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Speedplay's not holding grease?

wishitwasallflatwishitwasallflat Posts: 3,109
edited January 2014 in Workshop
I must have done at least 12-13k miles on my Zero Chromoly Speedplays - I'm very heavy and they've been used in all weathers bar snow and ice. I've always been pretty good at keeping them greased regularly. The last few times I've done it though they have shed a load of grease from the spindle side very quickly afterwards. Grease just oozes out (like it does when you inject the new grease) over the first rides after greasing. The pedals lose that lovely smooth but slightly stiff feel they have when newly greased within 100 miles or so they feel that spinny way they do when they need repacked. They don't grind/feel rough though.

Is this a sign the seals are damaged maybe (inside o-ring?) - do you think it's worth replacing bearings?
What do you reckon is the lifespan of these?

Posts

  • owenlarsowenlars Posts: 719
    I would think it shows the seals are shot. If the bearings are still rolling smoothly then if you can get new seals replace them, if the bearings are graunchy then it is new bearings or new pedals. After 13k miles I would have thought they don't owe you a lot, but if you can buy the right bearings then why not replace them?

    Here is how to do it.

    http://nyvelocity.com/node/5750
  • Great link Owen thanks - I fancy the mechanical challenge and you can get rebuild kits (£15) but I would need to but the kit and a few tools so probably overall cost would be about £25 odds. I could do with new cleats soon which are £32 or so. I'm considering that as you can get new pedals (come with cleats) for about £90 is it worth rebuilding these? Wondering what other Speedplay users reckon is lifespan and if this grease issue is something to be concerned about or just another way overshoes get dirty!
  • pinarellokidpinarellokid Posts: 1,208
    if the grease is leaking out , you need new seals
    if you do buy new pedals id be very interested in buying these to rebuild myself
    Specialized S Works SL2 . Campagnolo Record 11spd. rolling on Campag Zonda wheels

    http://app.strava.com/athletes/881211
  • racingcondorracingcondor Posts: 1,434
    I'd have thought at 12k miles you probably need new bearings, pedal bodies and seals.

    Pedal bodies will be worn by then, the seals are rubber O rings so all season use will kill them fairly quickly (note to self, must check mine) and I wouldn't trust bearings that tiny to last in pedals that poorly sealed...

    In the past I've binned pedals after about 2 years. Looks, the bearings failed and Time the pedal body was worn enough that you didn't get a stable base any more.
  • crankycrankcrankycrank Posts: 1,830
    If your bearings spin smoothly and don't have play then there is no need to replace them. As mentioned your seals are just O-rings that can be purchased at most auto supply shops and I know some people who have just used O-rings sold for faucets at the plumbing supply and seem to last awhile as well. I forget what size they are but just bring in the old rings for comparison. A simple fix. There is no set lifespan for any parts, just replace when worn.
  • Cheers to all - the main thing that puts me off rebuilding is reports that Speedplay put Red Loctite on the Torx spindle screw. It seems you have to heat the Torx screw to 300F+ to loosen the Loctite or you will strip the screw head. I don't have a soldering iron so can't heat it that way but I read something that if you put a T20 Torx bit into the screw head and the heat up the other end of the bit till its glowing red, then leave it for a while so the bit heats up the screw you can then remove it.

    Has anyone stripped a set down and is this true about the screw and heating?

    PS- Owenlars's link is to someone working on an older set which had a 4mm Allan head spindle screw and they didn't use Red Loctite. Apparently the switch to Torx and Loctite is to make it harder to user service. I'm nor sure what set I have!
  • crankycrankcrankycrank Posts: 1,830
    I've done one of the torx screws with the red Loctite and it wasn't an issue unscrewing without heat. Leave the pedal in the crankarm of course to make it easier. If it is stuck you can always drop the pedal in boiling water for a few minutes to help break the Loctite.
  • I've done one of the torx screws with the red Loctite and it wasn't an issue unscrewing without heat. Leave the pedal in the crankarm of course to make it easier. If it is stuck you can always drop the pedal in boiling water for a few minutes to help break the Loctite.

    Brilliant many thanks :D
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