Building a new race bike for next year

richiegwy

Thinking about building a race bike for next year and looking for thoughts/advice/experiences.

I currently ride a look 566 with SRAM Red "Black edition" but want something more agressive. I would consider my skills to be climbing firstly and dragging at the front of the group rather than sprinting.

I plan to most likely build a bike unless I can find what I want locally. My options are ;
1. 2012 Cannondale Supersix evo frameset with SRAM Red 22
2. 2013 Scott foil team issue HMX with Ultegra 6870 Di2
3. 2013 Scott foil team issue HMX with SRAM Red 22

I don't like trimming the FD so am discounting ultegra or dura ace mechanical. One thing if I go with red is what options I have for power meters outside of quarq as I am concerned non exogram chainrings will give poorer shifting, thoughts?

I will get 2 sets of wheels, 50mm carbon and lightweight alloy set, probably both from wheelsmith so I could go powertap but adds a lot of cost for 2 sets.

Not sure if I will keep the 566 for sportives/training or sell it and pick up something cheaper and set it up for 11 speed.

cycleclinic

You don't like triming a front mech man your picky.

Try Look or Garmin pedals as they do power outputs. That what I will be buying when I get round it so I can move them between bikes (I have 6 road bikes so 5 power taps or 5 quarq cranksets will cost far too much). For a race bike 50mm carbon wheels will be enough and they can be light. I have built 50mm deep tubular wheels with gigantex rims before that are under 1400g, light and aero. I see no reason why Wheelsmith cannot do the same if that is who you are going with.

Genesis Volante floats my boat more than the 3 you list but that is a personal choice.

richiegwy

The trimming thing is a personal feeling. If SRAM can deliver a mechanical group set that doesn't have it then why take one that does (not to start a shimano/SRAM argument but its 1 less thing to do). Also prefer SRAM for the short thow of the shift levers. Not sure what new ultregra or Dura ace 9000 are like but think the throw is much longer hence the turn towards DI2.

Thanks for the suggestion on the genesis they are nice but think I will stick to carbon.

On the pedals I forgot to mention I am on speed plays and really lie them so doubt I'll switch to the vectors or something

cycleclinic

trimming is not a hassle though. My old DA 8 speed has the best trimming function there is a slight flick of the left lever and it is done.

If you do not want quarq and you are not going to go over to Garmin or Look pedals (which I would recomend) then you are left with buying two power tap wheels which will be expensive no matter who you get them from. Powertaps also can only be serviced by Palligap the distributor and it is always very expensive, doubly expensive if you have two of them. The pedals are a really good option as if they do need re-calibrating or something like that you can still ride your bike. Not so easy with a crank based system. There are down sides to the pedal system but the upside (versatility) the pedal power meters win.

richiegwy

Any recommendation for other frame sets I should consider (particularly something which is mechanical and DI2 compatible)?

cycleclinic

De rosa R838 or its Ribble equivelent.

neeb

Potential servicing costs aside, I wouldn't necessarily discount powertap on price - the cost of the hubs has come down a lot recently and getting two sets of wheels with G3 hubs is probably going to be about the same price as a crank or pedal based power meter + two sets of comparable wheels.

jordan_217

Can you afford to replace the frames if you crash and write them off? Same goes for the components?? That was my first thoughts when I bought a dedicated race bike last year.

thegreatdivide

I picked up a 2012 Foil 10 frame in the summer (exact same carbon lay-up/weight as the current Team*) and kitted it out in Record and 303 FC tubs. I’m really pleased with the ride and although the press bang on about its extreme stiffness and subsequent harsh ride I’ve found none of the latter. I had it built up and did two sub 10 mile test rides before doing the London 100. Didn’t finish up feeling battered at all. I found it to be an amazing ride and can’t wait to get out on it again.

*2014 Foil 10’s have now been downgraded afaik.

FransJacques

Some very good advice above. Comme toujours...

I'll throw my opinion into the ring about the 'Dale as a proper race bike. After a recent race at Cyclopark I swapped bikes for a few cool-down laps with a teammate who has a Super 6 (non Evo, non High Modulus) and it was a revelation over my Cervelo R5. Handling was twitchier but more controllable and precise, front end was stiffer and drivetrain was stiffer. I've wanted one ever since. So good was it that a few cooldown laps turned into 4-5 at race effort to enjoy the bike.

Force is fine for racing, very little diff from Red.

Defo get hi-profile wheels for racing. North of 35 kph (i.e. most races) they make a difference. Depending on weight, be sure to build the rear cross 3 or cross 2 both sides. None of this radial NDS sheit, that's for Sunday special poseurs. Also, save some dosh on your rear spokes - the DS is faired and in dirty air anyway so CX Rays are pointless - just get butted (i.e. 14-16-14 or 14-15-14). For the NDS 14-17-14 should be fine (i.e. DT Revolutions or Sapim Laser) but can be springy. There are also some old-wives' tales about not using Sapim Lasers on the rear but I have no experience with them. In 10 years my DT Revolution wheels have blown 3 spokes but run pretty true. Your results may vary depending on weight.

richiegwy

Some great advice and experiences here guys, thanks. Keep them coming.

1st things first I think is try out Di2 and decide whether I want it or not. Then get my bonus, hopefully!!!

iPete

Are you building a race bike or building a bike to race on?
If the later, I'll assume you'll be starting with Cat 4 crits?

If yes again, build only what you can afford to replace. Find a stiff second hand alu frame and build up from there.

richiegwy

Not sure what you mean by building a race bike or a bike to race on?

The bike I have is more sportive and I want something stiffer and to get lower. I intend to take part in cat4 road races so not sure if a stiff alloy frame would be suitable especially coming from a carbon bike.

iPete

It wasn't clear if you wanted to build a new bike for every day use/club runs or a bike to race with.

If you are going for cat 4 crits many people (inc myself) build up cheaper/second hand alu frames on wheelsets and groupsets that are 'disposable'. Trashing an entire bike is very unlikely but worth considering how you'd feel if a frame was bent or wheel destroyed. The frame material is not really relevant, the right geometry and stiffness are more important.

Don't know much about carbon frames but on the allu side, for cits the CAAD 8/9/10 and Cervelo S1 are popular choices.

Of course if you can afford to replace the bikes mentioned at the top, go for it!

cycleclinic

My new bike for racing is an old Sannino steel frame. It cost me £200. If it get wrecked I will get another well something else second hand and swap the component s that survive.

richiegwy

This will be my main bike for racing (mainly road racing rather than crits) and for club spins. I will probably do some sportives with the club as well (I know there will be compromise here.

I may pick up something second hand for winter training during the year.

Monty Dog

If I was to build a dedicated road race bike it would probably be this:
Chinese aero carbon frame - DengFu etc.
SRAM Force
Choice of 50mm carbon wheels

maddog 2

I'm just building up a race bike for a mate and the spec is:

HongFu FM-066SL
DA 900 mechanical
and probably some DA wheels, although Zipps have been mooted.

Tiesetrotter

http://bikeswanky.co.uk/bike/2013-eddy- ... -clearance