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clicking in fork/headset

pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
edited January 2014 in MTB workshop & tech
I only notice this clicking when riding on roads as when Im riding trails there are loads of noises going on - landing jumps, chain jumping etc. It's worrying as it is an important area.

When I jump up a little curb, manual, wheelie, anything really that significantly changes the forces in the bike I hear a little click.

It sounds like its coming from the headtube area. I've tightened up the star nut and can't feel play in the headset.

Whn I hold on front brake and gently rock the bike forward, there is play, but this is the connection between lowers and the stanchions, If i hold the lower, I can feel the end of the stanchion play through the lower. Could this play cause a click that sounds like its coming from the headtube? It really does sound like its coming from headtube

Posts

  • CitizenLeeCitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    The click may be a flat spot in one of the headset bearings.

    I think it will be unrelated but if you can move your lowers then it's time for a fork service as that means your bushings are worn.

    Actually, do the forks top out badly as that could be another cause of the click... vibrating through the steerer making you think it's coming from the headtube?
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    CitizenLee wrote:
    The click may be a flat spot in one of the headset bearings.

    I think it will be unrelated but if you can move your lowers then it's time for a fork service as that means your bushings are worn.

    Actually, do the forks top out badly as that could be another cause of the click... vibrating through the steerer making you think it's coming from the headtube?

    Yeah I reckon its time for a service.

    Hm could be the headset Ive been riding it agrresively at least two three times a week for about five months.

    No they dont top out, I like them firm anyway so I never top em out, get about half/quater inch away from topping out after big drops etc

    Does anyone know if you can upgrade rockshox revelation rlt dual posistion air 150mm 26" tapered to the RCT3 model by upgrading damper or something? Might do this because I was thinking about getting a new fork but if I can do this I may do it instead
  • CitizenLeeCitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    CitizenLee wrote:
    The click may be a flat spot in one of the headset bearings.

    I think it will be unrelated but if you can move your lowers then it's time for a fork service as that means your bushings are worn.

    Actually, do the forks top out badly as that could be another cause of the click... vibrating through the steerer making you think it's coming from the headtube?

    Yeah I reckon its time for a service.

    Hm could be the headset Ive been riding it agrresively at least two three times a week for about five months.

    No they dont top out, I like them firm anyway so I never top em out, get about half/quater inch away from topping out after big drops etc

    Does anyone know if you can upgrade rockshox revelation rlt dual posistion air 150mm 26" tapered to the RCT3 model by upgrading damper or something? Might do this because I was thinking about getting a new fork but if I can do this I may do it instead

    Headset sounds like a likely candidate if you've ruled out fork top out.

    No play in the front wheel / axle either I take it? Brake rotor, calliper and mount fully tight?

    As for Fork upgrade, give TFTuned a call and they will be able to talk you through the options available for that model.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Yeah Il go with headset to begin with seeing as its cheapest.

    Il get some new bearings, I cant remember how the headset fits together, but I wont need to remove the whole headset and get it pressed again will i?

    http://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/headsets/blaze
  • CitizenLeeCitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Yeah Il go with headset to begin with seeing as its cheapest.

    Il get some new bearings, I cant remember how the headset fits together, but I wont need to remove the whole headset and get it pressed again will i?

    http://dartmoor-bikes.com/hardware/headsets/blaze

    No mate, just the internals. You should be able to get replacements from Slam69 but if not you can get generic ones on eBay. Are your forks straight 1 1/8th or taper?

    As for assembly order, if you don't have instructions to hand just take a photo as you take it apart so you can refer back to it when rebuilding.
    Current:
    NukeProof Mega FR 2012
    Cube NuRoad 2018
    Previous:
    2015 Genesis CdF 10, 2014 Cube Hyde Race, 2012 NS Traffic, 2007 Specialized SX Trail, 2005 Specialized Demo 8
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,599
    Or it's just a cable clicking against something.
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  • Ive had over tightened stem face plate bolts cause a creaking when alot of force is put through the handlebars. Like wheelies, standing up and cycling (when you pull on the handlebars more), braking.
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    It's just a single click. Not cables or hose. Pretty sure it hasn't always done it so it's probally worn bearing

    It's tapered. Thanks, will check out slam 69
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Replaced bearings and it's still there every now and again. It's really prominent when you land the front wheel first, or when the wheel drops from a wheelie or something.

    I don't think I should tighten thr star nut anymore as it's already tight, but I did notice something. The upper bearing doesn't sit completely flush, it rocks slightly in the upper cup by about a mm so I think it could be that. I didn't use anything to install them I just pushed em in by hand.
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    That'll probably be it then.

    Pushed what in by hand?

    Check you have a gap to enable it to pre-load. Star nut can be taken out after it is pre-loaded correctly, so shouldn't be tight.
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Pushed the upper bearing into the cup, but I didn't really need to push it, it's not exactly tight. I don't know how I'm going to get it secure, perhaps it needs to be knocked in further? I could use an upside down sprocket head?
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    I have 2-3mm gap for star nut, I mean even when the stem bolts aren't tightened I don't wanna tighten the star nut anymore as I believe it has pulled the headset etc together sufficiently. I think the whole headset can be tight, and the upper bearing still can rock on a big enough inpact, like the front wheel landing. If that makes sense
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Sounds like the bearing is not sitting the the races correctly
  • pesky_jonespesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Yeah that's what I think. Spoke to guys at slam 69 and explained the situation, they had a blaze headset in store so had a look at the upper cup, and said the bearing sits snug, without any movement in the upper cup (which mine doesn't). They are kindly sending me out a new one foc.
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