"Stem lengths run in 10 mm increments"

Manc33

"Stem lengths run in 10 mm increments from 70 mm to 140 mm." - Livestrong.com

How come my Rockrider 5.2 stem is 95mm and my Triban 3 stem is 115mm?

Not 10mm increments from 70mm to 140mm!

Plus they go down to 40mm or 50mm not just 70mm.

Did anyone ever take into account the fact that with STi levers you're adding about 6cm to the reach?

Maybe I just got a frame too big for me lol. 5'10" and on a 57. My seatpost only has 1cm sticking out (of the measurement) so I dunno. I think my next frame will be a 54 or 55.

I think to have my saddle in the middle of the rails I probably need about a 50mm stem. Thing is, handling. :x

Before anyone says "Why have you made this thread" lol... because Livestrong is putting out fake info!

On that same page:

"Convert the centimeter measurement to millimeters by adding a zero to the end of the measurement."



How daft do they think we are lol.

cougie

Funds well spent on that website then. Good work Lance.

markhewitt1978

Erm, what?

I get the impression that the Livestrong thing is more like a wiki than proper researched articles, and yeah, your bike is too big.

mfin

Manc33 wrote:

Did anyone ever take into account the fact that with STi levers you're adding about 6cm to the reach?

Crumbs, you better email all the major cycle companies a bit bloody quick in case they have missed this :roll:

mfin

cougie wrote:

Funds well spent on that website then. Good work Lance.

Is Lance still part of Livestrong.com (being the 'commercial' side of it) and only stepped down from Livestrong the 'charity' (.org)? I can't remember reading if this was the case?

bigflangesmallsprocket

Stem length does refer to the length of the STEM rather than total reach (for road-riding, from your post you've already figured that the lever hoods is where you'll spend most of your time on), something you may not have considered with reference to roadbikes if you're used to riding mtbs or flat-barred bikes.

Generally, stems come in 10mm (or that 1cm) increments, ie: 8/9/10 etc, or 8.5/9.5/10.5. This can help you to dial in your reach more easily, and people do tend to change stems on new bikes to alter the fit to individual needs. You can also effectively reduce the length of your stem by 'flipping' it, which will also raise the height. If this then makes the stem too high, you can then remove stackers on the steering column and lower it back down, less aesthetic, but cheaper than buying a new stem.

You can also use the Sti levers to your advantage to change your reach. Take the tape off, then try sliding them up and down on your bar, this will move them nearer or farther away, depending on your needs. Sliding them up will have a similar effect to slightly raising and closing your position; sliding down will lower and stretch you out more. Do a test ride or two before sticking the tape back on.

You can slide the bars up and down slightly as well, which will also have an effect on reach.

Using a combination of the above adjustments can make a big difference in position without you having to make a new purchase. Try these out for a few rides before taping up your bars again. Even if your reach is improved, the change in Sti position might be uncomfortable for your wrists, in which case you would be better off changing your stem, though at least the experiment will have helped you decide what length to get.

Be aware that stem lengths are 'nominal', I have one stem that is actually a bit longer than claimed, so there may be a little variation between brands.

However, before you spend/waste time doing the above:

Your frame size. You say you only have about 1cm of post showing, thats not much at all, especially on a sloping frame! Assuming you've actually got it set up right for the reach of your legs, then it's definitely too big a frame. If it's new and you've just bought it from a bike store and they told you it was a proper fit, then they were trying to get rid of stock rather than giving you the bike you need, and really you should be able to take it back, get your money back or a smaller size. And don't let them try to charge you extra for their mistake. if you've got any experienced road-riding mates, take them with you for back-up (don't get stroppy unless you really need to, you'll just alienate the shop owners) and better advice, and to make sure you don't get fobbed off again.

marshall_a

Where have you measured your stems from? top/bottom/central axis? as most will have a +/- degree angle so measure longer/shorter depending on if you have it flipped, if you measure along the top and not the central axis (which will be stated as the measurement).

Stevie_gee

your frame is enormous...probably. I'm 6'3" and on a 56.5cm. although it depends how you are proportioned.

bear in mind how the stem is measured. I.E. is it centre of headset to centre of bars or not.

EDIT:

Manc33 wrote:

Before anyone says "Why have you made this thread" lol... because Livestrong is putting out fake info!

Shocker- the internet can be wrong?????

slowbike

I'm 5'11 and on a 56 frame that feels absolutely right (to me) ... I have a 56cm CX frame that I had to get a longer stem for because it felt too cramped.

you can't go on reported frame size alone to determine if it's the correct size - you have to look at the length of the top tube and angles of the seat post & headtube.

Which is why the number 1 bit of advice on what to do when buying a new bike is to sit on the thing ...

Manc33

In the shop I fobbed myself off really lol. I felt like it was a bit of a reach but it also looks smaller than an old touring bike I also have. Touring bikes have a more upright geometry than road bikes don't they? If so this could explain a lot about the reach now.

