Trek Superfly race bike - now under 19lbs, pics page 5
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They've been furiously patenting the narrow/wide design though, I guess they maybe thought that people would be slower to jump on the band wagon.
Which direct mount narrow/wide ring have you got? I wondered about changing.0 -
Should have gone Race Face Next Sl, under 500g with the BB in certain chainring sizes and they look astonishingly nice. Even though I've got XTR cranks lined up for my next build I'm still tempted by them, look so clean and you can't argue with the insane weight!0
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But they are double the cost fella.0
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Thewaylander wrote:But they are double the cost fella.
This, and if I was spending that much I'd sooner have Lightning, not really a fan of the RF stuff, no real reason. Haven't the RFs got some weird BB too? Wouldn't fit the Trek frames.0 -
njee20 wrote:Thewaylander wrote:But they are double the cost fella.
This, and if I was spending that much I'd sooner have Lightning, not really a fan of the RF stuff, no real reason. Haven't the RFs got some weird BB too? Wouldn't fit the Trek frames.
Once you factor in a chainring and BB to XX1 there's only about £100 in it and they're a good 150g lighter. The Raceface cranks have BB's to fit practically any frame out there, even though they use a 30mm Spindle, you can use them in traditional 68/73mm threaded shell or use in any pressfit BB.
Having never used any of the lightning or any german exotic stuff, I'd rather keep with Raceface personally, I have to admit I do love the Next Sl's, LBS had a pair in the other week and they felt like they were made of helium, stupidly light but reviews are saying mega strong for anything short of full blown DH riding. Expensive but possibly worth the extra imo, I've never been a fan of Sram/Truvativ cranks.0 -
The Raceface cranks have BB's to fit practically any frame out there, even though they use a 30mm Spindle, you can use them in traditional 68/73mm threaded shell or use in any pressfit BB.
Nope, Trek frames use their own proprietary BB90 system - not compatible, you have to use RFs slightly odd pressfit BB with the SLs, basically does away with the cups to fit a 30mm ID bearing in. The Trek frames are just two bearings pressed into the frame anyway, so the OD of the bearings is smaller, no room for a larger ID bearing. The XX1 chainset (with 32t ring) was £205, yes it's heavier, but there's more than £100 in it, more like double that, and this wasn't a money no object build, quite the opposite.Having never used any of the lightning or any german exotic stuff, I'd rather keep with Raceface personally,
But you've not used them either, so it's a totally irrelevant statement. A lot of people had pedal inserts fail on the RF cranks, which is partly what puts me off them. Lightning are American, S-Works cranks are just rebadged Lightnings, they're nicely made and on par if not slightly lighter than the RFs, without weird BB requirements. Available with no graphics too, which is nicer IMO. Considering they're specced on S-Works Enduros they're pretty tough...
I'm not a big fan of Truvativ cranks either, was just the obvious thing to go for! May well change down the line, but not to the RFs in this frame.0 -
njee20 wrote:The Raceface cranks have BB's to fit practically any frame out there, even though they use a 30mm Spindle, you can use them in traditional 68/73mm threaded shell or use in any pressfit BB.
Nope, Trek frames use their own proprietary BB90 system - not compatible, you have to use their slightly odd pressfit BB. The XX1 chainset (with 32t ring) was £205, yes it's heavier, but there's more than £100 in it.Having never used any of the lightning or any german exotic stuff, I'd rather keep with Raceface personally,
But you've not used them either, so it's a totally irrelevant statement. A lot of people had pedal inserts fail on the RF cranks, which is partly what puts me off them. Lightning are American, S-Works cranks are just rebadged Lightnings, they're nicely made and on par if not slightly lighter than the RFs, without weird BB requirements. Available with no graphics too, which is nicer IMO.
I'm not a big fan of Truvativ cranks either, was just the obvious thing to go for! May well change down the line, but not to the RFs in this frame.
Ahh I see, didn't realise Trek used another silly BB standard! Why can't everyone just stick with threaded BB's? Pressfit's just shit and it should killed with fire!
Fair enough, I'm not hugely clued up on super light kit, it wouldn't last long with me riding it so don't tend to take much notice
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Yep, to be fair, AFAIK they were about the first off the mark with pressfit that wasn't BB30, and they didn't patent the design, specifically hoping that manufacturers would join them. Trouble was it requires tighter manufacturing tolerances, because it's just bearings pressed straight into the frame, so most brands (Trek included on all their alu bikes) went for a BB92 solution with bearings housed in plastic cups instead.
Generally not an issue, Trek do bearing kits for SRAM and Shimano, but if it needs anything else quirky then it won't work! I was trying to find a way to get it to work as S-Works cranks often go fairly cheaply, but they're all 30mm spindles, and I'm fairly certain it can't be done - IIRC they're 24x37x7mm bearings, so you'd need a 30x37x7, which isn't going to happen!0 -
Good idea dropping the remote lever on the SID's, they are poor in bad weather mine was starting to stick and needed to be cleaned out, good when it works but I wouldn't put any faith in it.0
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Just taking out the entire lockout, never use a crown mounted one either, definitely agree the remotes are a pain, RS ones always have been, Fox are better admittedly.0
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I've got a Wolftooth chainring, lovely bit of kit but was quite pricey once you get stung by customs charges!njee20 wrote:They've been furiously patenting the narrow/wide design though, I guess they maybe thought that people would be slower to jump on the band wagon.
