Any advice welcomed!

Staffswolf
Staffswolf Posts: 41
edited January 2014 in MTB general
Hi all

New to the forum and relatively new to mountain biking.

With Cannock chase on my door step and me being a bit of an adrenaline junkie I decided to buy a new bike.

I have been out a few times now and its safe to say I have the bug.

I am looking for advice on what little tweaks I can make to my bike (spec below) to improve its performance?

Sort of a tip n tricks list.

I have upgraded the pedals as the Welgo standards it came with were pants!

I intend to use the XCM forks for 6 months or so until I'm fully comfortable on the bike and then upgrade them to something with much better performance.

As im not overly clued up on components as yet (reading and learning all the time) I just wondered what you guys think of the spec of my 'entry level' bike and where it can be improved.

I may be doing the Wainwright coast to coast at the end of May so would like to address any poor components before that.

Im not mega rich so would have to be maybe 1 or 2 upgrades a month, thats if any are needed!! :D

Anyways guys thanks in advance and you may get me perstering you more in the future so sorry in advance too! :?

Cheers



Bike Spec:-

Cannondale Trial SL5

Model Year (2013)

Medium 17" - In Stock,

Frame Trail SL, Optimized 6061 alloy, SAVE, 1.5" headtube

Forks SR Suntour XCM-HLO, Coil, 100mm, Lockout, 1-1/8"

Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera, 8-speed

Front Derailleur Shimano Altus, 31.8 clamp

Shifters Shimano Altus 24 Speed w/gear display

Chainset Shimano, FC-M311 22/32/42T

Bottom Bracket Tange Seiki LN-3912

Chain Shimano HG-40

Freewheel Shimano HG31-8, 11-32, 8-speed

Headset Tange Reducer 1.5 - 1-1/8"

Stem Cannondale C4, 1-1/8", 31.8, 7 degree

Handlebars Cannondale C3, 680x20, 6061 double-butted alloy

Front Brake Cannondale Helix 6 Hydraulic Disc, 160mm

Rear Brake Cannondale Helix 6 Hydraulic Disc, 160mm

Brake Levers Cannondale Helix 6

Rims Maddux DC3.0 Double Wall w/eyelet 26"

Front Hub Cannondale C4 QR

Rear Hub Cannondale C4 QR

Spokes Stainless Steel, 15g Black

Tyres Schwalbe Rapid Rob, 26x2.1

Saddle Cannondale Stage 3

Seatpost Cannondale C3, 27.2

Pedals Shimano Saint MX80

Grips Cannondale Dual Density
Rules the bends, Bends the rules

Comments

  • The best thing to upgrade is always your cockpit (basically the points of contact you have with the bike) you've started with pedals, so the next best thing is probably to ensure your bars, stem, saddle etc are all right for you. If the tyres are the ones that came with the bike they are probably OEM and a bit naff so could be changed as well. If you change these things the bike will 'fit' you better, which will improve your riding far more, than spending a fortune on say suspension or a wheelset. There's a good article on it here http://www.moredirt.com/features/Mounta ... ades/5325/
  • Thanks Fyldesmurf.

    That was my thinking if Im honest, not to costly but I would feel a difference.

    I quite like the bars on the bike at the moment but could always try a few others.

    I have been looking at maybe upgraded grips, tyres and saddle next.

    Any recommendations?

    Great link by the way, very helpful for someone of little knowledge like myself.

    Cheers Bud
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Saddle, Charge Spoon Cro-mo! fits 99% of rider well! fairly light and fairly cheap.

    Grips, I like the KCNC foam, light, cheap and durable, and comfy for me.

    Tyres, depends on where you ride and usage, for Cannock Schwalbe Nobby Nics, folding and not pacestar are good.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • whitey161
    whitey161 Posts: 110
    I've got the Nobby Nics in Pacestar and they are the best all round tyre i've had. And thats compared to a High Roller/ Minion combo on my last bike.

    Anyway back on point. Its sound advice, get the bike to fit you well to start with i.e. saddle, stem and bars so that its comfortable for long rides. I swear by WTB saddles now, i've got the basic Rocket V and its great. I like a shorter stem, say 50-70mm.

    After that you can really upgrade anything you want. Give it a few months and you'll notice things you want to improve. Everything on your bike can be improved upon. a 1x10 drivetrain is nice and could be done for a couple hundred quid. You will need to decide if its worth upgrading or getting a new better bike.

    I started off with a £150 hardtail then bought a new £1200 full sus 6 months later. Once it bites you it bites deep!!!
    Gravity-Fed Media - A page to showcase my MTB and Snowboard Edits

    http://www.facebook.com/GFM2005
  • brucie45
    brucie45 Posts: 279
    Don't forget, spare a bit of cash towards backpack/hydration pack, decent multitool, spare tubes etc. These will be more important for now. Maybe invest in some clothing, decent footwear, gloves, base layers, helmet and glasses. All of this will money well spent over upgrades.

    With regards to bike upgrades, is there anything your not happy with? Do you feel comfortable on the bike? Do you feel you have enough grip? Do you feel like there is enough brake power? etc etc. Try to think about where the bike holds you back and upgrade where nessasary.
    Commencal Ramones Cromo 13 - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12926938
  • Thanks for all the helpful info guys.

    I'm definitely comfortable on the bike and from my Strava readings Im getting quicker and quicker each run.
    Im going to give the saddle a little longer before upgrading as it seems to be getting more comfortable, that or my arse is toughening up!

    With regards to the stem, I haven't physically measured it but from its description (Cannondale C4, 1-1/8", 31.8, 7 degree) I cant work out the length, you would assume its 31.8mm but that seems very short.

