Wheels for rim brakes

I need a set of clinchers for cx training, but am not sure about a few things. I'm undecided about either getting hand builts, likely archetypes 32/32 but am unsure about hub choice, or a cheap set of factory wheels. R500's have held up fine over a year and a half (now winter wheels) for me on the road, will they be fine for cx? I'm 70kg if it matters. If i go handbuilt:
I really like the feel of wide rims on the road, does it also provide a significantly different tyre profile with cx tyres? I'm planning on running 30mm mud2's.
How long can i expect to get out of rims before the brake track is finished? Is there much difference between how rims wear?
Which hubs would you recommend, i'm considering novatec, ultegra or hope if they are worth it?
Are the handbuilts worth it over r500s, fulcrum 7s etc?
I really like the feel of wide rims on the road, does it also provide a significantly different tyre profile with cx tyres? I'm planning on running 30mm mud2's.
How long can i expect to get out of rims before the brake track is finished? Is there much difference between how rims wear?
Which hubs would you recommend, i'm considering novatec, ultegra or hope if they are worth it?
Are the handbuilts worth it over r500s, fulcrum 7s etc?
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If you go down the factory-built route, Campag, Miche and Fulcrum make all cross-specific wheelsets with allegedly more durable and water/muck-resistant bearings and seals.
For handbuilt, I've found Hope and Dura-Ace hubs to give good results in all conditions over a number of seasons. Ambrosio's Zenith cassette hubs look nice but I don't know what their reliability for cross is like. If you happen upon any via eBay, Mavic 571s & Sachs-Maillard New Success are very good sealed-bearing cassette hubs from times gone by (early 90s) that will stand up to a CX environment and take modern HG-style cassettes.
David
My Clements at 35psi were letting me out corner my team mate who was running Dugast Tubs on the muddy descent, I never once felt like my tyres were holding me back. I think if you run the PDX's tubeless on Velocity 23 rims you'll be pretty close to Tub performance.
No punctures, but i admit it is a fine line at that level and was relatively lucky I suppose. But 30-35 should be fine?
Long live the pompino
Often run 25psi with my clinchers but a lot depends on how rocky the course is. I judge it on the day.
I'd agree with that, and scope out any heavy duty roots before hand and ride accordingly.
Long live the pompino
To up the strength you can up the spoking to 24/28 and to save a bit 'o dosh you could go Laser front and rear. Don't know why people insist on putting 'aero' spoke on wheels that'll never travel faster than 25 kph. Fashion? Fad? Ego?
When I tried cross tyres on my Hed Ardennes I was impressed. At my weight tho they wouldn't last long as race wheels with their 18/24 spoking. I shoulda ordered a second pair in stallion build...
True, although Archetype are exactly the same thing and you can have them built at a fraction of the cost of the Ardennes
Yes, they are nice... the internal tubeless ready profile might give you some grief, unless you use a tubeless rim tape, like Stan's 21mm one. Other rim tapes just curl and wrinkle causing all sorts of issues... trust me...
No... you don't need Velox tape.... you need Stans or Velocity kit