1x9 chainring size
Cqc
Posts: 951
Hi I'm thinking of ging from 3x9 to 1x9 with a race face narrow wide chainring. I have a 12-34 cassette and wasn't sure between the 32t and 34t sizes (they don't come in 33t). I want a gear low enough to get up the climbs with but one high enough to pedal hard on the downhills as near me there are some pedally descents and I'm thinking of entering some gravity enduros next year so I don't want to be spun out downhill either. I mainly ride in the Surrey hills and sometimes south Wales. When I was looking at the ratios, the gaps at the harder gears were bigger between the 32 and 34 than at the easier gears. What do you guys recommend? Is there a noticeable difference between the two?
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32, 33, 34 front wil make less difference than having a 11-36 rear for what you want0
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Yeah but SRAM don't make 9 speed 11-36 cassettes0
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why a narrow wide chain ring? hat do you think you will gain over a non profiled one?
and why 36T?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Getting a non wide narrow ring and a chain guide costs more than just a wide narrow ring, and I don't want to buy a new cassette that won't work as perfectly, so what do you think, 32t or 34t?0
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You'll still need a chain guide as you won't have a damped rear mech, so narrow/wide will cost you more.
So what gears do you have now you can't do without? I don't know how you ride, where you ride, how fit you are so can't tell you what chainring to get, but ride a standard triple in the middle ring and if you can get up all the hills you want to in second, then get a 34, if you have to drop to first at the rear, get a 32!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
As said above - you can only decide based on what you are capable of riding with your current set up.
I have been riding with a view to switching to 1x10 from 3x9 and sticking in my middle ring as much as possible - easy enough in much of england - struggled on prolonged climbs in wales though - figure If I can make a 32t front and 32t back work for most of my riding then switching to 32t front and 36t rear will be fine.
I dont think shimano or sram do a 11-36t cassette for 9 speed do they?Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0 -
paul.skibum wrote:As said above - you can only decide based on what you are capable of riding with your current set up.
I have been riding with a view to switching to 1x10 from 3x9 and sticking in my middle ring as much as possible - easy enough in much of england - struggled on prolonged climbs in wales though - figure If I can make a 32t front and 32t back work for most of my riding then switching to 32t front and 36t rear will be fine.
I dont think shimano or sram do a 11-36t cassette for 9 speed do they?
Shimano do, i'm using one. (Deore HG50 i think)
I converted from 2 x 9 (24/38) to 1 x 9 running a 32t ring & it seems about perfect for me.0 -
I've seen a Shimano12-36 (HG61) not an 11-36 - and it weighs a tonne.....well 450g!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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I can get up most climbs in the middle ring (32t) of the 3x9 set up but then the max gear on some of the descents is too light so would a 34t make a substantial difference on the descents without making the min gear on the climbs too hard? Have any of you switched fom 32 to 34 or vice versa and felt a difference? Btw are you sure I'll need the chain guide?0
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Well if you go for a 32T from what you have just said it won't meet all your needs and never will on the descents, however if you go for a 34T all you will need to do is get fitter for it to work for you, everybody is different I can ride uphill with a 34T - 11-36 but others I know need a 32T but overall they are fitter than me, so it's only something you can work out . As to needing a chain guide it will depend on the terrain for XC use no, however for downhill if might be needed.0
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Cheers, just worried that 34t up front may still not meet my needs downhill and also not meet my needs uphill either in which case I would use a 32t so at least I've got it good uphill. Is it a big jump?0
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Whoops sorry just realised I have a 11-32t cassette, does that mean if I get an 11-34t cassette with a 34t chainring I will have the same low gear as a 32 front 32 rear but a higher high one? Thanks0
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You need to be gunning it a bit to spin out a 32t to 11t set up - roads and so on maybe but I would struggle to find a sufficiently smooth track where I wasnt on my DH bike to need more gears - even my DH bike is only 36t to 11t max gear and I usually find I need can still pedal that downhill on road (tyres do drag quite a lot though!)Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0
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I agree, you'll be doing over 27mph by the time you are near spinning out (as in over 120rpm cadence - in reality you can do short burts at 160rpm if you try) on 32/11, by which time on most bikes the benefits of an extra mph or 2 you may be able to squeeze out are fairly limited unless it's in competition, and off road on a hardtail at that speed you probably won't want to be sitting and pedaling anyway!
If going 1x on anything but a DH bike though, always get the widest cassette feasable (11-34 for a 9 speed, ignoring that you can build a very heavy 11-36 using an HG61 and modifying to get an 11T smallest sprocket).Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Spinning out in top is much less of a problem than not having a low enough ratio to get up big climbs.
I use 11-36 cassette with a 34t chain ring. Usually thats fine for me but I found it pretty hard going on the Quantocks today.Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350