Removing rear wheel
I have recently moved to a new bike which has 11 speed Shimano Ultegra, but i find it difficult to remove and refit the rear wheel is there a knack to this, never had a problem with 9 or 10 speed.
https://www.instagram.com/seanmcgrathphotography/
Trek Domane SL7 GEN4
Planet X RT58
Cannondale CAAD 10 2012.
Pain.. Is weakness leaving the body.
HATING LIFE-CYCLES FROM 2011
Trek Domane SL7 GEN4
Planet X RT58
Cannondale CAAD 10 2012.
Pain.. Is weakness leaving the body.
HATING LIFE-CYCLES FROM 2011
0
Comments
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Not trying to be too obvious, but just in case..some fork and rear ends have a little lip on them, a safety feature to stop your wheel popping off if your q/r opens up. Maybe you just need to unscrew the q/r a little more to get round the lips? My Giant frames both have this feature.
Jam butties, officially endorsed by the Diddymen Olympic Squad0 -
shift down to the smallest cog on the rear wheel before removing itSpecialized S Works SL2 . Campagnolo Record 11spd. rolling on Campag Zonda wheels
http://app.strava.com/athletes/8812110 -
No lips on the frame its a Planet X RT58, i always move to the smallest cog before removing, :? :?https://www.instagram.com/seanmcgrathphotography/
Trek Domane SL7 GEN4
Planet X RT58
Cannondale CAAD 10 2012.
Pain.. Is weakness leaving the body.
HATING LIFE-CYCLES FROM 20110 -
Forward/backward adjustment on the hanger? The hanger on your new frame might have a slightly different 'stop' position on the lip? If so and if the lip on the current hanger is a bit more forward, then your chain might just be wrapping round the sprockets a bit more. If you've got plenty of adjustment play on the screw, you could just touch it back a bit, or just pull the rear mech back a bit more to aid clearance when you drop the wheel?
Maybe the chainstays are simply sitting closer to the sprockets than on your previous frame, so a tighter clearance? It won't take much to make a difference. Different frame, different design/fit.
Jam butties, officially endorsed by the Diddymen Olympic Squad0 -
I will post some photos and you can let me know what you think?https://www.instagram.com/seanmcgrathphotography/
Trek Domane SL7 GEN4
Planet X RT58
Cannondale CAAD 10 2012.
Pain.. Is weakness leaving the body.
HATING LIFE-CYCLES FROM 20110 -
Just move the rear mech body back as well as dropping the wheel.Yellow is the new Black.0
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What smidsy said I think. Some frames are just a little tighter, and/or the drop-out design a little different. If there's enough adjustment play, then as I said earlier, that may help a little.
Some frames just have a tighter geometry and less clearance overall. If you've got less tyre clearance, then your wheel might be bumping up against the little bridge across the chainstays when you're dropping the wheel (I've had this with frames with tight clearances, or large tyres fitted, just needed to let a little air out first, or a firm thump on the top of the wheel sometimes did it); or maybe the drops on the new frame are angled very slightly more forward than on the previous frame; or it could be any combination of things already mentioned.
I don't think pics will really tell us anything, we'd need in-depth pics at all angles of both frames with the wheels in and out! Needing a little more care taking the back wheel out doesn't mean there's necessarily anything wrong, just need a little finessing of position/method when dropping the wheel.
EDIT: I've just had a look at your new frame on Planet X. The rear end is quite beefy and built up a lot round the rear of the bottom bracket area. You've probably just got a little less tyre clearance as I suggested might be the case. As it's carbon, and I'm not really familiar with carbon, but generally they seem to be less tolerant of abuse than steel or cheaper ali frames (read thicker tubes), I'd go with letting air out of the tyre rather than thumping it to get it out :shock:
Jam butties, officially endorsed by the Diddymen Olympic Squad0