Respraying Rockshox Lowers

BigAl
BigAl Posts: 3,122
edited November 2013 in MTB general
Thinking about spraying them white (currently silver). Yes, yes, it's just a vanity project.

Obviously I'll need to remove lowers and ensure no paint on the insides. But, tell me - if I remove the seals from the top - can I re-use them or will I need new? Does it just rely on me being careful and delicate?

Comments

  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    It's a good opertunity to fit new so why not?
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    BigAl wrote:
    Thinking about spraying them white (currently silver). Yes, yes, it's just a vanity project.

    Obviously I'll need to remove lowers and ensure no paint on the insides. But, tell me - if I remove the seals from the top - can I re-use them or will I need new? Does it just rely on me being careful and delicate?

    Provided your seals are still in good condition then you should be able to carefully lift them out and re-use them. Might be worth ordering a spare set just in case though.

    Funny you should post this as my Lyriks are away getting sprayed at the moment, from white to black :)

    I'm a dab hand a spraying things but the forks needed a service anyway, and the guy can get them professionally painted so I thought why not do both together :)

    Here's his FB page if you decide you don't want to do it yourself. He certainly knows his shocks and forks, and prices are much better than TFTuned et al....
    JMacleanTuning
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  • pilch
    pilch Posts: 1,136
    What about powder coating? reckon that would be more durable
    A berm? were you expecting one?

    29er race

    29er bouncer
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    pilch wrote:
    What about powder coating? reckon that would be more durable

    Powder coating uses heat. You don't want to heat fork lowers.
  • BigAl
    BigAl Posts: 3,122
    Thanks all,

    I'll just be careful when removing them then! Doing them myself as I have an airbrush and compressor.

    I'd rather put any cash for new seals/tuning into a new pair of forks sometime in the next year
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    BigAl wrote:
    I'd rather put any cash for new seals/tuning into a new pair of forks sometime in the next year

    The Lyriks will last forever if you keep them running nice ;)
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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    It's worth spending a few quid on a new set of seals to keep them nice. They are an excellent fork and wilp last forever. if nothing else it will keep them good to sell on next year.
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    pilch wrote:
    What about powder coating? reckon that would be more durable

    Most fork lowers are magnesium? Powdercoaters won't do magnesium (there's a good reason for it, which was explained to me years ago by Andy at Triple S, but I can't for the life of me remember what it is now, lol).
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    pilch wrote:
    What about powder coating? reckon that would be more durable

    Most fork lowers are magnesium? Powdercoaters won't do magnesium (there's a good reason for it, which was explained to me years ago by Andy at Triple S, but I can't for the life of me remember what it is now, lol).

    It’s a softer metal, susceptible to heat (becomes brittle) and is combustible. If it does combust then you need a special extinguisher as water and the like will only accelerate it.

    I think some powder coaters will still do it mind you, but I think most others will say no.
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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    It's not a good idea to heat any lowers unless you intend to replace the bushed afterwards.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    You can use a hair dryer to remove bushes, which won't generate enough heat to do any damage ;)
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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    CitizenLee wrote:
    You can use a hair dryer to remove bushes, which won't generate enough heat to do any damage ;)

    Not a good idea to take out and refit the same bush. They will deform.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Is there good paint on them? Getting a good key onto the metal is a bugger, I used a proper etch primer and got it on quick after removing the paint to mimise oxidisation but still got pretty poor adhesion, was never happy with the results... Spraying onto paint rather than metal will probably work better.

    It might be possible to remove the seals intact but I've never managed it, always ended up with a little damage so decided not to refit.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    CitizenLee wrote:
    You can use a hair dryer to remove bushes, which won't generate enough heat to do any damage ;)

    Not a good idea to take out and refit the same bush. They will deform.

    Sorry, I meant damage to the lowers ;)
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  • BigAl
    BigAl Posts: 3,122
    Northwind wrote:
    Is there good paint on them? Getting a good key onto the metal is a bugger, I used a proper etch primer and got it on quick after removing the paint to mimise oxidisation but still got pretty poor adhesion, was never happy with the results... Spraying onto paint rather than metal will probably work better.

    It might be possible to remove the seals intact but I've never managed it, always ended up with a little damage so decided not to refit.
    Yes, paint is still on them and, yes, I agree with you - using the existing paint will be the best primer (after a gentle sand)
  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    CitizenLee wrote:
    pilch wrote:
    What about powder coating? reckon that would be more durable

    Most fork lowers are magnesium? Powdercoaters won't do magnesium (there's a good reason for it, which was explained to me years ago by Andy at Triple S, but I can't for the life of me remember what it is now, lol).

    It’s a softer metal, susceptible to heat (becomes brittle) and is combustible. If it does combust then you need a special extinguisher as water and the like will only accelerate it.

    I think some powder coaters will still do it mind you, but I think most others will say no.

    You'd need much higher temperatures than powdercoat cures at to risk it combusting. It's magnesium alloy, not pure magnesium.
  • CitizenLee
    CitizenLee Posts: 2,227
    Haha yeah that's a good point... lowers wouldn't melt.

    I wonder why some powder coaters don't like mag then? Maybe the oven heat is still enough to make it brittle?
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  • Kowalski675
    Kowalski675 Posts: 4,412
    CitizenLee wrote:
    Haha yeah that's a good point... lowers wouldn't melt.

    I wonder why some powder coaters don't like mag then? Maybe the oven heat is still enough to make it brittle?

    Possibly (and your face wouldn't thank you if your forks snapped, lol). The reason Andy told me definitely made sense, but it was so many years ago I can't remember what he said now, lol. I'll have to ask him again sometime. If he says no that's good enough for me though, and I wouldn't let another coater do my magnesium engine covers after he'd said no (not a load bearing part, but expensive to replace).