Novatech rear hub problem?

on-yer-bike
on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
edited July 2015 in Workshop
When I install a cassette and tighten the lock ring the hub stops turning. Its Ok with very little torque on the lock ring.
Its an 11 speed campag cassette and a brand new hub.
Pegoretti
Colnago
Cervelo
Campagnolo

Comments

  • 247cycleshop
    247cycleshop Posts: 36
    You need to check if the back of the cassette is binding on the hub.

    Is the hub body classed as 11sp compatible or just 10sp?

    I have seen this a couple of times on Mavic wheels and Mavic now do a 3 shim aftermarket kit to space the cassette away from the hub body.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    Which Novatec model?

    The freehub will be 11 speed compatible and you don't need to over torque the lockring. the 40 Nm is bullxxit, don't torque it to 40 Nm or you'll strip the threads.
    It could just be a case of the freehub rubber washer not sitting properly or being installed the wrong way round.
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    Which Novatec model?

    The freehub will be 11 speed compatible and you don't need to over torque the lockring. the 40 Nm is bullxxit, don't torque it to 40 Nm or you'll strip the threads.
    It could just be a case of the freehub rubber washer not sitting properly or being installed the wrong way round.
    Its a NovaTec F582. Wanted to ride the wheel for the first time and this occurred. Its nowhere near 40Nm before it starts binding. Where is the freehub rubber washer, I cant see one?
    Its not touching behind the cassette.
    I thought 11s and 10s hubs where the same?
    Its a very stripped down freehub with only half the splines of a Campag freehub
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    on-yer-bike wrote:
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    Which Novatec model?

    The freehub will be 11 speed compatible and you don't need to over torque the lockring. the 40 Nm is bullxxit, don't torque it to 40 Nm or you'll strip the threads.
    It could just be a case of the freehub rubber washer not sitting properly or being installed the wrong way round.
    Its a NovaTec F582. Wanted to ride the wheel for the first time and this occurred. Its nowhere near 40Nm before it starts binding. Where is the freehub rubber washer, I cant see one?
    Its not touching behind the cassette.
    I thought 11s and 10s hubs where the same?
    Its a very stripped down freehub with only half the splines of a Campag freehub

    The problem (clearly) is that as you tighten the lockring, it presses against the rubber washer that protects the outboard bearing of the freehub. This then prevents the bearing to run smoothly. So, your black rubber washer is either badly fitted or it's the wrong way round.
    Try removing it with a flat screwdriver (you need to remove the axle cap end with 2 x 5 mm Allen Keys first), then refit the cassette, tighten the lockring and you will see that the problem is gone. You can ride without the washer if you want to, but if you find a way to sit it properly that's the best solution
    left the forum March 2023
  • Velonutter
    Velonutter Posts: 2,437
    on-yer-bike wrote:
    When I install a cassette and tighten the lock ring the hub stops turning. Its Ok with very little torque on the lock ring.
    Its an 11 speed campag cassette and a brand new hub.


    I had exactly the same problem on some replacement hubs I bought from the far east.

    They have left a spacer on the wrong side of the hub, can't remember whether the spacer went inside the freehub or on the other side, it typically happens if they have switched the freewheel from Shim/Shame to Campag, my mate picked it up and as soon as I moved the spacer everything worked fine.

    Sorry I can't remember which side I moved the spacer to, but it was obvious when you look closely at it.
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Its the flange on the hub nut that is interfering with the lockring. The rubber seal is under the nut flange and doesnt want to be moved. Cant see any spacers that are moveable
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    There are no spacers on your model.

    If you remove the cap end on the freehub side, then you can remove/refit the rubber washer.
    The other way of doing it is to fit a tiny spacer before the cassette, so that the lockring doesn't dig so deep as to press against the rubber seal... but it's hard to find the right spacer, as Campagnolo don't make them and the Shimano won't fit
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    I cant budge the seal without potentially wrecking it. Ive compared the length of the hub to a Campag one and they are the same at 35.5mm, so its the recess that is too small for the lockring. So you are saying that the rubber seal is stopping the hub nut from being fully tightened?
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    on-yer-bike wrote:
    I cant budge the seal without potentially wrecking it. Ive compared the length of the hub to a Campag one and they are the same at 35.5mm, so its the recess that is too small for the lockring. So you are saying that the rubber seal is stopping the hub nut from being fully tightened?

    That's what I am saying
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Ok. taken the seal and out reversed it. No difference. Removed the seal altogether, no difference. This is because the hubnut fits inside the seal and is actually being stopped going in any further by the bearing. The seal is not the issue. Been to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNUpXfwj ... e=youtu.be
    and there is a silver washer that that I havent got but I can only see that would make the situation worse.
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    What's the hub nut got to do with the cassette lockring, which I understand is the problem?
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    ugo.santalucia wrote:
    What's the hub nut got to do with the cassette lockring, which I understand is the problem?
    The hub nut is stopping the the lock ring from being tightened. Or to put it another way, the lock ring is pushing on the hub nut and preventing the axle from turning.
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    This is exactly the issue
    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 3&t=115505
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    I don't see why the lockring of an 11 speed should interfere with the nut while the other lockrings don't seeing they are the same thing.
    Anyway... any chance you have a Shimano axle nut? They are different and when a freehub is swapped, those need to be matched to the freehub in your model. Ask Steve at Sdeals if they have swapped the freehub to a Campag one leaving the original caps.
    Include me in the email
    left the forum March 2023
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Might the hub be incorrectly assembled? My Novatec hub has a spacer between the outer DS hub bearing and the inner freehub bearing; if it was the wrong one then the freehub body would foul the hub.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    DesWeller wrote:
    Might the hub be incorrectly assembled? My Novatec hub has a spacer between the outer DS hub bearing and the inner freehub bearing; if it was the wrong one then the freehub body would foul the hub.
    Is that a Campag freehub?
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    According to this
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNUpXfwj ... e=youtu.be
    Im missing the silver washer that is transferred from the NDS to the DS when converting from Shim to Campy. Not sure how it would help
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    on-yer-bike wrote:
    According to this
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NNUpXfwj ... e=youtu.be
    Im missing the silver washer that is transferred from the NDS to the DS when converting from Shim to Campy. Not sure how it would help

    That's a different model. Your hub does not have that ring washer to swap between left and right. I think you guys are making a bit of a mix between the Novatec rear hubs, which are similar, but different at the same time.

    Yours is a 482, with a Campagnolo freehub, also called 582... it is not the classic 172 (Ambrosio) and it is neither the 392 (also called PRO-Lite)
    left the forum March 2023
  • on-yer-bike
    on-yer-bike Posts: 2,974
    Not sure where the rest of this thread has gone to? Had to buy new end caps from BDop, another £15. I couldnt get much sense out of the supplier of the hubs and they have now gone on holiday for two weeks.
    Pegoretti
    Colnago
    Cervelo
    Campagnolo
  • ariege_cyclist
    ariege_cyclist Posts: 98
    Read this thread a few weeks ago when I had this same problem (seems like Novatec haven't sorted the problem), and thought I'd post another solution.

    I bought a Token, aluminium lock ring which is slightly shorter than the original campag one and allows the ring to be torqued up tight but doesn't interfere with the end cap. Probably a cheaper option than new end caps from bdop.

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