New Chain slipping

sharpet

Went to the LBS the other day and they advised to get a new chain and rear cassette. After reading forums I opted just to get a chain for my 9 speed bike. Before changing chains I had no problems with slipping gears etc but took the LBS advice and bought a chain. I had my bike for 4 years now and the chain has seen well in excess 1500miles.

So I bought a connex 9SG and removed links to make the same length as the old chain. It had a stiff link but I have resolved that now. Went for a test ride and when I put power through it seems to jump ever so slightly and not all the time. Its not slipping gear but sounds like it is trying.

Not sure if this is the best description however has anyone else had this problem?

Thanks

supersonic

Are the chainrings worn?

sharpet

Had no problems with the old chain slipping. Is there a way of checking properly?

nicklouse

sharpet wrote:

Had no problems with the old chain slipping. Is there a way of checking properly?

You look at the teeth. And old things working together and then fitting a new thing and them not working normally means the old things are dead.

jimothy78

From the first post it sounds like you changed the chain but not the cassette. If the chain was badly worn then it's likely that the cassette (and, as Nick says, chainrings) may also need replacing.

Changing just the chain will only work if you do it before it's caused damage to the sprockets and rings.

Dave_P1

I expect a new front chainring and / or cassette is needed too.

kajjal

As the chain stretches it wears into the cassette. Fit a new chain and due to the wear on the cassette and it being shorter it will slip in the most worn rear chain rings. Front chain rings are normally fine as they are a lot stronger.

Chunkers1980

Er, not really.

sharpet

thanks,

any suggestions on which cassette to buy?

Chunkers1980

If 9 spd. Merlin are knocking out xt 11-32 for £27.50, which is a bargain.

Mad_Malx

Dave_P1 wrote:

I expect a new front chainring and / or cassette is needed too.

If 'well in excess of 1500 miles' means less than 2000 I really doubt chainring wear, and if it's been kept reasonably clean then there won't be much damage to the cassette either, in my experience of wet & muddy Wiltshire roads.
(This topic reappears with very conflicting opinions every few weeks though).

Recheck for stiff links and alignment before opening your wallet.

Edit - just realised I strayed into MTB by mistake - in which case I guess 1500 miles might be wearing the cassette, but it's still low for chainrings IMHO, unless you leave your chain dirty.

I'm going back to the road.

Dave_P1

Mad_Malx wrote:

Dave_P1 wrote:

I expect a new front chainring and / or cassette is needed too.

If 'well in excess of 1500 miles' means less than 2000 I really doubt chainring wear, and if it's been kept reasonably clean then there won't be much damage to the cassette either, in my experience of wet & muddy Wiltshire roads.
(This topic reappears with very conflicting opinions every few weeks though).

Recheck for stiff links and alignment before opening your wallet.

Edit - just realised I strayed into MTB by mistake - in which case I guess 1500 miles might be wearing the cassette, but it's still low for chainrings IMHO, unless you leave your chain dirty.

I'm going back to the road.

It's not that low as it all depends on the conditions you ride in.
I also said and / or as without seeing any pictures I wouldn't like to say for sure, but in my expierence with various products the chainrings can wear very quickly.

njee20

If 'well in excess of 1500 miles' means less than 2000 I really doubt chainring wear, and if it's been kept reasonably clean then there won't be much damage to the cassette either, in my experience of wet & muddy Wiltshire roads.

Yep, sadly that's a very good lifespan off road - you can kill chains/cassettes in a couple of hundred.

The LBS recommended you replace the chain and cassette, you didn't, you need to. Worn chainrings very rarely cause skipping, there's so much more engagement on them, they have to be absolutely annihilated before they skip. Chain suck is more common with worn rings. But anyway, new cassette and you'll be reet.

booktownman

I've just had the same problem - put a new chain on myself after using a chain checker and discovering it was *just* worn. Bought the checker to avoid having to replace the cassette every time a new chain goes on.

Anyways, with the new chain fitted it skips all over the place on a couple of sprockets. I've put the old one back one for a few more hundred miles before I pony up for a cassette as well.

BTM

The Rookie

booktownman wrote:

I've just had the same problem - put a new chain on myself after using a chain checker and discovering it was *just* worn.

No, failing at the lower limit is worn out, not just worn!

Ouija

Didn't Parktools change their chain checker in recent years. The one i have measures .75 (time for a new chain) and 1.0 (completely foobar) but newer ones are calibrated as .5 (new chain) and .75 (completely foobared)?

booktownman

The Rookie wrote:

No, failing at the lower limit is worn out, not just worn!

So how are you supposed to know when to change your chain before it screws your cassette?

cooldad

Just ride and change the whole lot every few years.