All the gear, no idea.......new tubs.

San Marzano
San Marzano Posts: 132
edited November 2013 in Road general
I am very lucky to have been a donated a carbon wheel-set.

The only pitfall is that they are tubs. The thought of puncturing in the peaks on my own, late night on a summer ride is a bit intimidating to say the least.

From what I’ve been told you need to take an ‘old’ pre-glued tub as your spare, carefully peel off the glued tyre once flat and then put the ‘old’ tub on, inflate and you’re away.

Is this correct? How come the replacement tyre doesn’t need to be glued on like the flat one was? The one at the moment seems very secure around the rim.

Does that make sense?

Thanks in anticipation.

Comments

  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    The "dried" glue on the replacement tub will stick enough to the old glue already on the rim. You can decide whether it is worth removing and re-gluing the replacement tub once you get home depending on how hard you ride.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • Thanks mate, appreciate that.
  • also less likely to puncture in the first place as I understand.
  • earth
    earth Posts: 934
    There are various tyre sealants that you can take as well. You might be limited by whether your tyres have removable valve cores.
  • napoleond
    napoleond Posts: 5,992
    They're arguably easier to change than a clincher.
    Insta: ATEnduranceCoaching
    ABCC Cycling Coach
  • Pross
    Pross Posts: 40,451
    You could always take some tub tape with you too. It doesn't stick a tub as well as glue but will give a bit more security for getting you home.
  • JayKosta
    JayKosta Posts: 635
    With tubs (sew-ups), I carry 2 spares - 'just in case..'

    New tubs can be very difficult to mount on a rim. BEFORE using any glue or tape, mount the new tub on a rim to get it stretched a little - then center the tread / base tape on the rim and inflate to full pressure - let it standard that way over night.
    With the new tubs that I use, I need to moisten the base tape with water to allow it to stretch enough to mount. And be VERY careful to keep the valve stem straight in the rim when mounting - if the stem gets pulled too much the innertube can be damaged.

    A fully inflated tub is quite tight on a rim even without glue, just don't attempt extreme turns, etc.

    Jay Kosta
    Endwell NY USA
  • earth wrote:
    There are various tyre sealants that you can take as well. You might be limited by whether your tyres have removable valve cores.

    I use Decathlon's sealant - 3 Euros a can, and you don't need removable valve cores. You just screw the can's nozzle end onto the valve (having undone the valve's little nipple of course!) then squirt away. Good for 100psi.

    I ride about 12000km a year, all on tubs, and my puncture rate is currently 1 per year, (which the sealant sealed perfectly anyway).
  • Hi Bernie - sounds like a plan - is this just a temp' fix to get you home?
    Cheers Jon
  • Take a pre-glued spare, remove the punctured one, fit the good one... end of the story, the rest is nonsense and scaremongery.
    If you want to use sealant, fine, but it won't fix 100% of the punctures, so to be on the safe side you do need a spare tub anyway
    left the forum March 2023
  • When I get home do I need to do anything with the pre-used one (now on the wheel). Does it need to be glued on any further?

    Thanks
  • When I get home do I need to do anything with the pre-used one (now on the wheel). Does it need to be glued on any further?

    Thanks

    typically not. Try to displace it with your thumbs when still inflated... if it doesn't bulge, leave it alone
    left the forum March 2023
  • Hi Bernie - sounds like a plan - is this just a temp' fix to get you home?
    Cheers Jon

    No, it's a proper fix that lasts the lifetime of the tyre.

    You just need to top the pressure up when you get home.

    And, the icing on the cake, you are henceforth protected* against future punctures because you now have latex in your tub!

    *not 100%!

  • I use Decathlon's sealant - 3 Euros a can, and you don't need removable valve cores. You just screw the can's nozzle end onto the valve (having undone the valve's little nipple of course!) then squirt away. Good for 100psi.

    I ride about 12000km a year, all on tubs, and my puncture rate is currently 1 per year, (which the sealant sealed perfectly anyway).

    you're my inspiration - gonna do the same. Works on latex inners? Riding in France and Switzerland I think the puncture hazards are fewer anyway.

