i think you are asking is asking the same as what will the difference be when changing pad supplier. will there be a difference? and the answer is yes, no, maybe. just the same as you can get differences in the "same" pads from one supplier.
your brakes will feel the same. the rate of retardation for a given force on the lever may be different. But as the human brain is a wonderful thing you will change the force you are applying without even noticing.
Thanks Mate,
That's a great explenation!
I'll stick with the metal pads that came with the brakes.
Thanks!0 -
John_Carter wrote:nicklouse wrote:what do you mean by feel.
if you mean lever feel the same.
Sorry,
I mean modulation sensitivity, the opposite of the 'on/off' feeling - I understand Resin is more sensitive?
resin will have more initial bite than sintered0 -
If you live in the Atacama Desert where it hasnt rained for 400 years use resin. Anywhere else use Sintered.
People talk about differences in bite and fade and a lot of other balls. Your not riding a Honda superbike at the TT so dont worry about it because no one in a blind test apart from maybe pro downhillers can tell the difference.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
stubs wrote:If you live in the Atacama Desert where it hasnt rained for 400 years use resin. Anywhere else use Sintered.
People talk about differences in bite and fade and a lot of other balls. Your not riding a Honda superbike at the TT so dont worry about it because no one in a blind test apart from maybe pro downhillers can tell the difference.
Word0 -
Somewhat over simplified!
If I were in the Alps I'd use organic as they have better progression into fade (due to temperature) than sintered, giving you more warning and opportunity, sintered have a very steep fall off in friction as they get too hot which can result in some scary moments.
Personally I just stick with Kevlar year round from superstar.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
You'll notice brake fade in the alps, trust me!stubs wrote:If you live in the Atacama Desert where it hasnt rained for 400 years use resin. Anywhere else use Sintered.
People talk about differences in bite and fade and a lot of other balls. Your not riding a Honda superbike at the TT so dont worry about it because no one in a blind test apart from maybe pro downhillers can tell the difference.0 -
ilovedirt wrote:
You'll notice brake fade in the alps, trust me!stubs wrote:If you live in the Atacama Desert where it hasnt rained for 400 years use resin. Anywhere else use Sintered.
People talk about differences in bite and fade and a lot of other balls. Your not riding a Honda superbike at the TT so dont worry about it because no one in a blind test apart from maybe pro downhillers can tell the difference.
Never ridden in the Alps so I couldnt comment. However I have ridden uplifts in the Sierra Nevada and the Pyrenees in Spain, the Cairngorm, Fort Bill red and Snowdon (not a cable car a little steam engine
) and I never noticed any particular pad material was any different to another. Mind I did have some terrible squeaky bum moments at Fort Bill on a borrowed bike when the lever kept coming back to the bars and the pads were so hot I thought they were about to catch fire. Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0 -
I used to really rate the SS kevlar pads, but got through my last set in 100 miles or so and wasn't too impressed! Got Superstar sintered pads now and no issues with squealing etc so far. Have to agree with njee, the kevlar ones had a habit of glazing over and fading, and I had to sand them a few times. You can't really complain though, as non-superstar pads would be £40+ for 4 sets, rather than £25!0
