Novatec freehub body bearing replacement?

buckles

Just trying to find out how to replace the bearings in these Novatec freehub bodies?

Harry Rowland says to get 2 x 6901 2RS bearings but I can't see any way of removing the old ones or even getting the new ones in...

ugo.santalucia

It's tricky.
The bearings have a spacer in between, which needs to be dislodged a bit. Mallet on the inner bearing, this way you should get enough room to fit a screwdriver and mallet on the outer bearing... once that one comes out it's all easy.

Which hub model? The bearings depend on the size of the axle

WhipIt

I have the superleggera hubs, which I believe are the same...

You can use your bodging implement of choice, pushed in from the inboard side to move the spacer to one side and then bodge the outer bearings out. The spacer follows.

Drifting the inner bearing out is more difficult - mine exploded everywhere leaving just a shell, so go carefully!!

arlowood

If you don't want the hassle of bodging a removal and replacement of the knackered bearings then do as I did and order a replacement from BDOP in Taiwan.

Mine was for a Novatec F482SB and I needed the B1 type replacement. Very smooth transaction with Paypal payment and tracking of the order. All-in-all it cost me just over £30 and that was for the more expensive hardened steel version.

http://www.bdopcycling.com/Wheel%20Part ... 010SPD.asp

ugo.santalucia

I recommend BDOP cycling too

The A type fits the 172/272/162/Ambrosio while the B1 type fits the 482/582/482SL and the 712 models. The C type fits the 392/PRO-Lite one

spasypaddy

ah the old novatec freehub. wish i could fix mine.

i have two brand new freehubs sitting around at home. happy to post one on to you as one was donated by a forummer on here just a few weeks ago.

ugo.santalucia

spasypaddy wrote:

ah the old novatec freehub. wish i could fix mine.

i have two brand new freehubs sitting around at home. happy to post one on to you as one was donated by a forummer on here just a few weeks ago.

Have you not sorted the rear hub yet?

jermas

It's a pretty straightforward job pressing out the bearings (if you have an appropriate size socket and a vice). If you try it, make sure you remove the outer bearing first as described above. The inner bearing is held in place by a circlip, which must be removed before the bearing can be extracted.

cycleclinic

Wheels manufacturing make a bearing removal tool that makes very easy work of removing the bearings. They also make a comsumer press with drifts which gets the bearings in first time with no drama.

You cannot easily press the inner freehub body bearing out with a socket well you can but it may not come out in one piece and then you are stuffed. If the bearing is in bad shape and the outer race has rusted in place the bearing can fall apart when removing with a socket. A bearing removal tool has an expanding wedge that puts pressure on the inner race stopping separating from the rest of the bearing during removal so even siezed bearings come out in one piece.

I need to start stocking these freehubs again. I think the distributor has stock again. so no need to get it posted from Taiwan.

ugo.santalucia

thecycleclinic wrote:

Wheels manufacturing make a bearing removal tool that makes very easy work of removing the bearings. They also make a comsumer press with drifts which gets the bearings in first time with no drama.

You cannot easily press the inner freehub body bearing out with a socket well you can but it may not come out in one piece and then you are stuffed. If the bearing is in bad shape and the outer race has rusted in place the bearing can fall apart when removing with a socket. A bearing removal tool has an expanding wedge that puts pressure on the inner race stopping separating from the rest of the bearing during removal so even siezed bearings come out in one piece.

I need to start stocking these freehubs again. I think the distributor has stock again. so no need to get it posted from Taiwan.

There will soon be wide availability of Novatec spares from the UK and available to buy online for the DIY fettlers. It will be a few weeks though. The guys at Sdeals.com are taking delivery of a large stock of them straight from Taiwan.
Re. the bearing removal tool/press... I thought about getting one, but the cost of these tools is staggering and I have the feeling they'll never pay for themselves. I have built a decent press to fit new ones in, but I still have to knock them off, which is not ideal

jermas

If the bearings are rusted in, a quick (gentle) blast with a blow torch is what you need. The aluminium freehub body expands much more than the steel bearing. The bearings become quite a loose fit and are much easier to press out. They are also easier to press in this way.

collie27

Can anyone advise what version freehub will fit a D352SB disc hub?

ugo.santalucia

collie27 wrote:

Can anyone advise what version freehub will fit a D352SB disc hub?

You need an A type, which is the most common

collie27

Thanks.

Ta also for the lead on a DA 7800 axle via email earlier in the week. No luck. #paperweight

munkster

I seem to be making a habit of resurrecting old threads today. Am just looking at how to get the bearings out of my F482SB freehub and am already stuck on how to get the black seal out of the freehub body on the outboard side. The outboard bearing is directly behind it. I am just worried about trying to be too forceful with this rubber seal thing since it seems to mark easily when I try and use, say, some blunt tweezers. Freehub is detached from hub, just to clarify that. Am I missing a trick here? Thanks.

ugo.santalucia

munkster wrote:

I seem to be making a habit of resurrecting old threads today. Am just looking at how to get the bearings out of my F482SB freehub and am already stuck on how to get the black seal out of the freehub body on the outboard side. The outboard bearing is directly behind it. I am just worried about trying to be too forceful with this rubber seal thing since it seems to mark easily when I try and use, say, some blunt tweezers. Freehub is detached from hub, just to clarify that. Am I missing a trick here? Thanks.

Flat screwdriver, pop it out as if you were opening a beer bottle in just one go

munkster

What, so prise it out with screwdriver under it via the axle hole using the body of the freehub as a pivot for the lever sort of thing?

Thanks, too, by the way ;-)

Muzzledoctor

Thread resurrection!

I have a 10-speed F482SB rear hub.

I rebuilt half of my freehub last night and noticed that the outboard bearing had some surface rust on it. Knocked that out and cleaned it up. The bearing is a 6902 2RS for reference. I didn't have a new one to hand so I removed the seal, cleaned it out and repacked with greese. I'll replace this another time when I buy some more bearings.

The inboard bearing was absolutely fine, so I didn't remove that (hence the half build). The thing I noticed when I pushed the outboard bearing back in is that you can push it in too far and overload the bearings. The way I got round that was to push the bearing in but not all the way, and then use the threaded end cap to preload the bearing.

I popped the (not very useful) rubber dust cover back in and the hub spins much better.

ugo.santalucia

Muzzledoctor wrote:

The inboard bearing was absolutely fine, so I didn't remove that (hence the half build). The thing I noticed when I pushed the outboard bearing back in is that you can push it in too far and overload the bearings. The way I got round that was to push the bearing in but not all the way, and then use the threaded end cap to preload the bearing.

Yes, that is a good way of doing it