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New To UST Tyres/Wheels, and having major problems...

scatty76scatty76 Posts: 23
edited December 2013 in MTB beginners
Hi, Fed up with trawling through hundreds of Posts and Forums, I've decided to just ask for some helpful advice!

I have a set of Shimano MT65 UST Ready Wheels, and a pair of Maxxis LUST CrossMark 2.25"....and COMPLETELY NO experience with wheels/tyres that does not use inner tubes.

So my problems are as follows;

They are a REAL tight fit (Had to use a hair dryer to get them on the first time!). Anyway, I cannot see how I am going remove/replace them to stick an inner tube in when I get the inevitable puncture out on the trails(I have arthritis in my hands). I have emailed Maxxis, who tell me they will blister the sidewalls if I use a sealant or Slime puncture protection and invalidate the warranty.
Does anyone use Slime or any kind of puncture protection with Maxxis LUST tyres???

My second problem is that they do not seem to hold air pressure very well at all. Both tyres lost at least 10 PSI of pressure over a period of 3 weeks(I'm using an expensive digital pressure gauge). Also, I did not hear the 2 "ping" noises people say you get when the tyre beads fully lock into the wheel rim. However, I did not use washing up liquid and water mix when fitting them, is that a major screw up on my part?

Just in-case it helps, I have not rode on the wheels or tyres yet, as my bike build is not finished...In-case that helps lock the bead or something?

All help, comments will be appreciated as I really like these tyres!

Thanks, Scott.

Posts

  • PolfPolf Posts: 64
    They are a REAL tight fit (Had to use a hair dryer to get them on the first time!). Anyway, I cannot see how I am going remove/replace them to stick an inner tube in when I get the inevitable puncture out on the trails(I have arthritis in my hands).
    Most tubeless ready wheels with tubeless tyres will be a tight fit. It's what allows you get some air into the tyres without using a high pressure air hose. A good track pump should do it. I carry a little squeezy tube of washing up liquid in my camelback which, when smeared on both tyre rims will help it slip on to the wheel. Get some good steel tyre leavers too. (I have never had to use it on the trail).

    I have emailed Maxxis, who tell me they will blister the sidewalls if I use a sealant or Slime puncture protection and invalidate the warranty.
    Have you put the tyres on with no sealant in them at all? I have never heard of tubeless tyres not requiring sealant. The sealant is what is going to stop you getting punctures on the trail. Without it, going tubeless is pointless. I would get back to Maxxis and ask them exactly what they want you to put into a tubeless tyre?????? Either that or ignore them and put some sealant into your tyre. I have used sealant in non tubeless tyres and it has worked fine and I have never had any blisters. The general consensus is usually "Stans Sealant" I can personally vouch for it and it seems to be the sealant of choice. Follow the insructions on the bottle. It is simple and you can not go wrong.

    My second problem is that they do not seem to hold air pressure very well at all. Both tyres lost at least 10 PSI of pressure over a period of 3 weeks(I'm using an expensive digital pressure gauge).
    If you are only losing 10 psi over 3 weeks without sealant then I would say that the tyres and wheels are very good in terms of tubeless. Putting the sealant in will stop the loss of psi and will plug any small gaps. (My valve core came out and the sealant plugged it without me noticing, that's how effective it is) Search for stans no tubes on Youtube for any basic instructions.

    Also, I did not hear the 2 "ping" noises people say you get when the tyre beads fully lock into the wheel rim.
    You wont always hear it. You wil know when you do and you will [email protected]#t yourself if and when it happens.

    It may seem like a faff to start with, but it is well worth it and simple when you know how and get used to it.

    Hope this helps.
    Yeti SB95
    Nukeproof Mega AM 275
    On One 456C

    "Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, does not try it on"
  • Hi thanks, I'm not totally sure so please don't think I am being flippant, but I think you are talking about TUBELESS READY tyres and not UST or the Maxxis version of the same, LUST(which I have). UST tyres, do not HAVE to have sealant, many people ride them without sealant...
    But, I have read about many people destroying their LUST tyres using stans or other sealants, as it has a reaction with the sidewalls of Maxxis LUST tyres, and only Maxxis LUST, I've not heard of any problems with other makes of standard UST...
    I just want some kind of puncture protection that does not damage LUST tyres, like SLIME(That green goo stuff!)...
    Also, if people ride UST tyres without using any sealant, then surley that is quite a lot of air pressure to loose in 3 weeks without riding them? Mabey I should have used soapy water so the bead slipped in proper?
    Thanks, Scott...
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,904
    I am old and still use tubes, but know plenty of people who use all sorts of Maxxis tyres, LUST and other, with different sealants and none seem to have any problems.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • PolfPolf Posts: 64
    The disadvantages of skim reading :? I would still take the small squeezy bottle of washing up liquid and some good steel levers with you. It will be the only way of repairing on the trail and the soap does help. I have never understood the advantage of UST with the exception of a small weight loss, The biggest advantage of tubeless for me is no punctures. I swapped to a mud tyre a couple of weeks ago and found at least 12 punctures in my tyre that I did not know I had. That's a lot of riding time saved and no farting around on the trail. I didn't really understand the difference between LUST and tubeless ready when I first went tubeless. I had a Maxxis Ardent LUST tyre that I put Stans sealant in with no problems or blistering.
    Yeti SB95
    Nukeproof Mega AM 275
    On One 456C

    "Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, does not try it on"
  • Thanks Cooldad!

