Help! Need a rear wheel that can take 130kg

BlackThunder
BlackThunder Posts: 2
edited February 2014 in Road buying advice
I started commuting three months ago in order to lose weight. So far I've come down from about 145kg to 127kg, but not without several problems with my rear wheel. My height is 5ft 7in.

I ride just over 10 miles a day, 5 days a week, on average quality roads in the UK. I have a Giant City Escape 3 - https://www.juliescycles.co.uk/productdetails.asp?productid=81765 (from that shop). The shop told me that it should be adequate for my needs. Since I bought the bike I have had broken 2 axles, so the shop advised me that a cassette-type hub would be stronger and help to prevent the problem. After replacing the hub in December I have not had a broken axle (yet!), but I have noticed that the wheel was not running true, so I they replaced the wheel free of charge today. On my way home tonight I noticed that the wheel has started to wobble again, possibly even worse than it was before. I am a careful rider (since the axle breakages, I've been extremely vigilant for potholes and bumps, and I have never jumped any kerbs), but obviously one or more of the components is not suitable for my weight. The other option is that the workmanship was poor, but I don't believe that as I know three other people who haven't had any problems with repairs at this shop.

Could anyone advise me about the type of wheel/hub (or other components) that I should be investing in to support my weight? I really need to buy something that is going to last me until I get down to a 'normal' weight, because I really can't afford to keep replacing parts every month. I'd be really grateful for any help because I'm starting to feel like it's not worth the effort!

Thanks,
Adam

Comments

  • I have no idea but just wanted to say well done for trying hard and sticking at it. Keep it up. :)
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  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    edited February 2014
    You need a heavy duty touring rim like the rigida Sputnik. A 36H drilling needed and single butted spokes like Sapim Strong on a Shimano XT hub or similar. That will hold up well. or as well as any wheel can.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Garry H
    Garry H Posts: 6,639
    Something hand built with a high spoke count (they are easier to repair). Maybe a touring rim lkke a rigida chrina. There are others with more knowledge than me that will be along in a minute.

    EDIT: Somebody like cycleclinic 8)
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    See above. The chrina is a narrow rim I think given the bike (hybrid) and the rider weight a wide tyre is far better than narrow so the chrina while good is just not stiff enough for the OP's weight or wide enough to take the kind of tyre he probably uses. So the Rigida Sputnik springs to mind it is built for those that ride around Nepal with 25kg over the rear wheel in panniers. They are not industructable though one chap I was speaking in the shop said he was touring in Nepal and a huge chunk of ice hit his bike and took out his rim. It takes alot is the point.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • You need a heavy duty touring rim like the rigida Sputnik. A 36H drilling needed and single butted spokes like Sapim Strong on a Shimano XT hub or similar. That will hold up well. or as well as any wheel can.

    I would think his bike is already fitted with a pretty solid rim and 36 spokes... could be badly built though, with low tension and maybe cheap spokes
    left the forum March 2023
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    also he has a hubs already so a rebuild is possible. Still for the OP weight a spoke with a 2.3mm diamter at the elbow is wise and the OP's wheels will mostly likey use plain gauge.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • I was a similar weight to you when I started and had no end of rear wheel woes till I got a 36 hole mavic Open Pro Shimano 105 hub set of handbuilts from Harry Rowland. Near 6k miles later problem free.
  • parryman
    parryman Posts: 155
    Silly question: is it that the cones need tightening (if it's a Cup/cone bearing assembly)
    That can be a cause of wobbly wheel syndrome
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    (¸.•´ (¸.•` * ¸.•´¸.•*´¨The Amazing Parryman
  • Parryman wrote:
    Silly question: is it that the cones need tightening (if it's a Cup/cone bearing assembly)
    That can be a cause of wobbly wheel syndrome

    It's not silly at all...
    left the forum March 2023
  • 40 hole tandem tourer rear 3 cross tied and soldered for piece of mind? One of the traditional touring shops like spa cycles could probably help with this.
    Keep it up!
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Theese maybe:

    $_57.JPG

    There called Rhyno & 40h so should take a big load I think

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sun-Rhyno-Lit ... 4d16ad05df
  • marcusjb
    marcusjb Posts: 2,412
    brownbosh wrote:
    40 hole tandem tourer rear 3 cross tied and soldered for piece of mind? One of the traditional touring shops like spa cycles could probably help with this.
    Keep it up!

    Just to urge caution - check the spacing before buying a tandem wheel. Most are 140 or 145mm. Those for Santana tandems are 160mm.

    But a good concept and talking with a builder like Spa would be very good anyway (they build good wheels - I have one of their Wheels with a dynohub and it's not dropped a beat in 20000+ km).
  • Take care choosing a wheel based only on number of spokes and rim - IME how (i.e.by whom) the wheel is built is the most crucial thing. Speak to a good wheel builder about your needs and follow their recommendations.