    I ride the same distance, have just switched to tubs and will be on them full time - I have a spare but if there's a simpler solution then I'll use it.
  • FSR_XC
    FSR_XC Posts: 2,258
    I carry this with me just in case:
    http://www.tufo.com/tufo-tyre-sealant/

    Never had to use it in anger yet.
    Stumpjumper FSR 09/10 Pro Carbon, Genesis Vapour CX20 ('17)Carbon, Rose Xeon CW3000 '14, Raleigh R50

    http://www.visiontrack.com
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    earth wrote:
    There are various tyre sealants that you can take as well. You might be limited by whether your tyres have removable valve cores.

    I use Decathlon's sealant - 3 Euros a can, and you don't need removable valve cores. You just screw the can's nozzle end onto the valve (having undone the valve's little nipple of course!) then squirt away. Good for 100psi.

    I ride about 12000km a year, all on tubs, and my puncture rate is currently 1 per year, (which the sealant sealed perfectly anyway).

    What tubs are you using out of interest and are you riding these through the winter months? I'm very wary of my tubs getting cut up, since the Open Paves I tried on my other wheels cut up quite badly on just a few rides. Got Corsa EVO CX IIs on my 50mm carbon wheels and really don't feel like riding them on anything except bone dry and clear roads.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • earth
    earth Posts: 934
    Hi Bernie - sounds like a plan - is this just a temp' fix to get you home?
    Cheers Jon

    No, it's a proper fix that lasts the lifetime of the tyre.

    You just need to top the pressure up when you get home.

    And, the icing on the cake, you are henceforth protected* against future punctures because you now have latex in your tub!

    *not 100%!

    Another benefit I found is that the latex inner tube in the tub holds air for longer after sealant has been used.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    also less likely to puncture in the first place as I understand.

    Not from my experiences - but I've just been massively unlucky on tubs. Even with sealant.
    And massively lucky on normal tyres.

    Now this sealant thing - we ride tubs because they're the fastest riding tyres. And then we bung sealant inside them ? Hmmm.
  • drlodge wrote:
    earth wrote:
    There are various tyre sealants that you can take as well. You might be limited by whether your tyres have removable valve cores.

    I use Decathlon's sealant - 3 Euros a can, and you don't need removable valve cores. You just screw the can's nozzle end onto the valve (having undone the valve's little nipple of course!) then squirt away. Good for 100psi.

    I ride about 12000km a year, all on tubs, and my puncture rate is currently 1 per year, (which the sealant sealed perfectly anyway).

    What tubs are you using out of interest and are you riding these through the winter months? I'm very wary of my tubs getting cut up, since the Open Paves I tried on my other wheels cut up quite badly on just a few rides. Got Corsa EVO CX IIs on my 50mm carbon wheels and really don't feel like riding them on anything except bone dry and clear roads.

    Normally I use Vittoria Corsas (the newer ones aren't called 'EVO' anymore), but I'm trying out some Mavic Griplink/Powerlink (front/rear) at the moment, as hopefully the front will have extra grip in the winter.

    I use tubs all year round.
  • cougie wrote:

    Now this sealant thing - we ride tubs because they're the fastest riding tyres. And then we bung sealant inside them ? Hmmm.

    Firstly, I think the jury's out on whether or not tubs are 'faster', as tyres.

    I ride them because, a) they are much more comfortable than clinchers, and b) the package, (wheel/tyre) is far lighter than clinchers.

    The sealant isn't going to change very much - it just puts a layer a few microns thick inside the tube.
  • earth
    earth Posts: 934
    cougie wrote:
    also less likely to puncture in the first place as I understand.

    Not from my experiences - but I've just been massively unlucky on tubs. Even with sealant.
    And massively lucky on normal tyres.

    Now this sealant thing - we ride tubs because they're the fastest riding tyres. And then we bung sealant inside them ? Hmmm.


    I was thinking that as well and there is a weight penalty but I can't tell much difference. But I
    it's more that a few microns coating the innertube. With most sealants you put about 30 ml in or more on a 23mm tyre.
  • earth wrote:
    cougie wrote:
    also less likely to puncture in the first place as I understand.

    Not from my experiences - but I've just been massively unlucky on tubs. Even with sealant.
    And massively lucky on normal tyres.

    Now this sealant thing - we ride tubs because they're the fastest riding tyres. And then we bung sealant inside them ? Hmmm.


    I was thinking that as well and there is a weight penalty but I can't tell much difference. But I
    it's more that a few microns coating the innertube. With most sealants you put about 30 ml in or more on a 23mm tyre.

    True, but most of that 30ml is water, which will evaporate over time; how about less than a mm?!