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2x10 or 1 x 10

AndyD2574AndyD2574 Posts: 1,034
edited December 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Looking to upgrade from standard 3x10 XT chainset

If I go 1x10 what else do I need apart from new 'clutch' rear derailleur and new thick thin front chainring?

If I go 2x10 can I run my existing rear set up and just change front derailleur and chainset?

Cheers
Specialized S Works Venge
Argon18 E114
Specialized Langster Single Speed
Scott Spark Expert 29'er
GT Avalanche
http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk

Posts

  • Moving from 3 x 10 I not classified as an upgrade. In my view it'd be a down grade.
  • CqcCqc Posts: 951
    Most people would disagree chunkers... And for 1x10 buy the chainring first and then only buy the clutch derailleur if the chain falls off often, I don't have a clutch mech and it stays on all the time and for 2x10 the back stays the same, so do the cranks, you only need to Change the chain rings and tbh you can use the same front mech or for better performance buy a 2 speed front mech...
  • AndyD2574AndyD2574 Posts: 1,034
    Im looking to shave some weight so suppose 1x10 is best option.
    Specialized S Works Venge
    Argon18 E114
    Specialized Langster Single Speed
    Scott Spark Expert 29'er
    GT Avalanche
    http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk
  • WindyGWindyG Posts: 1,099
    If you go 1 x 10 you will need shorter chainring bolts.
  • You'll need narrow chainring bolts unless you use a bash guard to replace the outer chainring and also you have to shorten the chain. As mentioned above, no need for a new rear mech but if you must get a medium cage ( GS for Shimano).
    Padyak rider
  • CqcCqc Posts: 951
    As mentioned above, no need for a new rear mech but if you must get a medium cage ( GS for Shimano).
    That's not true, it works fine with a long unless you like spending money, and if you cut off the outer chainring apart from the bits the bolts cover whilst leaving the bolts attached, then you get washers of the right width that stop you needing to buynew bolts.
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Cqc wrote:
    Most people would disagree chunkers...
    So by your definition changing to a rigid single speed must be a massive upgrade?
    Or just ditch the chain totally and use your feet?
    Where does it end?
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Cqc wrote:
    As mentioned above, no need for a new rear mech but if you must get a medium cage ( GS for Shimano).
    That's not true, it works fine with a long unless you like spending money, and if you cut off the outer chainring apart from the bits the bolts cover whilst leaving the bolts attached, then you get washers of the right width that stop you needing to buynew bolts.

    Not saying long cage wouldn't work, hence I said no need for new mech ( as 3x comes with long cage anyway).
    However, if the OP really want to upgrade, might as well get a medium cage for his 1x set up to minimise chain slap.
    Padyak rider
  • WindyG wrote:
    If you go 1 x 10 you will need shorter chainring bolts.

    same with 2x10.
  • mcnultycopmcnultycop Posts: 2,143
    Unless you run a bash.
  • POAHPOAH Posts: 3,369
    AndyD2574 wrote:
    Im looking to shave some weight so suppose 1x10 is best option.

    go on a diet - will be cheaper lol
  • kajjalkajjal Posts: 3,380
    I found going from 3 X 8 to 2 X 10 a big improvement as I stopped having to change front change ring that often.
  • POAH wrote:
    AndyD2574 wrote:
    Im looking to shave some weight so suppose 1x10 is best option.

    go on a diet - will be cheaper lol

    Eh? It won't cost a thing. Remove two rings. Set mech stops. Remove front shifter and cabling.
  • mcnultycop wrote:
    Unless you run a bash.

    Same with 1x10 then if you run a bash :roll:
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