It felt like I had done deadlifting after a ride the other night lol. Reaching works your back.

I can ride with my hands on the corners of the bars (on top) and there seems about where the hood should be. Measuring on a spare Cinelli bar I have to hand, thats about 13cm. Is it possible my reach could be that far out?!

For now I have put the saddle forward 1cm and put a stem on 2cm shorter, it seems like its about 1/3 fixed. :roll:

I had MTB bars on and they bent back at the ends as well, the reach was perfect. So around where the stem/middle of handlebar is then, is probably about where my hoods should be.

This says 55cm
http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/ ... =Calculate

Who knows how right it is. Nothing can beat trying in the shop.

Anonymous

You cannot make your bike fit you by bringing your seat forward and shortening your stem loads.
The seat position should be set re your legs, not trunk/arms so that only leaves your stem and you cannot shorten that by 40mm.

Sell the bike and start again.
Buy a smaller bike and stick a slightly longer stem on if need be (once you have sorted seat) to get a good fit.

kingofthetailwind

I'm 5'10 and just sold a 57cm Triban for the same reason. My new 54 Felt Z95 fits much better. Tribans are very popular, if you have the original red version and it's in good condition you should get £250 for it. Sell it and get something smaller.

B'Twin road stems come in 10mm increments. I think you're measuring it wrong.

Moonbiker

Im 5 10" my best bike frame is 53cm & that bike was a custom build so had a bike fit when I bought it so assume its the right size not much seat post showing unlike tdf riders have.

I do Ride other bigger framed bikes up a 60cm one though, they don't feel wrong, just different. The 60cm is hard to mount easily :shock: , apart from that I like riding it doesn't seem less comfortable.

Anonymous

Don't forget that the amount of seat post showing will vary depending on frame geometry as well as frame size.

Triban 3 must be pretty sloped from head tube down to seat tube though so there should be a fair bit showing on that.

Manc33

Yeah it is what looks like quite a big slope on the top tube and I still only have 1cm showing on the measurement of the seat post.

That old touring bike I have has a totally level top tube, the frame is from the 1950s or 60s. I never remembered the reach being so bad on that, that frame measures 56cm but the brake hoods are old Weinmann cantilever brakes - the hoods are old fashioned and a lot more shallow like half the length of new hoods.

Went out on it tonight after reducing reach by 3cm and it feels like I need to go about another 6cm.

The thing is (and this also influenced me in getting a 57) my dad was only 2" taller than me and he used to ride a 60cm bike.

Its all about that top tube - and the drops. This is why I said earlier (to a few laughs lol) did they ever take the hood length into account, because before the late 80s early 90s all brake hoods were half the length they currently are today! Frame makers surely didn't all change their frame building on the strength of that? Or did they?

KingOfTheTailwind wrote:

I'm 5'10 and just sold a 57cm Triban for the same reason. My new 54 Felt Z95 fits much better. Tribans are very popular, if you have the original red version and it's in good condition you should get £250 for it. Sell it and get something smaller.

B'Twin road stems come in 10mm increments. I think you're measuring it wrong.

If its not a 115mm its a 110mm. Had the 95mm (90mm?) on tonight and its about 1/3-1/2 fixed.

Got one of my all time record average speeds before though on it, the Claris shifters are a blast. Getting used to the downshift on the drops is a bit awkward but I think I can adapt to using it, but the shorter the stem the more awkward that shift will be. Being back on STi levers again I love it. Let's face it, its never going to stop being windy.

I can't sell my Triban 3 now, I only just perfected it! I want to hammer it all this year through summer and then, maybe upgrade the drivetrain to Ultegra 6703. I worked out (if you can be bothered waiting for a good deal on eBay) you can get most of the group used for about £280. Thats for both mechs, cassette, chain, chainrings (can be had for £100, even £70) BB and shifters (£100 - thats only £20 more than I just paid for Claris 2400 and you're getting 10sp and way better quality).

Shimano 105 "5703" new component prices are more than used (not battered) Ultegra 6703.

While these Claris are working fine though I don't care about Ultegra that much. It's funny but because they are brand new they shift as good as the XTR I took off. I estimate that to last about 100 miles. Then its chain skip time.

Its amazing that STi came about in the late 1980s and only now in 2014 they are putting STi on the entry level group, I mean proper STi with a downshift on the brake lever itself. Maybe it was some sort of "25th anniversary" of STi kinda thing.

bigflangesmallsprocket

I WAS going to suggest possibly buying a nice second-hand frame and swapping overl, but that would just bring up a whole new set of problems. Carbonator is right. Don't mess about or change anything, put it all back as it was, clean it up and sell it, in this case I think you'll just have to take the hit, as a learning process, so to speak. I tend to buy online, but it sounds like you'd be better off going to a proper bike shop, where they can assess you and help you to get a bike to fit properly (get them to explain the fitting process to you to aid your understanding of bike-sizing); the slight extra expense will be worth it to give you a good base-line to start with.