    Can I ask how old were your friends LUST tyres, when I say old I mean when they were bought new and fitted with sealant. I'm just wondering because Maxxis said in their reply email to me that they are only now going to be putting it in their NEW catalog that sealant should NOT be used with LUST tyres because it has reaction with the Light Sidewall Technology, and causes blistering! They also asked me to tell all my friends, like it's some kind of tyre disease!

    I have read on other Websites that quite a few people have had this problem, and even a LBS commented that this is not unusual with LUST tyres! Though I have not come across this problem on this website!
    Sorry to go on and on, but at £75 a pair I can't afford for them to go up the swanny! I wonder how many people on BikeRadar have used LUST tyres with sealant of various makes, and have or haven't experienced this blistering? If I start a new topic where would the best section/place be to put it on BikeRadar?
    Again, as always, thanks for your help!

    Hey Polf!

    Don't worry you won't be the first to have skimmed in such a way, or the last! Just curious, how long ago did you use your LUST tyres with Stans as in when did you buy them and put them on? Don't think it is a new thing with them, as some of the posts regarding blistering LUST's are a few years old now. BTW, have you ever heard of this problem? And yes I will take a small mix bottle of soapy water with me when she is finally built up!

    Thanks Polf!

    Scott
  • PolfPolf Posts: 64
    It was a new tyre at the start of this year. It had sealant in it for around 5 months until I changed it. I still have the tyre and have just checked it. It definitely has no damage to the inside. Is it purely weight saving that you want to achieve?
    Yeti SB95
    Nukeproof Mega AM 275
    On One 456C

    "Never trust a man who, when left alone in a room with a tea cosy, does not try it on"
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,747
    Nothing in the sealant can/should cause blisters or any other damge to any tyre! After all it's mostly latex which form the basis for rubber anyway!
  • Not really too concerned about the weight saving, but I really need the puncture protection if I'm using these tyres, as I said I have arthritis in my hands, and can't imagine even physically being able to remove the tyre and fit a tube miles from home! I don't have a car, and so have to ride at least 5/10 road miles to get to the coastal path or wherever I'm riding that day, which is why these tyres are perfect for me...

    Have put a link below which may explain my worries using sealant with LUST...

    http://www.tetongravity.com/forums/archive/index.php?t-249415.html

    Hope it works, as never added a link on here before...

    And again, thanks...
  • That's what you would think Mr Rookie, but in that link about halfway down they are talking about acetone and other chemicals in the stuff...I don't know...
    Scott
  • adamfoadamfo Posts: 763
    Continental and Schwalbe both make sealants that are inert. Stan's is not.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/cont ... prod109883
  • Hi adamfo, thanks for the link.
    I assume that means it will NOT react with any of the stuff the LUST tyre is made from.
    Also, when I fitted the tyres was the 10 PSI I lost in both over 21 days normal, I did not used sealant of any kind. Would the INERT sealant help with getting the bead to seal much better, so I would have less air pressure loss?
    Yeah I know its called sealant for a reason, but I just wondered if it was more for puncture protection or as an alternative to Stans and the like. I've not heard of inert sealant before. Do you use this sealant yourself?
    Thanks, Scott
  • adamfoadamfo Posts: 763
    I use tubes in my road and MTB and they all lose pressure in a month regardless if new or not.
  • be careful using washing up liquid as a lube. it contains lots of salt to thicken it which rots your wheel. i have seen a few fairly new mx bikes with corroded wheels because of this.
    also, make sure the beads of the tyre are squeezed together in the well of the rim, on the opposite side to where you are trying to pop the last part of the tyre onto the rim.
    most tubeless leaks i've had are from the valve not being airtight. put you freshly inflated wheel in the bath to check
  • I've personally used Stans No tubes tyre sealant with various Maxxis tyres over a number of bikes for >7 years.
    Never ever had an issue with any LUST tyre ever using sealant, the only thing that happened was I stopped getting punctures with just 3-4 total tyre shredders in all that time that no tyre would have survived. I was getting 3-4 per month prior to tubeless with spates of good luck... If I ever stop using tubeless it means I've stopped riding MTB.

    Had the same issues when I got my first tubeless set and spent a good hour rolling around on the floor and swearing a lot. There is however a technique but it takes practice you work some slack around the tyre from say 6 o'clock to 12 o'clock in both directions simultaneously but its tricky but once you get it down it pretty easy but don't listen to people who just say its easy right off ... its not. Placing the tyre near a hot radiator helps a bit and put the wheel outside to get cold (and shrink a bit) if possible, if your still struggling but get it close using the previous technique then face the side that's not over the rim away from you and use a double handed motor cycle grip twist technique towards you (wearing gloves helps with grip) and it should pop over without you hurting your fingers and thumbs, still requires some wrist action and swearing but does work on really stubborn tyres. As I've said the 6-12 will usually work with some practice just take your time if all else fails trial side... sod it and use tyre levers if your putting in a tube anyway (I always carry some tyre boots as something that kills a tubeless is likely to require a tyre boot in as well as the tube if your using sealant.. though why use tubeless without sealant?, only protects against pinch flats without it).

    Once its on refitting becomes easier after some mileage on the tyres as they supple up and stretch a bit through riding. I do get your concern about trial side repairs, usually if you've got a puncture on a tubeless tyre its a big hole
    so using levers to remove it isn't such a big deal as if you damage the bead your putting in a tube anyway.
    If you are repairing a tubeless trail side then seating the tyre with a trail side pump can be difficulty so i'd suggest a CO2 just to seal it, nice even with tubes and wet cold rides to instantly pump up your tyre though :).

    So yeah it's tough at first but with practice it gets better, you'll also impress when you help trailside when you get the technique down and sort someone's puncture out for them and decline their tyre levers :P.
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