Shimano 9 speed HG-93 chain fitting advice

abarth_1200

Hi guys never really used shimano gear sets and chains so look for a bit of advice.

I was expecting some sort of quick release connector like SRAM have but instead there is just a pin left half out on the outer link side, so I'm assuming it's a chain tool I need to join. I've had a google and found out also shimano chains have to be put on with the writing facing out, my hg-93 has writing on both sides.

Any help guys, is there a quick fit link I can use in place of the pin as I regularly take my chain off to clean

BigAl

Yeah, the Shimano chain joining is a pain.

But a 9spd SRAM or KMC Powerlinks should be fine.

As for writing on the outside - I thought it was only 10spd chains that this applied to - though I may well be wrong

Chunkers1980

You need a chain tool too, but links are better.

fizik

You will need a chain tool to shorten the chain to the required length, but buy a powerlink and it makes it much easier to remove the chain for cleaning etc. Sram powerlinks will work just fine with your shimano chain 8)

abarth_1200

If I used a powerlink would that mean the chain would be too long? I can't quite get my head around it. The power links are basically one length of outer chain but as it stands my chain has an inner link at one side and an outer link at the other, either way I do this I think I would need a chain tool to remove the outer link before I could use the power link.

It seems I have answered my own question here so what route should I go down, stick with what shimano designed it to do or start messing with things

abarth_1200

Ah ha was typing that out lol yeah I'll mess with it then thanks guys

supersonic

You need a chain tool to cut down to the required length anyway. A link is 1 inch of chain - the power 'link' is half a link in reality, you need two female ends of the chaos to use one.

I'd just use the pin supplied.

fizik

Have you removed a chain to replace it with the new one? Someone may correct me but take the chain, without putting it through the rear derailleur, put it around the two largest cogs, front and back and pull it tight. Shorten the chain at the point there are 3 links overlapping (1 link = 1 inner and one set of outer plates IIRC). You can just use a chaintool to join the chain up once you have shortened it but make sure you insert the pin the right distance otherwise you will have a stiff link. Try that or use a power link and replace one set of outer plates. Hope that helps.

fizik

It is always handy to have a spare powerlink in your bag though when out riding incase of a breakage, that and a chain tool!

jimothy78

At the moment you can get 2 KMC quick links for £3.68 including postage on ebay, so that gives you one to use to fit the chain in the first place, and a spare to carry in your pack (which you should definitely have - carrying a spare has saved my ride twice in the past year).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-9-Speed-K ... 27dd65ed50

cooldad

Keep the bit of chain you cut off as well. Always handy to carry a bit around as well as a master link.

nicklouse

abarth_1200 wrote:

Hi guys never really used shimano gear sets and chains so look for a bit of advice.

I was expecting some sort of quick release connector like SRAM have but instead there is just a pin left half out on the outer link side, so I'm assuming it's a chain tool I need to join. I've had a google and found out also shimano chains have to be put on with the writing facing out, my hg-93 has writing on both sides.

Any help guys, is there a quick fit link I can use in place of the pin as I regularly take my chain off to clean

Sounds like a OE supplied chain that has the pin pre inserted for machine riveting. It is not for home joining.

Either get a Shimano joining pin or a set of joining plates.

mini_death

Are you replacing your chain because it's worn out? If so, have you replaced the cassette too?

In regards to your pin, get a chain breaker, cut to the correct length.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... leur-bikes

If you have a full sus mountain bike, compress the suspension to get the longest chain distance then measure as above. (Over biggest at the rear, biggest at the front, not through the mech but through any front chain device and then add an inner and outer plate after compressing the suspension.)

If you're going to replace the pin with a quick link then just measure it up but only add an inner plate as the quick link will replace the outer plate.

abarth_1200

Yes it does appear to be an one chain, I got it cheap off eBay from somebody who takes apart new bike with faults.

The bike is only 5 months old second hand and the guy never looked after the chain so before it gets stretched and wears the cassette ill replace it now.

Wouldn't it already be the right length, I'm just going to get a new shimano chain pin the ones that snap off once inserted. I could always double check against the old chain for length.

cooldad

Never chack against an old chain, size a new one properly, and the Shimano pins are rubbish.

mini_death

The old one may have been the wrong length, wouldn't be the first time.

If you're finding your gears are slipping under load then your cassette will also be worn. You can try it with just a new chain but be prepared to change the cassette.

abarth_1200

Even I did size the chain properly I thought a 9 speed chain was a standard size, as in they come with the right number of links already?

What are the chances of the cassette being worn in a couple of months? How long to chain rings last then?

At this point I think I will get a couple power links and do away with the pin.

cooldad

They don't. Normally come with 116 links, but it's very unlikely your bike needs that many.

nicklouse

abarth_1200 wrote:

Even I did size the chain properly I thought a 9 speed chain was a standard size, as in they come with the right number of links already?

How would they do that then?

Not to mention the different cassette big cog and the different big ring on the cranks you then have different chain stay lengths.

mini_death

Someone with a 11:23 cassette on a 36t 26" hardtail set up needs a shorter chain than someone on a 11:36 cassette with a triple 24,32,42 6"travel 650b/29er trail bike.

abarth_1200

I was under the impression the rear durailer accounted for different cog sizes across a standard 9 speed chain link count.

I am now more learned about chains, I also read through that parktools link and about rear durailer adjustment, very good guides there.

I will size the chain using the biggest cog method, cut where they over lap but leave half a link (inner link to inner link) to make up to a full link with a powerlink connector.

Whats the best way to compress the suspension while im trying to size the chain??

cooldad

Let the air out.

abarth_1200

alright that was obvious, I thinking ratchet strap or something like that...

mini_death

As above, or remove the coil if it's a coil unit.

Alternatively you can take the shock out (unbolt it) and compress the wheel to the amount of travel available on the bike, but this can be awkward.

A ratchet strap doesn't inspire me with confidence although it could be done.

r.dunne717RK5N4pa

I have a 3x9 with 11-36t cassette and 22-32-42 3 speed chain ring crank set for a total capacity of 45t which is pretty high and I had to remove 2 full links (2 inner and outer plates) in order to get it sized correctly. It is an FS so I removed the rear shock spring combo entirely and used a bungee cord to hold the rear triangle up to it's max travel and put the chain around both largest rings, front chain ring and cassette only going through the front derailleur cage but NOT through the rear derailleur jockey pulley cage assembly. This is how it's done. Skip and skimp and you will probably have to do it over. I also used A Shimano HG93 chain with the supplied pin because that's how it's designed to work. If you put the pin on properly, there should be no issue. Only half of the pin is used, the half with the rounded end is a guide to get it started and should be snapped off easily with pliers once the rest of the pin is seated correctly. You should be able to feel it when it is driven to it's proper alignment, it has a bit of a relief that you will feel in the handle of the chain tool as you turn it in. That's where you stop, release the tool and check that the link is turning freely. If you did it right, it will move as freely as all the other links and you're good to go. It's really not that difficult.

Mad_Malx

After 9 years the OP has probably figured something out by now

daniel_b

Mad_Malx said:

After 9 years the OP has probably figured something out by now

He's likely on 11spd by now, or maybe 3 or 4 chains past this one at least.