How to Ensure Steam is Straight?
PoorInRichfield
Posts: 56
Is there any fast and accurate way to make sure that a bike's stem is straight on the fork?
I've been biking for darn near 25+ years and have always used the "eyeball method" (I.e., just look at the stem and hope it's straight. If not, adjust and try again.) However, I've been playing around with the stem height on my new Domane and the "eyeball method" is getting annoying... I hate doing something over and over until it looks right, I'd rather just do it right the first time!
Seems like someone should've invented a tool by now to ensure the stem is straight so you don't have to waste time making micro adjustments, but I've never seen such a beast. Does it exist? Is there some other genius method that I'm not aware of?
I've been biking for darn near 25+ years and have always used the "eyeball method" (I.e., just look at the stem and hope it's straight. If not, adjust and try again.) However, I've been playing around with the stem height on my new Domane and the "eyeball method" is getting annoying... I hate doing something over and over until it looks right, I'd rather just do it right the first time!
Seems like someone should've invented a tool by now to ensure the stem is straight so you don't have to waste time making micro adjustments, but I've never seen such a beast. Does it exist? Is there some other genius method that I'm not aware of?
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Comments
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I'm sure someone has invented a tool for a problem that doesn't exist.
The problem with having a tool for setting a stem up so that it's perfectly straight is that we are all different and none of us have perfectly symmetrical bodies so the need for a tool that offers a 'one size its all' approach is instantly negated. As soon as you've set up your perfectly straight stem you'll have to adjust it to suit your needs but at least you'll have an expensive tool showing you how not to set up your stem in the future.
As long as it feels right for you is what matters, whether it looks right is pretty irrelevant.0 -
Measure the distance from the wheel hub to the bar ends.0
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I find the easiest way is to not have the wheel in line with the frame. Turn the wheel and handlebars at an angle, then looking above the stem, line it up with the wheel. Being able to see both the front and rear section of the wheel makes it easier.0
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Loosen stem bolts
Turn bike upside down
Remove front wheel
Place a straight bar or threaded rod of suitable diameter and approx 18" long in the dropouts
Turn rod / forks to line up rod with bars or shifters by eye from above
Tighten stem bolts
Refit wheel and turn over.
Job done
Hardest part is finding a nice straight rod and maybe shimming with tape to give a tight fit in dropouts.He is not the messiah, he is a very naughty boy !!0 -
Plumb line?Cannondale Synapse 105, Giant Defy 3, Giant Omnium, Giant Trance X2, EMC R1.0, Ridgeback Platinum, On One Il Pompino...0
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Make sure the wind's behind you when taking a pi$$?0
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Tighten the stem so you need a little bit of force to move it by hand.
Straddle the rear wheel from the back - so you're straight above the bike (one eye closed - can't see the down tube under the top tube). Move your head a little left and right so you're sure you're right in line with the plane of the frame (position of the bottom bracket is good for this).
Position the bars so the rear of the front wheel is hidden behind the top and down tubes.
Duck your head up and down so the tip of the front wheel appears at the head of the stem. Then line it up so the tip of the tyre is slap bang in the middle of the stem's bar cap. make sure you're still dead in line with the frame.
As long as the top tube is right over the down tube, it doesn't matter if the steering is deflected a little - it'll still be accurate. The thing is to make sure your eye is right in the plane of the top and down tubes. You can just see the tip of the tyre in this photo (excuse the state of the bar taping)...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/25eyuleg0p87z ... .44.44.jpg0 -
It's probably easier just to accept that it isn't straight, and spend more of your time deciding whether to go clockwise of anticlockwise around a trail so the corners suit the lopsided nature of your steering...0
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Having got it straight, take the cap off and make a paint-mark or scratch on the top of the steerer and the stem, so you can line them up quickly and easily next time.
I agree with the poster above who says it needn't be straight, just what suits your body - I obviously have one arm longer than the other, or a duff shoulder, bent spine or something, as all my bikes are comfortably set-up with the handlebars a couple of degrees off-straight0