    I think the advice given is great, I will be upgrading all points of contact firstly I think. I am awaiting delivery of my Shimano Saint DX80 pedals, which will hopefully be here before this weekends ride, I think these will make me even more comfortable on the bike as with the standard Welgo pedals that came with the bike I was constantly having to re-adjust my feet on the pedals.

    I will then probably just look at bars, stem, saddle, tyres and maybe grips.

    Any advice you can give me on the stem and my current setup would be appreciated. Im going to ride a few of my mates bikes with different set ups at the weekend and see what I like and what I dislike. It maybe that my current setup suits me just fine, as I say I feel very comfortable on the bike.

    With regards to clothing, hydration packs etc I have all that gear from other sports I participate in. I also received a new helmet toolkit etc for crimbo, so that was a bonus. Nonetheless great advice to take on board for anyone else in my position reading this.

    Anyways I'm up at cannock most weekends with it being so close, so if any of you get up there give me a shout and by all means join our group.

    Staffswolf
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    31.8 is the bar clamp size, that spec gives no length.

    Don't change it unless you feel it is the wrong length, I had a 100 on mine and it felt fine riding it, but steep descents and manually never felt quite as comfy as I wanted, a switch to 80mm made a huge difference.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Also Whitey161 can you give me a bit more info on the 1 x 10 drivetrain set up, at current I only ever use the middle front cog when riding trials and tend to use all the rear.

    I think for the way I ride this may be a great upgrade.

    Cheers
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • The Rookie wrote:
    31.8 is the bar clamp size, that spec gives no length.

    Don't change it unless you feel it is the wrong length, I had a 100 on mine and it felt fine riding it, but steep descents and manually never felt quite as comfy as I wanted, a switch to 80mm made a huge difference.

    Thanks Mate

    Saying that on steep descents I do feel like I'm sometimes to far over the bars, do you think reducing the stem may help this slightly?
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Technique, stem, fork settings (well sag only for an XCM) or a combination of them, a shorter stem will help even if the issue lies more with the other 2, critically what is your current stem length (centre of steerer to centre of bars)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Not to sure!

    Im at work, working really hard at the min, I will measure when I get home, I'd guess it is approx 100mm though.

    The forks aren't the best and will eventually become a problem for me. I am already putting a bit aside for some new ones in 6 months or so, just undecided on what will be best for me and the bike.

    I changed the sag to be at about 15mm when i am in the attack position and that felt better than before I had made any adjustment.
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • A lot of great advice above. I would consider tyres as a priority in a British winter. I think the Rapid Robs might struggle in the wet mud. Maybe try a Nobby Nic on the front, it might give you a lot more control in those conditions I would suggest an eve Trailstar for the front and if you want to change both a Pacestar for the back. Experiment with different pressures as well. That can change the whole character of the bike and if it doesn't suit, you can change back.

    If you are riding with more experienced friends got riding tips off of them but a one or even half day day skills course can accelerate your learning curve and help you get the most out of your bike and your rides.
  • whitey161
    whitey161 Posts: 110
    Hi Staffswolf.

    OK yeah WRT the 1x10 drivetrain. That is to remove your front 2 or 3 rings and run a single chain ring up front. TYpically for british riding between a 30t or 34t will be best depending on your fitness and the terrain you ride. If you do ALOT of steep climbs go with 30t otherwise 32t is a happy medium. You can then remove the fron derrailleur and shifter. You will also need a 10 speed rear cassette and shifter plus a 10 speed chain. If you need to buy the whole drivetrain which i guess you will then prices will be around a bouts the following (take each with a pinch of salt):
    - Front Ring £30-50
    - Rear Derrailleur £30-60
    - Chain £10-30
    - Shifter £20-50
    - Cassette £25-60

    Get an 11-36t rear cassette if you can.

    You will lose a fair chunk of weight from the bike and i find its nicer to run. You can go all bling and run cluthch mech and narrow/wide ring for the ultimate setup or you can run doere/slx stuff for a very decent price/spec.

    Seriously think about tyre upgrades as one of the first changes though.
    Gravity-Fed Media - A page to showcase my MTB and Snowboard Edits

    http://www.facebook.com/GFM2005
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I wouldn't even consider that while running an XCM fork, after the tyres the fork is the next most important component.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Hi guys

    Just fitted my new pedals and I can see they are going to make a huge difference. Tyres will be next just trying to find out what's best for Cannock really.

    Fork is going to be Summertime more than likely.

    Also measured the stem to be at 80mm. This if from the centre of the stem to the centre of the handlebars. Measured my brothers at the same time and his is 70mm so going to have a blast on his over the weekend to see what I think.

    My rear brake pads seem to have worn out after no more than 7 rides! Those rides have all been in wet gritty conditions so I just put it down to that. When I was riding at the weekend I could hear the constant grind of gritty shite between the pads and the disks! Any recommendations on new pads?

    Thanks again for all your help.

    Gotta take the mrs to Liverpool for her birthday this weekend so may not get to try out me pedals. Sometimes wonder why I have a mrs ya know. Oh we'll I'm off work Monday so I'll be out all day.

    Have a good weekend.
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules
  • schmako
    schmako Posts: 1,982
    Probably the best place for brake pads, try the different ones out see which you prefer. I usually go for sintered or kevlar ones, last fairly long in the eternal bogs up here.
  • Cheers Schmako. Helix 6 brakes take a funny pad from what I can gather from reading. Are there any particular ones I need to be looking for?
    Rules the bends, Bends the rules