Cable disk brake calipers
Comments
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On the subject of calipers, my daughter's boardman has BB5s on them and I'm having a devil of a job of getting them a) not drag, b) actually develop any functional power and c) return to the off position after applying the brakes.
a) can be solved by spending time adjusting the brakes, annoying as it can be.
b) and c) are really quite annoying. I've only just recently replaced the inner and outer cables and not long before that the pads, but after a single race, we're back to where we started. I've noticed that when moving the cable back and forth in the outers there's quite a lot of drag which I guess is the problem. I've ordered some SRAM slickwire to see if that helps, but I can't really afford to buy a new set of cables for every race. Is there some trick I'm missing (other than getting BB7s etc!)?0 -
The BB7 mounting washers and spacers look exactly the same as V brake mounts. I didn't measure them so I can't be certain they are exactly the same, but I'd be surprised if they weren't.0
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I did consider trying to use the BB7 hemispherical washers with the spyre but decided not to as I wasn't sure it was a wise idea. Ended refitting the BB7s and after spending ages straightening the rotors, they were setup and adjusted relatively quickly and easily. Now I can set the inboard pad a lot closer resulting in braking power being a lot stronger. I'm going to have to learn to be a bit easier on the rear brake as it locks quite easily now. I suppose its just a case of getting used to continually maintain and adjust the BB7. This is my first disc bike so I'm used to rim brakes, where the only maintenance was picking bits of metal out of the pads.
Still think the spyre is a much nicer and better design though 8)0 -
Yes, the spherical washers on Vee brake pads are what are used on BB7s - have used them on other makes of disc caliper.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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HYRD's job done.0
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Does the bike have the top of bar scissor levers in place still or just the normal road brake/gear shifters?!PuttyKnees wrote:On the subject of calipers, my daughter's boardman has BB5s on them and I'm having a devil of a job of getting them a) not drag, b) actually develop any functional power and c) return to the off position after applying the brakes.
a) can be solved by spending time adjusting the brakes, annoying as it can be.
b) and c) are really quite annoying. I've only just recently replaced the inner and outer cables and not long before that the pads, but after a single race, we're back to where we started. I've noticed that when moving the cable back and forth in the outers there's quite a lot of drag which I guess is the problem. I've ordered some SRAM slickwire to see if that helps, but I can't really afford to buy a new set of cables for every race. Is there some trick I'm missing (other than getting BB7s etc!)?0 -
simonj wrote:
Does the bike have the top of bar scissor levers in place still or just the normal road brake/gear shifters?!PuttyKnees wrote:On the subject of calipers, my daughter's boardman has BB5s on them and I'm having a devil of a job of getting them a) not drag, b) actually develop any functional power and c) return to the off position after applying the brakes.
a) can be solved by spending time adjusting the brakes, annoying as it can be.
b) and c) are really quite annoying. I've only just recently replaced the inner and outer cables and not long before that the pads, but after a single race, we're back to where we started. I've noticed that when moving the cable back and forth in the outers there's quite a lot of drag which I guess is the problem. I've ordered some SRAM slickwire to see if that helps, but I can't really afford to buy a new set of cables for every race. Is there some trick I'm missing (other than getting BB7s etc!)?
It still has the scissor levers in place.0 -
I think the ones on the boardman are notorious for making them spongy. Not sure if it's all scissor brakes or just these ones. I have them on my boardman CX too. I think real racers don't see them being that usefull so some remove them. I don't race but like them for computes and canal rides when it's useful to see what's ahead by sitting more upright sometimes whilst still keeping hands on the brakes.0
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OK, thanks. They don't get used so I might as well remove them.0
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SRAM recommend putting an inline barrel adjuster into the cable routing. Is this strictly necessary? I'm wondering whether that's another source of friction and another place where mud/water can enter the line. When I remove the top brakes, maybe a continuous section of cable from brake to caliper is better?0
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i removed the inline adjusters from BB7 equipped bike. I've re adjusted the brakes many times and never touched the adjusters. They are only there to take up cable slack, I just pull the cable tight and put a tiny bit of preload on the torque arm (by moving by hand) before tightening the pinch bolt. You can check if its ok, the torque arm should move as soon as you starting moving the brake lever. This needs checking, redoing whilst in the hew cable stretch process, after they shouldnt need messing with. thats my experience with them anyway 8)0
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Brilliant, thanks. Will ditch them then!0
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I have one interrupter on the rear brake, which I find useful for commuting, less so for other purposes... it doesn't add sponginess or give me any issueleft the forum March 20230
