New positioning. How long to wait?
Legobrickman
Posts: 36
Ok, So i'm tinkering around with the saddle positioning (Fore/Aft and Tilt) trying to find a position than doesn't give me a backache after 50 miles.(3 hrs +) and still not make my hands go numb.
I've heard people say that you need to ride on it for a while to give your body time to adjust to the new position.
How far or long would people recomend?
I've heard people say that you need to ride on it for a while to give your body time to adjust to the new position.
How far or long would people recomend?
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Comments
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For the 'numb hands' problem, you might do better by moving the position and amount of inward tilt of the brake hoods. Also, the tilt of the handlebars should be tailored to give you the best fit. Don't be concerned with how the set-up 'looks' compared to that of TdF racers, just make it work for you.
Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA0 -
Earlier this year I lowered my bars by taking 2cm of stem washers out - quite a big step in one go. It felt terrible for the first couple of hours, but by about the 4th 2hr ride it felt completely normal and comfortable, and completely counter-intuitively it actually felt easier on my back. I now realise I had been riding around too upright for ages. Everyone is different, but I reckon definitely give it a few hours on the bike before deciding if a new position works.0
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For my backache, raising the saddle helps. I find that higher than recommended keeps the back pain away, lowering it a bit makes seated climbing easier, at the cost of mild pain off the bike0
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Thanks all for the advice. I've tried alsorts so far. Seat up/down, Forward/back, Tilted Just can not seem to get comfortable for long periods.
Jay, By "moving the position and amount of inward tilt of the brake hoods." do mean the handle bars themselves or the hoods position on the bars?0 -
I mean the position of the hoods on the bar - which might mean re-doing the bar wrap.
Adjustments can be made for both the front/back location of the hoods - for the amount of reach and where your hands lie on the bar, and also to the amound of inward tilt of the hoods - so your hands rest against the hoods in the most comfortable position.
Of course the tilt of the bar itself can be adjust via the clamp on the stem.
Another concern is the amount of vertical drop from the seat to the bar - if it is too much it will increase the amount of body weight supported by your hands, and can cause back & neck trouble. If the stem is already at the top of the steer tube, then maybe flipping the stem upside-down will raise the bar.
Jay Kosta
Endwell NY USA0 -
Just to show we are all different, my brake levers are set toe-out rather than toe-in to relieve some numbness I had. Whether toe-in or toe-out, any changes should be small and incremental until the problem ceases.0
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Do you stretch?0
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After i ride or run yes but thats about it.
I'm wondering if moving the seat back would do any good incase i'm arching my back to much.0 -
If the saddle is set up correctly for your pedal action moving it to solve your issue will create a whole new issue (assuming your saddle is already where it needs to be).
Saddles should be a fixed point around the BB to put you in the correct pedal position. Other fit issues should not be corrected by moving the saddle.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
smidsy wrote:If the saddle is set up correctly for your pedal action moving it to solve your issue will create a whole new issue (assuming your saddle is already where it needs to be).
Saddles should be a fixed point around the BB to put you in the correct pedal position. Other fit issues should not be corrected by moving the saddle.
Not quite that simple. The correct pedal position is surely one that doesnt result in back ache?!?0 -
styxd wrote:Not quite that simple. The correct pedal position is surely one that doesnt result in back ache?!?
Errrr no. Backache is more likely to be a symptom of poor fit in relation to the bars, which your pedal action will not affect.
1st rule of bike fit club - never mention bike fit outside of the bike fit club.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
smidsy wrote:styxd wrote:Not quite that simple. The correct pedal position is surely one that doesnt result in back ache?!?
Errrr no. Backache is more likely to be a symptom of poor fit in relation to the bars, which your pedal action will not affect.
1st rule of bike fit club - never mention bike fit outside of the bike fit club.
Dunno about that. You change the position of one thing, it tends to have a knock on effect for everything else.
Where abouts do you get the pain in your back OP?0 -
styxd wrote:Dunno about that. You change the position of one thing, it tends to have a knock on effect for everything else.
Exactly - which is why the saddle needs to be a fixed point dictated by your relationship with the BB.
Bar shape/size and stem are the way to alter reach, not moving the saddle.
If you can not get a good fit by the above the top tube is too long or short (depending).Yellow is the new Black.0 -
Not sure where the last post went but i'll try again.
The saddle positioning feels comfortable enough.
Went with the "KOPS" and "Heel on the pedal" and it feels fine.
Maybe i need a shorter stem or a just a proper bike fit.
We have a Watt bike at home and all i have to do is raise the saddle from the wifes position and everything is fine, Just a shame i dont seen to able to replicate it's settings on the real one.0 -
Legobrickman wrote:Not sure where the last post went but i'll try again.
Went with the "KOPS" and "Heel on the pedal" and it feels fine.
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Could be where you went wrong. There's hundreds of post's regarding bike fit, and saddle for/aft positioning available for free on the internet.
I'd ignore smidsys advice and have a read. Here's a good one to start with: http://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bik ... oad-bikes/
If you don't get anywhere, then perhaps consider a bike fit.0