Which direct mount narrow/wide ring have you got? I wondered about changing.YT Wicked 160 ltd
Cotic BFe
DMR Trailstar
Canyon Roadlite0 -
Mmm, yes particularly with Parcel Force's £13 'admin' fee!
I'll be interested to see how the XX1 ring lasts, the XX rings I had a few years ago were dire, lasted no time at all!0 -
Works components make a Narrow/Wide direct mount ring for Sram cranks, think they're £55 or something like that. I've got a 104BCD version and they're awesome plus to my knowledge the cheapest out there (And before anyone says it, yes CRC say the Blackspire N/W ring is £25, actually select a chainring and it shoots up nearly £50).0
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Oh well, when this wears or I decide I bought the wrong ratio I'll change it, couldn't decide between 32 and 34!0
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WindyG wrote:Get one of each :-)
Probably what I'll do with my next build. Plan is get one of the cassette adapters from the likes of OneUP, Absolute Black or Wolftooth and get 34 and 36t rings. My trails back home are pretty flat so a 36t would be nice, but can chuck the 34t on for rides with more climbing. I did 6 miles at Nant Y Arian t'other day and did as much climbing as I would doing 20 miles back home 0 -
I've just ordered a 32t Works Components not a direct mount but I might be in a position to compare it against my Race Face NW0
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Always found 36t fine with 1x10 on the Top Fuel, so 34 would prob be fine on the 29er, gone with 32 though, which should give similar top end to the Fuel, with more spinny gears at the other end.0
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Hey njee
I'm interested in removing the remote lockout too from my Rebas. Not bothered either about having a manual lockout either. Is it easy to do? Have googled it but most of the instructions are for replacing it with manual knob0 -
Yep, very. Undo top cap, take out entire MoCo damper, replace with a top cap of your choice! I've always just used an air top cap to match the LH side. Not got any pics I can find.
On the build... Built the wheels yesterday, spokes are all too short, not sure if the ERD is slightly bigger than they claim or what, hey ho. Should be workable, but they've gone fecking tight before the nipples are fully engaged.
Wanted under 1400g, and they look to be about 1375g from resting them quickly on the scales before they rolled off, so pleased with that.0 -
So removing the damper and remote won't have any effect on how the fork performs? I am very tempted to remove mine, I guess I could easily just refit it later anyway.0
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The rebound damping is separate, so you retain that. You lose the adjustable compression damping, but many of the forks it's just open/closed anyway. Someone told me that even 'open' it's damped and that I'd committed a cardinal sin and every kitten ever would die. Personally I've never noticed a difference, and I've spent several years riding and racing forks with no MoCo in them. Perhaps more noticeable on longer travel forks, I've only ever done it to 100mm ones.
Built the wheels last week and mounted the tyres last night, had to add a second wrap of tape as the tyres were too loose, but then they went straight up with a track pump. Slightly disconcerting is that you can push the tyre bead away from the rim with your thumbs and get a slight 'burp', not really a force you'll encounter while riding, but even so, will take a few rides to have faith in the wheel's ability to hold onto tyres!
Got a bag of green bolts and pedal end caps and what not too, must take some more pics. Only gone for 3 alu rotor bolts per wheels. Did use Ashima alloy rotor bolts on the old bike, but they were marketed as such, these came with a specific warning not to use them exclusively for rotor bolts. Sure they'd be fine, but I've got some ti ones, so can do 3 and 3 in each wheel.0 -
Yeah what you have says backs up exactly what my suspension guy has told me, i'll remove mine as soon as I get a top cap.
Tyres not as tight as Schwalbe's on Crest's then, so got to hope you can still choose the pressure you want rather than one that keeps the tyre on.
So you are using 3 Alu bolts and 3 Ti on each wheel? or did I read that wrong.0 -
Nah, tyres were pretty baggy, way looser than a recent Stan's rim. I think Schwalbe have changed their beads again though, so may be a contributary factor. Not immediately concerned, will probably take the first few corners slowly! Agree that it's not a goer if I have to up the pressures, if I can run 25psi for normal riding and not have them explode I'll be happy.
Yep, 3 alu 3 ti on each wheel.0 -
I demand pics. I want to see how it turns out. :P0
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That's going to be a light build, some serious funds there mate.Yetitribe0
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Not been too bad really - the XT equipped bike was only £500 as a subsidised warranty replacement, plus I had all the bits off the Top Fuel to sell to fund it!
Had hoped to crack on and finish it today, but life got in the way as always! Hopefully get some pics sorted shortly!0 -
Where's the pics njee? Looking forward to seeing them0
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Been away with work and what not, so not really had a chance. I did take a snap the other day, but quite honestly there's so much crap in the garage, with a bike somewhere in the middle, I was rather embarrassed to post it haha!
That and it being quite so horrible outside I'm really not excited about riding it and trashing all the trails even more at the moment, so progress has been slow!
New fork top cap is at the LBS so can sort out the MoCo. Should get there Sunday and finish it up.0 -
I love your old top fuel. How did you find it in comparison to 29er hardtails or 29er FS race bikes?
Very interested in pictures of your Superfly build.Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.0
