Drive chain problem with Veloce

Broono83
Broono83 Posts: 75
edited November 2013 in The workshop
Hi,

Have recently been having an issue with my 2012 Veloce 10sp. The shifting etc has been perfect for 14 months and no tweaking or adjustment required.

About 2 weeks ago I was cleaning the drive train out and knocked the chain off at the cranks. No big deal I thought, finished cleaning and replaced chain but I immediately noticed I could no longer change to an easier gear on the cassette by as many gears at once as I used to. As in, I could change down 3 or 4 previously in one go but the shift lever now seemed too "tight" and would only shift one or two gears at a time.

Bike still seemed to work OK so I thought it might loosen off while riding however no my chain is regularly (almost continuously) skipping on gears under power but not when I turn the pedals while off the bike. The shifting is more sluggish and ponderous than it was going both up and down the cassette.

I have tried taking the slack out of the RD cable using both the barrel adjust and pulling the cabe through the set screw but this made no difference. Think the limit screws are fine as I can shift to all gears successfully without leaving cassette at either end or shifting gears on its own. Checked for wear on the cassette and it looks OK. Checked the chain (visually) for stiff links but couldn't see any.

Any other ideas? Apologies for the lengthy post.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Clearly it has nothing to do with the chain just falling off the cranks.

    You index the rear using the cable tension, you don't 'take out the slack'.

    I'd suggest a read of parktools on how to index the rear and start at the beginning, but it sounds like it's either the rear derailleur (maybe the pivots are getting stiff) or indexing!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks for the reply.

    Tried indexing the rear and the shifting seems fine, also looked at the integrity of the cable along it's length and it seemed OK although after over a year its maybe due replacement anyway? However when riding to work this morning the chain was still skipping on gears particularly in the middle of the cassette. Will take it to LBS on the way home.

    Cheers
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Maybe you've created a stiff link?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks for the further replies.

    Apparently the cable had partially siezed but the main offender was a heavily worn chain (I don't have a chain tool to remove and check this ATM) and a partially worn casette.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Broono83 wrote:
    Thanks for the further replies.

    Apparently the cable had partially siezed but the main offender was a heavily worn chain (I don't have a chain tool to remove and check this ATM) and a partially worn casette.

    You don't need a chain tool to check chain wear - you just need a ruler.........
    Faster than a tent.......