why is my chain jumping gear?

7448stewart
7448stewart Posts: 79
edited December 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
My chain seems to be jumping gear at the rear when I shift, it is all set up correctly but I just dont know why its doing this, is there a problem with my chain??

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Chain worn, sprockets worn, debris between sprocket lifting the chain off or poor indexing, or a combination of 2 or more......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cool ill just take it in to the shop then!
  • If you've got any mechanical aptitude it will be cheaper to buy the tools and then you're set up for life. You only need a chain splitter, a chain whip tool and a cassette tool. Lots of advice on here how to do it or check out the Park Tools website.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    My chain seems to be jumping gear at the rear when I shift, it is all set up correctly but I just dont know why its doing this, is there a problem with my chain??
    Or not set up correctly.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • Cqc
    Cqc Posts: 951
    That used to happen to me until I changed cassette, which by the way waa an absurdly easy job, which cured it forever. Whilst changing cassette, it is worth changing the chain at the same time to stop the new cassette getting worn out.
  • cool thanks very much, iv seen them chain whips, how do you use them?
  • Cqc
    Cqc Posts: 951
    You wrap them around one of the larger cogs and have the handle on the left, and then you put a spanner or similar on the locking tool and push the spanner to the right whilst keeping the chain whip hand firm. It will need a bit of welly.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    If that’s your problem.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • cool thanks very much, iv seen them chain whips, how do you use them?
    Check on YouTube, however I'd disagree with cqc, wrap it around the smaller sprockets, that way you've got better mechanical advantage by being closer to the lockring you're trying to undo. Also I'd recommend getting an all in one lockring tool, ideally with a locating pin for the hollow axle, much easier than using a spanner and tool. Something like this ...

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb- ... -prod60748
  • thanks very much, ill get there eventually :)
  • No, use the larger sprockets. Not sure what Arthur is talking about, the advantage is in the bigger cogs
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I use around the third biggest, roughly.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • No, use the larger sprockets. Not sure what Arthur is talking about, the advantage is in the bigger cogs
    You don't gain much mechanical advantage from the larger cog, but it's far easier to apply the force smoothly if the two tools are closer together as in this park tools guide. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... el-removal

    Scroll about half way down.

    In the end it's a matter of personal preference.
  • Cqc
    Cqc Posts: 951
    There's not really any difference, apart from you get more leverage when you use a bigger sprocket and the chain part of the chain whip gets all used up. Arthur scrimshaw, my advice was for if you have the 2 separate parts like what most people have.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I use the second largest (not largest to remove any chance of it slipping into the spokes) good wrap on the sprocket and with a whole wheel to brace on, getting it close to the lock ring is pretty irrelevant!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • I disagree, if you're applying opposing forces with your hands it's easier to do so as close as possible to the same plane.
  • That's the thing, you're not really. You're just holding the cassette
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I put the wheel on the ground, vertical as if its on the bike, and push both down. Use your weight, not your muscles.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yup, me to, never had a problem at all.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • That's the thing, you're not really. You're just holding the cassette
    But by just holding the cassette you're applying the same or greater force as the lockring tool?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The OP came for advice on removing the locking, he's got it, you have some minority opinion on how it should be done, but I'm sure he"'s figured it out now how he wants to do it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Well. not really. He came on with a skipping chain. Assuming it's the cassette, now he knows how to do it.
    If it's something else, at least he got to spend some money.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • well that esculated quickly lol.

    Thanks for all the advice ill try both ways and let you know what I like best