BB squeeking

desmorrow

Have a boardman team fs which was recently giving a really loud squeak from the BB area so I bought a new one and installed it last night (bb-7000). Took her out today and it was fine for about 30 mins but then a squeak came back.... Not as bad as before but not nice on my ears. Funny thing is I went through a couple if big puddles and suddenly it disappeared....

When I installed the BB, I didn't have anything to measure the torque - I just have the big BB spanner (whatever it's called...). Is it possible to tighten the cups too far - would that cause the noise? Or what the other likely causes? i doubt it's a problem with the new BB.

oxocube1

It's fairly difficult to over-torque the cups considering the length of a standard hollowtech BB tool. Did you apply grease in the correct places according to the instruction sheet that would have come with it? And did you put the correct number of spacers in depending on the width off the BB shell? Also I would double check the torque of your crank bolts and check the pedals too. Both are common causes of creaks.

MikeMc

I had a really annoying BB squeak pulled the BB out, Loctited it in place, replaced the BB basically did everything I could think of and did everything that has been written to stop the squeak.
Shame it wasn't the BB, got a puncture one day and when I put the back wheel back on I did the skewer up tighter than normal and the squeak disappeared.

boblo

Yeah, my recent B&B squeak turned out to be bars/stem interface.... I could have sworn it was the BB....

shindig

I had a BB squeak. Turned out to be the rear bolt through qr not tight enough. i found out after stripping and refitting the BB. I had one on my other bike and it turned out to be the furrule turning in the front thumbshifter. A quick smear of copper grease fixed it. Squeaks can be difficult to pin down and are usually not where you think they are.

desmorrow

Cheers. I
- checked the chain rings - fine
- took the pedals off, greased and put back on
- took out the axle, cleaned and fitted back.

One thing I noticed too is that I swear the bike is harder to pedal than it used to be - or I am getting more unfit. But my hardtail seems to fly whilst this FS is more sluggish that it used to be. If you overtighten the cranks would that create friction? Or is it more likely the rear hub?

kirby700

If the cranks are the same as mine on my team fs (Fsa comet) its very easy to over tighten the cranks when refitting. The torque figure on the cap is only about 7Nm then I think about 15 on the crank arm bolts.

frogmancometh

Just stripped my Boardman FS down today to cure creaking, having removed the crank arms and the bearing covers and seals it looks like there is another seal that needs removing before you can grease them, is this correct?

Chunkers1980

No esp. What are they?

cooldad

Unlikely the bearings are actually serviceable.

frogmancometh

cooldad wrote:

Unlikely the bearings are actually serviceable.

Bit confused here! Are you saying the bearings are serviceable?

Chunkers1980

No,

cooldad wrote:

Unlikely the bearings are actually serviceable.

frogmancometh

Strange, according to this they are. http://www.saddleback.co.uk/FileDepository/manuals/CeramicSpeed_bottom_brackets.pdf

Chunkers1980

Chunkers1980 wrote:

No esp. What are they?

cooldad

Maybe but is that an official Srimano (they mention Sram and Shimano BBs) guide?

I've had a go at Shimano and sometimes you are lucky with the little plastic top, normally it disintegrates.

So I will rephrase. They are designed to be replaced, not serviced.

desmorrow

frogmancometh wrote:

Strange, according to this they are. http://www.saddleback.co.uk/FileDepository/manuals/CeramicSpeed_bottom_brackets.pdf

don't take that seal out!!! That's what I did lol..... it's a sealed BB and when you take that out, the ball bearings move out of place and you can;t get em back - so I wrecked my BB - BB-7000.

When I put a new BB in,i had the same noise so it probably wasn't even the BB to begin with - grrrrrrrrrr. Check everything else - chain rings, pedals, cranks etc. May not even be ur BB.

As for my slow bike, I took the rear wheel off and the axle seemed tightish - so I lossened off the cones and seems a little better - how do you know when it's perfected??? seems a case of trial and error?

cooldad

Yep, adjust to a fraction loose, and when you do the QR up it takes up the last bilitrilimetre of slack.

desmorrow

thanks cooldad, much appreciated. There's just a tad of play in the rear wheel now - is that an issue you reckon?

Chunkers1980

Yep. Get rid of it.

desmorrow

this is a nightmare. got rid of the play and wheel runs grand so thought all was brill. loosened calipers and adjusted brakes back up only to find the caliper rubs the pads. basically no clearance at all on the wheel side... in fact the clearance is so low I don't think a new pad would fit in now.

On adjusting the lock nuts is it possible to disturb the alignment on the axle which is turn would affect how the disc positions relative to the caliper? There seems to be about the same amount of thread either side of the lock nuts but if this has an effect, how would I fix it?

miceden

When you say "the caliper rubs the pads" do you mean that the pads are rubbing against the disc... or am I having a brain stall?

If the pads are rubbing the disc though it could just be that the brake was accidentally pulled while the wheel was out and you were working on the bike... in which case the pistons just need to be moved back, remove the wheel and gently insert a flat bladed screwdriver between pads and lever apart.

And just for future ref... sometimes the creaking on FS bikes can be the linkage, so the bearings, bushings, etc